Elka Rear Shock Sag Adjustment

[NVR2L8]

Even though I've had my Elka rear shock for a while now, I'm just now getting around to setting the sag. I know that might sound lame, but for the most part I liked the settings right out of the box, but having said that even from the start I could "feel" the preload was a little light so today I decided to make time to set it to around 32-35mm. Anyway, even though I cranked the remote adjuster almost to the point of being fully in, the best I can get is about 49mm. So I figured I would set the remote adjuster to the halfway point and then crank down the preload ring until I was at 35mm or so. The problem is that I can't see the set screw that Elka says must be loosened before turning the ring. Does anyone who participated in the group buy know if the shock for a 6th Gen ABS model has this set screw, can the preload even be adjusted with the ring, or for an ABS model is preload determined by the remote adjuster like it was on the stock shock? Just thought I would ask before calling Elka tomorrow...

[Guest]

My bike doesnt have the ABS but if the shock is the same as mine with the hydraulic preload it does not have a set screw and cannot be adjusted on the bike. The hose and linkage will not turn all the way around while on the bike. At least I could not find a way. Find out in millimeters how far up or down you need for correct sag, then remove shock and put it in a vice (top or bottom bracket, cant remember which right off the bat) then use your wrench from ELKA to turn the whole hydraulic adjuster up or down the amount you measured previously. Reinstall and try resetting your sag. I had to do this twice to get it exactly where I wanted but it was worth it in the handling afterward. Good luck and have fun.

[Darth Bling]

The remote preload adjuster only adjusts the preload a total of 10mm. So, you'll probably want to move the preload ring on the shock at least 10mm using the tool Elka supplied with the shock.

Depending on what your sag measurement is with the preload back all the way down, you can probably figure out how much to move the preload ring on the shock.

[enzed_viffer]

Interesting.

My preload was Eggs Zachary right, straight out of the box, with no adjustment required.

I'm actually glad now that I didn't opt for the hydraulic preload. The preload is SO easy to adjust compared to the stock Showa. And if it adjusts it only 10mm anyway, then it seems to me it's a waste of time.

Funny, I was just reading about adjusting preload on the equivalent Ohlins: 10 clicks for every 1mm of adjustment. The poor guy that was enquiring about it was cranking away at the preload knob and not seeing any change, so he thought it was broken.

[NVR2L8]

I didn't know that the remote adjuster only provides a maximum of 10mm of preload adjustment...that's why I wasn't seeing much of a change. Anyone know how many total clicks is takes to get the full 10mm?

BTW, when checking the rear sag I use a method similar to how H.S. does it in his "how to" guide. I found a wooden dowel and steel rod at Home Depot, and the dowel is a perfect fit into the rear wheel hole, but the 6th Gen doesn't have the helmet lock so there isn't anywhere to secure the steel rod. What I ended up doing is to make sure the steel rod is up enough so that it contacts the top area inside the rear cowl, and then I duct tape the rod to the side of my left Staintune muffler. The duct tape might sound like a funky way to do it, but in actuality the rod is held pretty rigid and I don't think I get more than 1-2mm of up/down movement. Anyway, I mention this because when the bike is on the center stand I make a mark on the rod where it protrudes out of the wooden dowel, and then when the bike is off the stand I sit on the bike to get the sag. Then put the bike back on the center stand and measure from the mark to the bottom of the zip tie to get my sag measurement...so I am fairly certain the 49mm measurement I got earlier today is pretty accurate. And in my opinion, I think this method is more accurate than having someone measure two points using a tape.

[Guest]

On mine it takes 45 or 46 clicks (sorry its been awhile) from one end to the other.

[Darth Bling]

I didn't know that the remote adjuster only provides a maximum of 10mm of preload adjustment...that's why I wasn't seeing much of a change. Anyone know how many total clicks is takes to get the full 10mm?

Should be about 50 clicks. If your preload adjuster isn't completely full, the first few clicks won't do anything.

Depending on the spring rate, 10 mm of preload can change your sag a little bit to a whole lot. Here a good article talking about spring rates and preload: http://www.sportrider.com/...html.

[Guest]

I didn't know that the remote adjuster only provides a maximum of 10mm of preload adjustment...that's why I wasn't seeing much of a change. Anyone know how many total clicks is takes to get the full 10mm?

The preload device moves 10mm, but the ratio is 2.2:1, therefore by moving the preload ring down 10mm, you are actually getting a total of 22mm of sag.

I just thought I should clarify.

Regards,

John

[mechdziner714]

I didn't know that the remote adjuster only provides a maximum of 10mm of preload adjustment...that's why I wasn't seeing much of a change. Anyone know how many total clicks is takes to get the full 10mm?

The preload device moves 10mm, but the ratio is 2.2:1, therefore by moving the preload ring down 10mm, you are actually getting a total of 22mm of sag.

I just thought I should clarify.

Regards,

John

John,

Whats the dealio on the set screw. Others say they cant find theirs, mine has one in one of the recesses on the adjuster ring. If I tighten it, looks loke it will booger the threads for the adj ring. Do I really need to tighten it or is it just for show? If so how much?

Stephen