Compufire R/R

[DaveB]

Thanks for the explanation, I follow now. I am still interested in how they are opening the circuit, as this would generally create arcing (imagine unplugging something while it is in use...you see sparks etc). If this is a long term solution, I can see OEM going that way....with their volume pricing would be very competitive.

When you unplug something you get a dirty noisy connection that makes and breaks many times as the plug is pulled causing sparks to be generated until it is fully disconnected. The regulator works cleanly and electronically by switching thyristors which just break once per cycle, it is similar to a lamp dimmer that works by adjusting the firing angle of a triac without generating sparks.

[maxredline]

A person on another post was asking the question: with the series R/R would it create electrical "noise" for those who are running accessories?

And no I have not taken the plunge though I am interested. The question above would have to be answered first in my case.

[Tightwad]

Thanks for the explanation, I follow now. I am still interested in how they are opening the circuit, as this would generally create arcing (imagine unplugging something while it is in use...you see sparks etc). If this is a long term solution, I can see OEM going that way....with their volume pricing would be very competitive.

When you unplug something you get a dirty noisy connection that makes and breaks many times as the plug is pulled causing sparks to be generated until it is fully disconnected. The regulator works cleanly and electronically by switching thyristors which just break once per cycle, it is similar to a lamp dimmer that works by adjusting the firing angle of a triac without generating sparks.

Thanks for the info.

I had a call from Rick (Rick's Motorsport Electrics) regarding the possibility of going MOSFET on the 90-97 R/R. Unfortunately, this can't be done but of course a MOSFET version could easily be adapted, as many have done (some also relocated it to the front). While I had him on the phone, we discussed the Series R/R. He was aware of it, but said once they found how reliable the MOSFET version was (much less heat, less failure rate, etc), he didn't feel it would be worth it to retool to something more expensive. I haven't seen any MOSFET failures yet.

[Jarvis]

Thanks for the explanation, I follow now. I am still interested in how they are opening the circuit, as this would generally create arcing (imagine unplugging something while it is in use...you see sparks etc). If this is a long term solution, I can see OEM going that way....with their volume pricing would be very competitive.

When you unplug something you get a dirty noisy connection that makes and breaks many times as the plug is pulled causing sparks to be generated until it is fully disconnected. The regulator works cleanly and electronically by switching thyristors which just break once per cycle, it is similar to a lamp dimmer that works by adjusting the firing angle of a triac without generating sparks.

Thanks for the info.

I had a call from Rick (Rick's Motorsport Electrics) regarding the possibility of going MOSFET on the 90-97 R/R. Unfortunately, this can't be done but of course a MOSFET version could easily be adapted, as many have done (some also relocated it to the front). While I had him on the phone, we discussed the Series R/R. He was aware of it, but said once they found how reliable the MOSFET version was (much less heat, less failure rate, etc), he didn't feel it would be worth it to retool to something more expensive. I haven't seen any MOSFET failures yet.

When you say Rick said a MOSFET for a 90-97 R/R can't be done I assume you mean designing and building a plug and play version that would use the existing mouting system and connectors. However, by modifying and/or buying a new harness one should be able to run a FH012 (R1) R/R on a 90-97. Is this correct?

[Tightwad]

Thanks for the explanation, I follow now. I am still interested in how they are opening the circuit, as this would generally create arcing (imagine unplugging something while it is in use...you see sparks etc). If this is a long term solution, I can see OEM going that way....with their volume pricing would be very competitive.

When you unplug something you get a dirty noisy connection that makes and breaks many times as the plug is pulled causing sparks to be generated until it is fully disconnected. The regulator works cleanly and electronically by switching thyristors which just break once per cycle, it is similar to a lamp dimmer that works by adjusting the firing angle of a triac without generating sparks.

Thanks for the info.

I had a call from Rick (Rick's Motorsport Electrics) regarding the possibility of going MOSFET on the 90-97 R/R. Unfortunately, this can't be done but of course a MOSFET version could easily be adapted, as many have done (some also relocated it to the front). While I had him on the phone, we discussed the Series R/R. He was aware of it, but said once they found how reliable the MOSFET version was (much less heat, less failure rate, etc), he didn't feel it would be worth it to retool to something more expensive. I haven't seen any MOSFET failures yet.

When you say Rick said a MOSFET for a 90-97 R/R can't be done I assume you mean designing and building a plug and play version that would use the existing mouting system and connectors. However, by modifying and/or buying a new harness one should be able to run a FH012 (R1) R/R on a 90-97. Is this correct?

Yes, the physical size is a restriction. It is important to note that the Ricks unit is NOT an FH012, but rather their own design. It looks no different from the OEM unit, using the same plugs the 5th and 6th gen does. The 90-97 models could had the original type connection (not a good idea IMO). It isn't hard to change the connections to the newer styles.

[Jarvis]

Yes, the physical size is a restriction. It is important to note that the Ricks unit is NOT an FH012, but rather their own design. It looks no different from the OEM unit, using the same plugs the 5th and 6th gen does. The 90-97 models could had the original type connection (not a good idea IMO). It isn't hard to change the connections to the newer styles.

Ok good. Because it looks like the FH012 will package where the original 90-97 R/R went with a little modification to the mounting. I got your custom built harness so in the next week I should have it installed and on the road.

[kaldek]

A person on another post was asking the question: with the series R/R would it create electrical "noise" for those who are running accessories?

And no I have not taken the plunge though I am interested. The question above would have to be answered first in my case.

Noise can be quashed by using appropriate capacitors designed specifically for filtering. You need good quality ones that can take a lot of heat, but they can remove that rippling effect. The Compufire regulator should have them built in if it's designed well.

What they won't necessarily do is stop the EMI because that's generated by the switching circuitry itself. So you get no electrical noise on your wiring but you still get radiation from the regulator. The only solution is to keep sensitive stuff away from the R/R.

[Tightwad]

A person on another post was asking the question: with the series R/R would it create electrical "noise" for those who are running accessories?

And no I have not taken the plunge though I am interested. The question above would have to be answered first in my case.

Noise can be quashed by using appropriate capacitors designed specifically for filtering. You need good quality ones that can take a lot of heat, but they can remove that rippling effect. The Compufire regulator should have them built in if it's designed well.

What they won't necessarily do is stop the EMI because that's generated by the switching circuitry itself. So you get no electrical noise on your wiring but you still get radiation from the regulator. The only solution is to keep sensitive stuff away from the R/R.

I think the Aluminum case of the R/R will block much of the EMI...at least that is what I was reading about EV Motor Controllers.

[DaveB]

A person on another post was asking the question: with the series R/R would it create electrical "noise" for those who are running accessories?

And no I have not taken the plunge though I am interested. The question above would have to be answered first in my case.

Noise can be quashed by using appropriate capacitors designed specifically for filtering. You need good quality ones that can take a lot of heat, but they can remove that rippling effect. The Compufire regulator should have them built in if it's designed well.

What they won't necessarily do is stop the EMI because that's generated by the switching circuitry itself. So you get no electrical noise on your wiring but you still get radiation from the regulator. The only solution is to keep sensitive stuff away from the R/R.

I think the Aluminum case of the R/R will block much of the EMI...at least that is what I was reading about EV Motor Controllers.

There is just as much switching going on in a conventional shunt regulator. So long as it is well designed the series regulator should be no more noisy than the shunt type.