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Hid Mod


billyjackjimbob

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So HIDs are getting really cheap and ya'll know my luck with head lamps. HIDs are supposed to be longer life and I'm hoping the electronics will cancel any electrical grimlens I either have or have not on my bike. My question is this...

Main lamps are H4s and the single beam HIDs are really cheap. High beams are H7 (right?). So, I'm thinking of changing out both and really light up the night. Since the new digital ballists are plug and play I should be able to simply plug the H4s in and then the H7s in and everything should work as is..... right? I mean but a butt load brighter. Right?

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The day i got my bike ...the first 2 things i changed were...

1) the Headlight to HID

2) new tires..

HID are a good investment.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...c=50499&hl=

Edited by AnikMankar
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Unless you install correct reflector, they will blind the oncoming traffic.

This is the reason why I've never installed them on mine before.

Now it's too late.

However, Jason (tinyminds) said that he used some bracket to make a cut-off and his don't blind?

I don't recall exactly.

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So HIDs are getting really cheap and ya'll know my luck with head lamps. HIDs are supposed to be longer life and I'm hoping the electronics will cancel any electrical grimlens I either have or have not on my bike. My question is this...

Main lamps are H4s and the single beam HIDs are really cheap. High beams are H7 (right?). So, I'm thinking of changing out both and really light up the night. Since the new digital ballists are plug and play I should be able to simply plug the H4s in and then the H7s in and everything should work as is..... right? I mean but a butt load brighter. Right?

Very few people update the hi-beams to HID. The reason is that HID takes several seconds to fully turn on. I've seen 1 bulb set ups with a switch that changes the angle of the bulb (and thus the beam) to simulate hi-beams from HID, but I think that's when you buy a full HID unit including the reflector.

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So HIDs are getting really cheap and ya'll know my luck with head lamps. HIDs are supposed to be longer life and I'm hoping the electronics will cancel any electrical grimlens I either have or have not on my bike. My question is this...

Main lamps are H4s and the single beam HIDs are really cheap. High beams are H7 (right?). So, I'm thinking of changing out both and really light up the night. Since the new digital ballists are plug and play I should be able to simply plug the H4s in and then the H7s in and everything should work as is..... right? I mean but a butt load brighter. Right?

Very few people update the hi-beams to HID. The reason is that HID takes several seconds to fully turn on. I've seen 1 bulb set ups with a switch that changes the angle of the bulb (and thus the beam) to simulate hi-beams from HID, but I think that's when you buy a full HID unit including the reflector.

There are several vendors who offer kits that use one set of bulbs for both low & high beams. most are using magnetic switches to either pull the bulb in & out, or to change the angle of the bulb.

These are meant to be used in applications where the existing bulbs operate in the same fashion.

I updated the bulbs on both bikes to HID as soon as I got them, but on the VFR, like you mentioned, I only did the low beams, as it does not seem necessary to do the high. (just my 2 cents:-)

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Mine is an European version so has both Low and High beam. I have fitted the Philips model which works great. Came with 2 adaptors - one of them is to block the high beam to some extent so it does not bother the upcoming traffic - however not fitted those.

One more advantage of this is also it consumes half the power - i believe its about 35W and also works on lower voltages (7 ~ 12)

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I don't know what the "state of the art" in Chinese HID conversion kits is these days, but it can only get better...

High beams are not suitable for HID, unless they are part of a "bi-xenon" contraption that uses one set of HID capsules for both high and low. You rarely use high beam for a long period of time, and as noted above, turning HIDs on and off drastically shortens the life of the bulb (capsule) and they take a little while to get to full brightness in any case.

The other thing I'm not sure has been adequately addressed in the latest kits is how the HIDs work with US-spec, starter-kill headlight circuits. If your HID low beams are always on, each time you hit the starter button you momentarily kill the HID...(see above re reduced bulb life). I must admit that I have two HID conversion kits installed on two bikes, but they both have headlight switches, so this is not an issue for me. (Only the embarrassment of having twice installed such abominable, half-arsed, bodge-job, wannabe xenons causes me pain...)

Ciao,

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