Guest oldgeezer Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Just received my new high-mount Staintune system and began the installation last night. The installation was straightforward and I had no problems untill the rear connection, which has a pre-threaded bracket welded to the rear of the pipe. A separate T-chaped s.s. bracket with three holes came with the pipe (no bolts) presumably to anchor the rear of the muffler. My question is where do I install this bracket? Do I need to remove the rear seat cowling plastic? Do I need to drill holes in the subframe to attach it or does it attach to the underseat plastic? The rear bracket has the same threads as the front bracket (it uses the OEM muffler bolt), but no other mounting hardware came with the order. If someone could give me some advice on completing the last step of the installation, I'd be greatful. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Just received my new high-mount Staintune system and began the installationlast night. The installation was straightforward and I had no problems untill the rear connection, which has a pre-threaded bracket welded to the rear of the pipe. A separate T-chaped s.s. bracket with three holes came with the pipe (no bolts) presumably to anchor the rear of the muffler. My question is where do I install this bracket? Do I need to remove the rear seat cowling plastic? Do I need to drill holes in the subframe to attach it or does it attach to the underseat plastic? The bracket has the same threads as the front bracket (which uses the original muffler bolt), but no other mounting hardware came with the order. If someone could give me some advice on completing the last step of the installation, I'd be greatful. I've already started the bike and it sounds awesome, so I'm anxious to wrap things up. Thanks in advance. Old, I'm at work right now, so I'm going from memory. IIRC, the 'tune has three mounting points. Alignment is difficult. I chose to use the rear mount which bolted to the rear passenger handle pads - using the bolts which connect the handle (hence no Staintune bolts). {There should be an equivalent spacer for the left hand side handle in the box somewhere. It evens out the left & right handle heights.} Others that I ride with simply ignored the rear mount and use only the OEM mount at the passanger foot rest. On my bike, it was a simple install - no need to cut anything, no drilling. I did remove the rear plastic to make things easier, but I do that all of the time and can't remember if it was REALLY necessary. I'll have a look again when I get home. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 IIRC, the 'tune has three mounting points. Alignment is difficult. I chose to use the rear mount which bolted to the rear passenger handle pads - using the bolts which connect the handle (hence no Staintune bolts). {There should be an equivalent spacer for the left hand side handle in the box somewhere. It evens out the left & right handle heights.} Others that I ride with simply ignored the rear mount and use only the OEM mount at the passanger foot rest.On my bike, it was a simple install - no need to cut anything, no drilling. I did remove the rear plastic to make things easier, but I do that all of the time and can't remember if it was REALLY necessary. Ahhhhhhh, now I see the light. So the two holes in the top part of the separate bracket align with, and share, the passenger handle mounting bolts? It was a mystery to me because there were NO instructions regarding this last step - I'd never have guessed the bracket would mount with the passenger handle bolts. Now it all makes sense. The can seems pretty rigid with just the forward bracket bolted tight, but there's alot of cantilever there, so I'd prefer mounting the pipe at both ends (like you did) to eliminate metal fatigue from flex or vibration. One last question: What type bolt did you use to anchor the lower end of the bracket to the can's rear (pre-threaded) bracket? Obviously it's metric, but I'm not sure on the thread specs. I may have to scrounge around for something suitable. Thanks - you've solved my problem. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 There should've been a bolt for that - are you sure it's not already in the nut it screws into? (MInd you - I'm only guessing, as my Satantune was installed on the bike when I bought it. When I installed the Ventura packrack, which uses the same mounting method, it put the rear mounting hole out of alignment, so I had to drill another hole in the rear bracket of the Satantune and put another nut on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 There should've been a bolt for that - are you sure it's not already in the nut it screws into? (MInd you - I'm only guessing, as my Satantune was installed on the bike when I bought it. When I installed the Ventura packrack, which uses the same mounting method, it put the rear mounting hole out of alignment, so I had to drill another hole in the rear bracket of the Satantune and put another nut on. Nope, no extra bolt - nor was one already screwed into the rear nut (which would've been convenient!). I haven't installed the bracket yet, so whether or not the holes align remains to be seen. With my luck I'll probably wind up having to drill another hole like you. Now I understand why it's called a Satantune. :biggrin: Thanks for the information, mate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted August 21, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2009 There should've been a bolt for that - are you sure it's not already in the nut it screws into? (MInd you - I'm only guessing, as my Satantune was installed on the bike when I bought it. When I installed the Ventura packrack, which uses the same mounting method, it put the rear mounting hole out of alignment, so I had to drill another hole in the rear bracket of the Satantune and put another nut on. Nope, no extra bolt - nor was one already screwed into the rear nut (which would've been convenient!). I haven't installed the bracket yet, so whether or not the holes align remains to be seen. With my luck I'll probably wind up having to drill another hole