Guest eleman Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I know that some guys were having really good luck switching to a GSXR R/R in the past. I don't remember which R/R they were using. Was it the 01-03 range and does it matter if it comes from a 600 or 1000? All help appreciated. Thanks, eleman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Foe from Buffalo Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I would also like to know which years and a part # or #'s if different ones can be used. Also would like to know if they are really any better then the new style RR's Honda has come out with to replace the original RR's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted February 13, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2009 I see you got a 4th GEN too. Mine's a '97. I got a Suzuki 750 5 lead R/R from SunCoast Cycles on eBay. It basically looked like new when I got it. It's a perfect fit where the stock one goes, depending how you mount it, it looks factory. Think I paid 20 bucks for it. Some other things I did are a combination of the HUNDREDS of posts on different sites. I think to fix the VFRs shoddy electrics it's an all or nothing procedure. If you fix one thing, the next weak spot gets overloaded. When I mounted it I traced the base of the R/R on to the metal plate on the frame and removed all the paint, and used a very thin coat of thermal paste between the R/R and the frame. I also did the computer fan addition (It gets hot in Albuquerque.) :beer: Ran heavier wires all the way from the stator to the R/R (soldered connection) eliminating the connector on the right side of the engine. Ran a MUCH heavier negative wire directly to the frame ground on the right side of the bike. Used a longer, copper plated bolt on the ground to enhance the connection. Ran a MUCH heavier wire with a 20 amp in-line fuse directly to the positive terminal on the battery. Ran a MUCH heavier wire from the battery negative terminal to the same right side of the bike frame ground. Important to replace the stock 30 amp fuse with a 20 to prevent a short from frying the wiring harness, depending where/if it happens. ALL splices were soldered and sealed with heat shrink tubing. ALL connections were treated with CAIG De-Oxit then Pro Gold. Don't use the spray, use the liquid or gel w/ Q-Tips. This took a relaxing weekend and was well worth it. All voltages are within spec, R/R is just "very warm' to the touch- even after a 25 mile stop and go commute in 95-100 degree temps. I keep the battery on a battery tender hooked up through a lamp timer-it's only on for a couple hours a day. Works great. (Yeah, yeah, I know, overkill) :fing02: Have fun, you're on the right track. I know that some guys were having really good luck switching to a GSXR R/R in the past. I don't remember which R/R they were using. Was it the 01-03 range and does it matter if it comes from a 600 or 1000? All help appreciated. Thanks, eleman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I've posted this before but damn if I can find it. Here's copy/paste of my gsxr r/r mod from 2004 on my former superhawk. It uses the exact same lame oem r/r as the 3/4 gens VFR's. It was still running strong 3 years later when I sold the bike. Best $9.99 plus shipping I think I've ever spent. :fing02: HTH +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Having suffered R/R failures on both a cbr and a vfr, I'm no stranger to the achilles heel of 90's era hondas. So when my used 98 VTR SuperHawk started having electrical "issues" (does anyone else smell rotten eggs?), I knew the first place to look. Sure enough, the r/r was hotter than hell and the connector was burnt/fused. 18V at the battery at idle!!! Crap. What to do, shell out another $135+ for the "new/improved" version or find a cheaper used original one? I then found out that some guys have had real good luck with an (ahemm) Suzuki GSXR model. I picked up a used 5 wire unite on on ebay real cheap. Its heavily finned, bigger, and works like a champ: 14.2V after start up and then settles to 13.8-14.0V after topping off the battery. The connectors are, of course, different so you will have to bypass the honda connector. Mine was burned out anyway and some people say the plug is part of the problem since the connections can corrode and build up resistance. It's such a problem that Honda even began selling a new connector kit. I don't know if they are still available but, again, it won't fit the gixxer r/r anyhow. IMG_3723.jpg IMG_3727.jpg Here it is mounted up. I had to trim the upper fin(s) to clear the superhawk rear cowl and could only use one bolt in the stock locations. You can drill/tap two if you want. The three yellow honda wires go to the the three gsxr black wires. It doesn't matter which goes to which just that the three yellows go to the three black. The honda red wire goes to the gsxr black with red stripe wire and the honda green wire goes to the gsxr black with white stripe wire. Done. IMG_3720.jpg IMG_3718.jpg I added a voltmeter to monitor it. It's been a year and about 8,000 miles of everything from stop/go city to interstate droning to rippin' it up the twisties and it has performed admirably. YMMV! Other guys have posted positive results using Yamaha R1 units too. I went back and found a thread which covered it. Thanks Fotomoto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted February 13, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2009 I see you got a 4th GEN too. Mine's a '97. I got a Suzuki 750 5 lead R/R from SunCoast Cycles on eBay. I've posted my positive experience using the gixxer r/r many times. I first tried it on my superhawk and it was still running great 4 years later the last I heard; pretty good return for $9.99 plus shipping I paid for a used one on ebay. :beer: I used a 5 wire unit from a 2000 model. I forget the size (maybe 600) but I don't think it really matters. IMG_3720.jpg My wrecked second 4th gen r/r was DOA so I again trolled ebay and this time picked up a newer 7 wire gixxer 600 unit which is physically smaller. Since none are plug and play and thus have to bypass the harness connector, like rangemaster, I decided to beef up the stator wires and use new, larger wires from the r/r to the main switch and ground. The extra two wires are I ran to a ground and the positive battery terminal. Since I wasn't constrained by the factory wiring harness connector location, I moved the r/r up to the bottom side of the triple tree for MUCHO airflow. I don't think the older, larger 5 wire unit would fit. I also installed a voltmeter (highly recommended) and it runs a consistent 14+ volts for the past 2 years. I "splurged" and paid $19.99 plus shipping for this one. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted February 13, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 13, 2009 I went back and found a thread which covered it. Thanks Fotomoto Opps, I couldn't find it. :beer: :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 As mentioned...size doesn't matter (bike size) as much as the cooling configuration seems to. Often the problem is the wire size not allowing the R/R to ground well, which in turns causes it to heat up. A new 98-99 model R/R from a VFR would be just fine on the 4th gen, if you wanted to use the larger cooling area. Sales on the VFRness for the 90-97 bikes have been up as well...so far good luck from those who used it to beef up their wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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