Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2011 Quick story then my test results. This happened to me on my Arkansas trip but I'll just tell you what happened my this weekend when I left Friday to go see family. I have about a 180 mile trip and I was coming up on one of my typical rest stops. I was slowing down to come into the parking lot and held the clutch once I was going too slow to stay in 2nd gear. The bike just completely died. This happened when leaving Arkansas back in May. I stopped the bike and tried to to start the bike, but it acted as if the battery was dead. Got a guy to push start me and the bike fired right up and held an idle. I rode the rest of the trip all the way to my father's place. Later than evening I got a multimeter and the cooled down battery was showing a healthy 13v. Pulled the plugs on the stator/reg and the female stator plug (output) was showing burnt color on two connectors. Last time I checked this (not long ago), there was just a slight slight hint of tanning. Nothing like the pics that have been posted. Once the bike cooled down, it started right up. This morning before I left to head back home, I warmed the bike up and did the 5k rpm w/ high beams test and the battery was showing a steady 14.5v (idle is 12.xx V). I then mounted my rectifier to the passenger peg arm so if could get air flow on the trip back since it gets so hot you can only leave your hand on it for a little while. I'm sure this helped and with it being only 80F today, I was able to make a pit stop after a constant 3.5 hour ride with the bike being able to start bike up. Just got done testing both stator and rec and here is my findings. Stator: 1. All 3 yellow wires showed no continuity while grounded as FSM states 2. Testing the 3 yellow wires for continuity between each other, FSM states 0.1 - 1.0. All wires showed 0.7 RECTIFIER: (tested wire harness side as FSM stated) 1. Battery charging line -- Red/White (+) and ground (-) -- Both showed battery voltage of 13v - Good there. 2. Charging coil Line -- Yellow and yellow -- ???? There is no yellow wires on the harness side of the rec, unless it's just talking about the stator plug then those all measured 0.7ohms (FSM calls for 0.1 - 1.0 ohms) 3. Ground line -- Green and ground -- "Continuity should exist" -- It does and both greens show 0.7 ohms. I'm going to go ahead and replace both stator and rectifier, but I'm guessing it's the rectifier that's going out? I know I can use an R1 rectifier, but I don't know what year model I should use? Also, what other bikes use a mosfet design and what years should I use? $145 for a new rec is steep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 6, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2011 Maybe your coils are overloading your ECU mate. If you're going to buy a new reg, you should look at the Compu-Fire switch-mode regulator. But in reality what you need right now is a voltmeter so you can monitor the charging system while you ride. It could well be your issue is back at the 30-amp fuse rather than in the charging system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2011 Also forgot to add that the orange ground block is in perfect condition and I've cleaned all grounding wire connections numerous times. I'll check the check the main fuse wiring and starter relay solenoid and wiring for giggles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Pulled the plugs on the stator/reg and the female stator plug (output) was showing burnt color on two connectors. Last time I checked this (not long ago), there was just a slight slight hint of tanning __________________________________________________________________ You have a developing condition in that connector , that needs to be addressed, as long as the battery is charged, you dont need the charging system for a few hours. Okay 75 mile . I dont want to pay your tow bill so 50 mile, and you better have a good battery This may enable you to do further testing , meaning, fully charge the battery disconnect low beams(you have atleast a couple hour, go ride and see if issue is still there, if it is its not the charging system. The VFR will run well on battery power alone , unless you have a weak battery you may have two issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Wasn't this issue resolved by some people hardwiring that plug connector and or installing a computer fan for extra cooling? Please read all of my Disclaimers before proceeding to the next page.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 6, 2011 Should I replace the flywheel with the new stator? I have 52k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted September 7, 2011 Share Posted September 7, 2011 Unless the flywheel is damaged in some way, I see no need to replace it. Can you update your coil on plug thread with the latest info, disregarding the charging issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted September 7, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2011 Should I replace the flywheel with the new stator? I have 52k miles. Flywheels only need replacing if the new stator size is different. They are essentially a bunch of permanent magnets mounted to the inside of a wheel and they don't wear out. Well, technically they DO wear out but we're talking longer than you might actually live and it has nothing to do with how many miles you do. Rotors (and their magnets) can be affected in their strength by sudden impact, radiation, other sources of magnetism, heating beyond the Curie point (differs depending on magnet material but is way above what your motor puts out) and other things that can change the magnetic field strength. So unless you have smashed your bike into a pile of burning radioactive waste, I think you're cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2011 Unless the flywheel is damaged in some way, I see no need to replace it. Can you update your coil on plug thread with the latest info, disregarding the charging issue? Don't have any info to update with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted September 7, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted September 7, 2011 Should I replace the flywheel with the new stator? I have 52k miles. Flywheels only need replacing if the new stator size is different. They are essentially a bunch of permanent magnets mounted to the inside of a wheel and they don't wear out. Well, technically they DO wear out but we're talking longer than you might actually live and it has nothing to do with how many miles you do. Rotors (and their magnets) can be affected in their strength by sudden impact, radiation, other sources of magnetism, heating beyond the Curie point (differs depending on magnet material but is way above what your motor puts out) and other things that can change the magnetic field strength. So unless you have smashed your bike into a pile of burning radioactive waste, I think you're cool. Cool beans. My momma always told me radiation doesn't give you super powers. I've always wanted to try it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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