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Headlight Adaptors


esacfrank

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yes, pretty sure that's the case.

I thought so too. i used them on a 98 and told a friend to by them for his 06. he asked if it was needed, i just assumed (bad word) all vfr/st1100/st1300 headlamp assemblies were cut for only honda bulbs thereby needing the adapters.

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Nope all you have to do is bend one of the tabs.

+1 - No need to buy any adaptors.

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It depends on how important your headlight beam is to you, really. First of all, only US-spec and J-spec Hondas seem to have been saddled with the pseudo-H4 bulbs, so one solution is to get a European (er, not UK, either) headlamp unit and use regular H4s of whatever flavour you fancy. 99.9% of VFR owners won't do that, of course...

Shims do a good job of orienting a normal H4 bulb in a US-spec headlamp housing, but they do so whilst spacing the bulb back by a millimetre or two, which places both filaments in the slightly wrong position relative to the reflector.

Some say the DOT reflector is itself a bad design, so moving the filament back a bit may not really be noticeable?

Fitting the H4 without the shims is just one of those things people do... I think the consensus is that the headlamp housing on the fifth-gen and up have ridges at the right place such that a (mostly) tab-less H4 will stay more or less in the correct position without the use of a shim. The ST1300 is generally put in this category as well. As usual, I am skeptical... :biggrin: Because what little experimentation I've done suggests that this practice is hit-or-miss, as far as achieving the same relative filament positioning as OEM--though I've only examined a US-spec ST1300 headlamp unit. The following photograph (of a US-spec ST1300 headlamp unit) shows that without the bottom tabs, the H4 bulb can be "rocked" a significant amount left and right, so it is possible to install such a bulb in the housing in an incorrect position and still lock the bulb retainer. This is due to the design of the mounting flange and retainer.

gallery_362_402_9923.jpg

Apart from that, without the tabs, the bulb will likely be positioned further in, rather than out (again, by no more than a millimetre or two, but that is a significant amount from a lighting perspective), as it can no longer rest on the bottom tabs, but with the bottom of the remainder of the bulb resting against a part of the mounting flange that is not at the same relative level as the tab "rests". Bob P. used to have a neat illustration of this on his Web site, but I think it's gone--I'm sure I have a copy somewhere; I should upload it someday!

[Found it:]

H4%20TILT%20SMALL.gif

(Current home of this illustration is here.)

Would anyone notice? Does it matter? Hard to say... But at least now you know!

Ciao,

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I have a RWB 2007. One of the first changes I made was to upgrade my lights to an HID kit. I got a normal H4 HID kit, and they fit without any shims. I do not have any "play" or "wobble" I also checked the alignment, and they are spot on.

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Why am I remembering the right bulb (6th gen, 2002) is a 9003, and not an H4? It fit right into mine with not modification needed.

*edit*

I found this on a google search:

"H4 is the designation for a bulb used in motorcycles.

9003 is the designation for an automotive headlight bulb, and thus, subject to regulation under the provisions of FMVSS108.

Physically, most are the same. A true H4 has one of the tabs a bit smaller than the other tab (talking about the bottom tabs). A 9003's tabs are the same size. A true H4 will fit in H4 or 9003 housings. A 9003 won't fit in a true H4 housing. Does it matter? Not really. The only thing different now is price. Go to an Autozone, etc., and the H4 may be a dollar more or less than the same brand 9003. Interestingly, a bulb may have both H4 and 9003 on the base.

The other designation for this bulb is HB2. "

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I installed the auto store (PEP Boys) H-4 headlight bulbs in my '98 VFR. Two of the three tabs do not line up, so I bent them back 90 degrees. They then fit perfectly, aligned perfectly, and are totally secure. Cost was about $13.00 vs. $70.00 or so from Honda. A no brainer.

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When I had a bulb go out on my bike, I almost freaked when I saw the bulb price from Honda. After searching the forums, I bought a package of GE H-4 bulbs at Wal Mart and cut off the bottom tabs with tin snips. The bulb fit just fine, and still has one tab to line it up correctly.

I have one OEM bulb and one GE H-4 bulb in my bike right now, and to be completely honest when looking at my bike head on you cannot see a difference in the light output or pattern. I don't see any reason to spend money on adapters, or on the more expensive Honda bulbs.

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When I had a bulb go out on my bike, I almost freaked when I saw the bulb price from Honda. After searching the forums, I bought a package of GE H-4 bulbs at Wal Mart and cut off the bottom tabs with tin snips. The bulb fit just fine, and still has one tab to line it up correctly.

I have one OEM bulb and one GE H-4 bulb in my bike right now, and to be completely honest when looking at my bike head on you cannot see a difference in the light output or pattern. I don't see any reason to spend money on adapters, or on the more expensive Honda bulbs.

+1

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I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I got some H4 or whatever bulbs for my 2002 and they just dropped right in with no tab bending, shims, or anything.

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I don't remember exactly how I did it, but I got some H4 or whatever bulbs for my 2002 and they just dropped right in with no tab bending, shims, or anything.

Yep, mine too. I'm a little lost in this thread. :huh: From the diagram, it just causes the light to point lower. But I've adjusted those anyway. The high beams are separate lights, so that part of the explanation doesn't matter.

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I found this on a google search:

"H4 is the designation for a bulb used in motorcycles.

9003 is the designation for an automotive headlight bulb, and thus, subject to regulation under the provisions of FMVSS108.

Physically, most are the same. A true H4 has one of the tabs a bit smaller than the other tab (talking about the bottom tabs). A 9003's tabs are the same size. A true H4 will fit in H4 or 9003 housings. A 9003 won't fit in a true H4 housing. Does it matter? Not really. The only thing different now is price. Go to an Autozone, etc., and the H4 may be a dollar more or less than the same brand 9003. Interestingly, a bulb may have both H4 and 9003 on the base.

The other designation for this bulb is HB2. "

(Can't say I've ever heard of H4 bottom tabs being different sizes--they sure don't look it...) In any case, there are (at least) three different H4 bases, designated P43t, PX43t and the infamous PX43t 65-Degree; the "normal" H4 is the first, the Aussies seem to get the second (in 35w/35w configuration) and the US Honda-spec base (usually 45w/45w--but also found in 35w/60w guise in various JDM Hondas, such as the CBR400RR NC29) is the last of these. The 9003 (aka "HB2") is essentially a DOT-spec H4, but this is a normal-style H4 and has nothing to do with the problems US Honda riders have with replacing bulbs.

Here's a picture of the various metal flange-based automotive bulb styles (the "43" part comes from the OD of the flange):

gallery_362_402_1755.gif

The P43t and the PX43t are nearly identical--only the width of the top tab and the position of the tiny central bottom tabs differ--but the PX43t 65-Degree is obviously more different, with the bottom tabs also being placed further apart. I don't know of any manufacturer other than Honda uses that base--it could very well be proprietary, in that sense.

I have a RWB 2007. One of the first changes I made was to upgrade my lights to an HID kit. I got a normal H4 HID kit, and they fit without any shims. I do not have any "play" or "wobble" I also checked the alignment, and they are spot on.
It sounds like the VTECs may not be saddled with the infamous non-standard PX43t 65-Degree H4s? Probably has something to do with having four headlamp reflectors...

(As for HID conversion kits in general, I'm afraid I can only :huh:...)

[Edited to add more information & a piccie]

Ciao,

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