KanadianKen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I was wondering if the way I have my connection point for the battery tender as it is wired to my bike - is wrong?? Here's the deal..... I have a Blue Sea fuse block device - and it is connected to the positive and negative terminals to power it up. Connected to the Blue Sea fuseblock - is 1) Stebel horn setup (relay) 2) power commander III 3) Zumo hardwiring to power the cradle for the 550 4) the positive and negative leads for the quick connect to the Battery tender. By any chance - could any of the aforementioned devices be drawing power that is causing my battery to drain out more than the tender can refill? I yanked the battery today and have had it on the tender for about 8 hours. It seems to be full of more volts now than when it was in the bike. Thus - my question....... Are any of the devices I have connected to the Fuseblock draining the battery? thanks for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 attach the leads straight to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 My Yuasa hasnt ran for 5 or 6 hours, but if I go check it right now it should be about 13.1 volt If your seeing below 13 volt on a new yuasa , after several hours of sitting, I think you have some drain, they hold very good voltage when new. But before freaking, go ride tomorrow, come in and after the bike sits for several hours, check the voltage, if above 13volt, sounds good, if below you might look for some drain somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 My yuasa sits at 12.7 or so.... If the Blue Sea is relayed then your battery tender can't charge with they key off....other than that, it would be the same as connected to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 Blue Sea is connected directly to the + and - terminals of the battery. It is NOT relayed. I'm wondering if the PC III is draining volts? THe Zumo cradle is empty until I ride and drop the 550 onto it. As for the Stebel Air Horn, it is relayed onto the Blue Sea - and of course is not active unless the horn button is nailed. :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I would think the PC III should be relayed. You did your own Monitor wire fix, right? Did you relay that? If not, and your R/R connects directly to battery, that is where I would look for a draw. You can check for amp draw by disconnecting the negative terminal, and connecting your meter inline...of course while the key is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Every Tender I've put on, either for myself or others, I'be mounted the Pigtails Directly on the battery, too. Would be my suggestion. I think I might have seen on another thread that you have a Tender Junior...? If so, this Does work fine, but had no indicator lights as on the Tender Plus, and charges @ 0.9amps vs 1.25a on the Plus. In my experience, the Junior takes about that long - 8 hrs, or even over night - to do the job properly. It indeed works fine, but those reasons are why I like the Plus, myself. I think Tightwad's suggestion re. draw around one of the Relays is a good one. I had a friend's car with similar drain-down issues, and it turned out to be a relay (that Chrysler had just swapped with another Similar one rather than Changing the damned thing) that turned out to be the culprit. Hope this helps, and good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 My yuasa sits at 12.7 or so....If the Blue Sea is relayed then your battery tender can't charge with they key off....other than that, it would be the same as connected to the battery. Thats about where my old battery would hold when it started getting weak, when it was new it would hold over 13, atleast for several hours after running. sitting in 150 degree garage heat over last summer didnt help it much. Present battery, was ran today and sitting , 7 hours at still rest. Still reads 13.09 volt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 My yuasa sits at 12.7 or so....If the Blue Sea is relayed then your battery tender can't charge with they key off....other than that, it would be the same as connected to the battery. Thats about where my old battery would hold when it started getting weak, when it was new it would hold over 13, atleast for several hours after running. sitting in 150 degree garage heat over last summer didnt help it much. Present battery, was ran today and sitting , 7 hours at still rest. Still reads 13.09 volt My battery has held the same voltage from new, which was <6 months ago. From Automotive classes I learned that each cell is 2.1 volts, so 12.6 should be the magical number. Joshua Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Are you running a Generic battery? Nope I see it was a yuasa I noticed around 45,000 mile my Original battery wouldnt even charge or hold 13 volt anymore, about 12.7volt, leave the lights on for 2 or 3 minutes and not enough juice to even turn the motor over. I dont know why the difference , but I havent had any of the electrical issues, and still completely stock wiring setup 56,000+ mile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 I bought a generic battery today - "Same stats as the YUASA YTZ14S" but about 1/3 the price. it was about $100 with tax. Brand name is "Power Pack. I know - you get what you pay for - but money is tight and if I get 2 years out of this one - I'll be ok with that. THe shop tested the suspect battery and he said it was toast. I'll rewire my battery tender so that its direct to the posts - and not running through the fuseblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 24, 2009 Share Posted March 24, 2009 "Same stats as the YUASA YTZ14S" but about 1/3 the price. I'll rewire my battery tender so that its direct to the posts - and not running through the fuseblock. I wouldn't worry about the Generic thing, but suggest you be aware of the Size - try to make sure the 14S that you bought has the same dimensions as the 12S: 6" L x 3 7/16" W x 4 3/8" H Some that I've looked at (Yes, I'm in the market for one, too) have the Same dimensions, some have Different dimensions. Also, the 14S was intended for the ST-1300 and has slightly "beefier" stats: a touch more Amps/hr and C.C.A.'s (Cold Cranking Amps). I've found one (a 12S generic) with even More C.C.A.'s than the 14S usual (250 vs 230, 12S @210), and the price is good, too. They give a 1 yr. warranty, so I'm with Ken - 2 yrs. would be Ok. Good idea to re-set your Tender wires, too. Good Luck, Ken! :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer Madness Posted March 25, 2009 Share Posted March 25, 2009 I personally suggest that weather permitting, you and I and anyone else interested, show up at the Icehouse this weekend for a battery charger clinic. Then, once we try their 'generic' beer, we mosey on up Hwy #6 north for a tour of the Sleeman Factory... It's the only way you can really draw a correct and accurate comparison. :cool: Greg :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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