like you. Now I understand why it's called a Satantune. :biggrin: Thanks for the information, mate. I got mine used, and it fits pretty well. Just some minor pressure to line everything up. I used both mounting points, and briefly had the pass pegs off so just used the top rear mount. Worked fine like that, but I didn't like the exposed mounting tab on the muffler. I've had the grab handles on, but didn't get the spacer, and they don't look way different. Normally run without them, though. No spud in mine, for sure! :laugh: Louder than the low mount, but perhaps thats due to the fact that it is closer to my head now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 I got mine used, and it fits pretty well. Just some minor pressure to line everything up. I used both mounting points, and briefly had the pass pegs off so just used the top rear mount. Worked fine like that, but I didn't like the exposed mounting tab on the muffler. I've had the grab handles on, but didn't get the spacer, and they don't look way different. Normally run without them, though. No spud in mine, for sure! :biggrin: Louder than the low mount, but perhaps thats due to the fact that it is closer to my head now! Thanks for your feedback, Kev. I'm anxious to wrap this project up so I can be riding this weekend instead of jerking wrenches. I haven't tried it with the spud removed, but as long as it's not as loud as the previous D&D, I'll be happy. To me it doesn't sound too bad with the spud in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted August 21, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2009 I got mine used, and it fits pretty well. Just some minor pressure to line everything up. I used both mounting points, and briefly had the pass pegs off so just used the top rear mount. Worked fine like that, but I didn't like the exposed mounting tab on the muffler. I've had the grab handles on, but didn't get the spacer, and they don't look way different. Normally run without them, though. No spud in mine, for sure! :biggrin: Louder than the low mount, but perhaps thats due to the fact that it is closer to my head now! Thanks for your feedback, Kev. I'm anxious to wrap this project up so I can be riding this weekend instead of jerking wrenches. I haven't tried it with the spud removed, but as long as it's not as loud as the previous D&D, I'll be happy. To me it doesn't sound too bad with the spud in place. I've not heard a nice sounding D&D on any bike, but then that's my own opinion! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I haven't tried it with the spud removed, but as long as it's not as loud as the previousD&D, I'll be happy. To me it doesn't sound too bad with the spud in place. With the spud in, it's similar in sound to the OEM muffler, but looks more betterer. I've two spuds for mine - the one I run almsot all the time has the 'tail' of the spud cut off flush with the weld. It makes it a little louder, but not obnoxiously so. With no spud, the noise gets on my nerves within a couple of days (or in less time if I go on a longish ride). It's not an unpleasant sound (although a tad raspy), but way too loud. I rarely use the standard ("stealth mode") spud - only when I take the bike for it's six-monthly Warrant of Fitness checkup, and occasionally when I want it quieter. Well... as quiet as it can be with around 75dBa of cam gear and other engine noises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer SAFE-T Posted August 22, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2009 I've never used the rear mounting point on my Staintune and it's been on the bike like that for years. I also cut the tail of the restrictor off as I found the cam gear noise overwhelming without some balance from the muffler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR Capt.Bob Posted August 22, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2009 I've had my Staintune Hi mount for a year now and love the sound over the last aftermarket pipe I owned. Mine has begun to crack on the can near the lower bottom of the can. I had some back firing issues with the spud installed it may have overtaxed the metal. No spud IMO. Didn't even know about the install options. Bought mine second hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I've never used the rear mounting point on my Staintune and it's been on the bike like that for years. I also cut the tail of the restrictor off as I found the cam gear noise overwhelming without some balance from the muffler. I've run mine without the rear mounting point for a while - seems sturdy enough. But I think eventually you might run the risk of cracking the weld between the mid pipe and can. I know what you mean about the cam gear noise - it drove me nuts for the first year or 18 months. I can see why Honda ditched it - sooner or later they would've found it impossible to meet noise restrictions. The middle-positioned cam drive on the earlier bikes was much quieter, just enough whine to add character. However, it added some width to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 OG if possible can you send me a pic of the bracket you are talking about. I have the same pipe I got used but don't have a bracket at all for mounting and was just getting started on the project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forum CEO HispanicSlammer Posted August 23, 2009 Forum CEO Share Posted August 23, 2009 Installation is much easier if you remove the rear fairing first, then you can hang the t-bracket rather easily. getting the holes to line up was a pain for me, I had to bend the bracket a bit to get the holes to line up. If you decide to get a pc3 usb for the bike I uploaded a pc3-usb map for the staintune 5th gen in the downloads section. It is basically the pc2 map converted to a pc3 file .map to .dmj file conversion. I just smoothed in the extra data points and averaged in the blank data. So far its been rather smooth, but I am getting a bit of back fire too, so might need to add a little gas with off throttle to keep the back fireing in control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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