Member Contributer Rustbucket Posted June 1, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted June 1, 2008 This has probably been asked, so I apologize in advance, buuut... I went out for a ride last weekend, and after a coffee break, the bike wouldn't turn over. Got it bump started (push to the most uphill corner of the parking lot, push push push vroom). Made it home, checked the following: Battery voltage when I got home - 11.9V Battery voltage after being on the tender overnight: 12.7v Voltage at idle - 13.1v Voltage at 5k rpm - 12.7v Stator wires: .1ohm each. Checked all the grounds as well. The connectors for the reg/rec were a little toasted, but not too bad. I've ordered Tightwad's harness, and picked up a reg/rec from a '97 Suzuki TL1000, which turned out to be exactly the same as the VFR one, except that I had to extend the wires a few inches. Finally got it on today, hit all the connections with contact cleaner, dialectric grease in all the connectors - fired it up.. Battery voltage at idle - 14.1v (turned on the high beams, no sag in voltage. minimal sag when starting the bike) Battery voltage at 5k rpm - 13.2v Tested all the grounds and stator wires again, same values... Any suggestions on what this might be? I'm heading out for dinner, but I'm going to double check everything when I get home, and probably pull the stator cover to see what I can see... The worst thing about this situation: I'm out of beer! I'm not sure I'll be able to keep working! :pissed: :fing02: :beer: :beer: I miss my VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Adam30 Posted June 2, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2008 Im not sure what that harness all includes, but my recent charging system issues resulted in that 3p connector from the stator to regulator being melted. Just to cover everything, i decided to just replace the RR, stator, and the connector was cut out and I soldered the 3 wires together, heat shrinked them and electrical taped them. My voltage was then about 14.0 at idle but lower with everything on, which i felt was ok after it warmed up. The high beams draw more than I thought. But either way, i just got back from a 3600 mile ride yesterday with no issues. I do make an effort to switch the high beams off now when idling for long periods of time after seeing what they draw from the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rustbucket Posted June 2, 2008 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2008 Im not sure what that harness all includes, but my recent charging system issues resulted in that 3p connector from the stator to regulator being melted. Just to cover everything, i decided to just replace the RR, stator, and the connector was cut out and I soldered the 3 wires together, heat shrinked them and electrical taped them. My voltage was then about 14.0 at idle but lower with everything on, which i felt was ok after it warmed up. The high beams draw more than I thought. But either way, i just got back from a 3600 mile ride yesterday with no issues. I do make an effort to switch the high beams off now when idling for long periods of time after seeing what they draw from the system. I thought about bypassing the connector but checked resistance on it after I cleaned everything up so wasn't showing anything into whatever significant digits my crappy multimeter can report. After the bike warmed up, the regulator got really hot, and the connectors seemed warm but I couldn't tell if that was just proximity to other hot things. The thing that's really baffling me is that the voltage drops when I rev it - 14.0v is fine at idle, but where does it go when I add RPM's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer vfrcapn Posted June 2, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2008 The thing that's really baffling me is that the voltage drops when I rev it - 14.0v is fine at idle, but where does it go when I add RPM's? I think that's ok, voltage may be higher at idle. Your figures above sound good, sounds like you fixed it. Is it not charging the battery still? Have you gone through the Electrosport fault guide, http://www.electrosport.com/technical-reso...nding-guide.php First step there says your good to go? :pissed: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beck Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 The thing that's really baffling me is that the voltage drops when I rev it - 14.0v is fine at idle, but where does it go when I add RPM's? I think that's ok, voltage may be higher at idle. Your figures above sound good, sounds like you fixed it. Is it not charging the battery still? Have you gone through the Electrosport fault guide, http://www.electrosport.com/technical-reso...nding-guide.php First step there says your good to go? :pissed: It goes to the coils. More revs = more sparks = more juice to the spark plugs. I think as long as the regulator stabilizes the voltage to a level that charges the battery, it's basically working. My cruising voltage (@5500RPM) results in a reading of 12.8 to 13.4Volts. It's been like that for years now and I never had any problems.....yet (knock on wood!) Beck 95 VFR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rustbucket Posted June 2, 2008 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 2, 2008 Huh - I hadn't thought of that. A buddy proposed a bad coil when I was chatting with him last night, but I've never run into that issue so I don't know the symptoms. Bike is running well though... I'll spend a little more time poking around with the multimeter and take it for a ride tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rustbucket Posted June 15, 2008 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2008 Update: Received and installed the VFRness from Tightwad, and everything is looking good. I'm at 13.5 at idle, over 14 throughout from 1500-6000 rpm. I also got the upgraded R/R from him but haven't installed it (need longer bolts). I'm planning to throw that one on and keep the TL1000 R/R in a saddlebag as a spare for trips. Tightwad - you the man! Any time you're in CT, :blush: is on me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V44me Posted June 15, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2008 Battery voltage at idle - 14.1v (turned on the high beams, no sag in voltage. minimal sag when starting the bike)Battery voltage at 5k rpm - 13.2v Tested all the grounds and stator wires again, same values... My '99 does this exact same thing, voltage wise. Checked and greased all connectors/grounds. R/R was replaced with the updated OEM a year ago. I keep my battery maintained at ~13.3V Was thinking about getting Tightwad's VFRness. This settles it ! Thanks Rustbucket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted June 15, 2008 Share Posted June 15, 2008 your post isnt showing shorted stator test, this entails setting your ohms on the highest scale. all the yellow wires to frame should have no continuity at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rustbucket Posted June 15, 2008 Author Member Contributer Share Posted June 15, 2008 your post isnt showing shorted stator test, this entails setting your ohms on the highest scale. all the yellow wires to frame should have no continuity at all. Sorry I forgot to post that. No continuity to ground on any of the stator poles. :blush: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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