klein Posted March 10, 2007 Share Posted March 10, 2007 I have instald a Pro Oiler an Y2K mirors on my bike Some other pics of my RC36II Pro Oiler Oil Pump Electric fits under this Oil can Fits great And the control pannel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest haniffnz15 Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Very nice DIY pro oiler u have. Can u teach me how axactly how to do it. Where can i have the same mirrow as ur's. how much it cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Installation of a pro-oiler is pretty straightforward, and the kit comes with an extensive manual and a separate sheet with tips on installing it on a VFR. I made a (alu) sheetmetal bracket to hold the oil reservoir, and riveted it to the subframe. There is just enough clearance between the reservoir and the fairing to unscrew the cap from the reservoir. The kit comes with a lot of 3M Dual Lock to attach the parts to the bike, but for the oil can I didn't like the idea of it sitting there above my rear tire, held to the subframe with Dual Lock. Dual Lock itself is very strong but I have doubts about how well it sticks to the plastic bottle, especially because it can get pretty hot behind the fairing. Anyway, here's a pic of the bracket: On a 3rd gen. you need the reed switch (later gen. viffers use the electronic speed signal) which comes with a bracket for easy installation on you front brake caliper. In the pic you see the little magnet (in the head of the allen bolt of the rotor) that actuates the reed switch. The magnet is strong enough to stick to the bolt without using some kind of glue. You'll need another magnet to get it out of the allen bolt (any magnet will do). in case you have to replace your rotors. If all of your riding is done when the sun is shining and the roads are clean, you can put the controller out of sight/reach, e.g. under the seat. If not you can put the controller on the triple clamp, like klein did, or on the top fairing like shown in the following pic. Here I used the 3M Dual Lock. I have put the pump and the junction box under the seat as shown in the next picture. The junction box is to where you connect all of the electric wires (pump, controller, reed switch and power). Again I used the Dual Lock for the junction box and pump. Electric power to feed the system is taken from the rear lights. Inside view of the junction box. The oil line runs along the rear brake line using some of the supplied tiewraps. The nozzle is like in the picture you see in kleins post. You may need to make some minor alterations to the nozzle so it just touches the rear sprocket. Again this straightforward and explained in the manual. When you order a Pro-Oiler, be clear what gen (90-93 = 3rd gen) VFR you have so you'll get the reed switch with special mounting bracket, and the right bracket for the nozzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted March 14, 2007 Share Posted March 14, 2007 Nicely done! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Birdman Posted April 12, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 12, 2007 Dandy little product. I imagine this is especially useful on a long trip in poor conditions, like dust or rain. Thanks for the nice writeups, Klein and V4Rosso Is there ever any danger in over-lubing a chain, using the oiler or otherwise? Seems like the more, the merrier to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted April 12, 2007 Share Posted April 12, 2007 Seems like the more, the merrier to me. No, excess oil will just fling off, making a mess of the rear rim, SSSA and chainguard. The trick is to run it as lean as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted April 30, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted April 30, 2007 Sorry, I'm a newbie. Why would you want to install an oiler for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEBSPEED Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 Wow, that's a sweet example of a '97 you have there!! Good luck keeping it that clean with the oiler! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer oyama Posted May 1, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 1, 2007 Sorry, I'm a newbie. Why would you want to install an oiler for? To keep the chain lubricated. Hence, extending the chain's life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted May 1, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 1, 2007 Sorry, I'm a newbie. Why would you want to install an oiler for? To keep the chain lubricated. Hence, extending the chain's life. I understand that, but is it really that hard to get off your bike and lube it yourself? I could see it being useful if your going across country. Also, is the oil even gonna hit the O-rings on the chain? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted May 1, 2007 Share Posted May 1, 2007 That's what most people that have a pro-oiler will tell you, that it is for reduced wear of the chain and the chain hardly needs maintenance 'cause it is always perfectly lubed, even when riding in the rain. But the real story behind the PO, the users want to keep secret from the general public, is all about rear wheel brake horse power :pissed: Ever noticed that the can with chain lubricant says that you have to lube your chain after riding when it's still warm? Ever wondered why the chain get's warm? Because of friction :beer: And friction means loss of power, and who wants that? :joystick: Those chain lubricant seller b@strds make you believe that a warm chain is a good thing as it "absorbs" the lubricant better :salesman: Sure... My chain gets a drop of warm oil every four miles and stays nice & cool (and well lubricated) with minimum loss of powerrrrr. :pissed: :blink: Also, is the oil even gonna hit the O-rings on the chain? That's what it is designed to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Ranger77 Posted May 1, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted May 1, 2007 I dont want to hijack this thread but I read in the manual that you need to lube the chain with 80-90w only. I dont see how that would stay on the chain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Well, it doesn't. In fact it isn't supposed to stay on the chain (for long) :D Chain oilers are a total loss system: the oil lubes the o-rings and oil and dirt flings off keeping the chain clean. The PO FAQ has some good info why to use oil instead of spray-on lubricants. Gear oil doen't stick to the chain as wel as regular motor oil, so you need a richer setting of the PO. What oils to use in a Pro-Oiler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest matt_c Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 This thread makes me want a belt drive even more!!!! BLS.....quite your yappin about stinky inlines and get to work on the belt conversion kits!!!! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer thereisnospoon Posted June 8, 2007 Member Contributer Share Posted June 8, 2007 Well, it doesn't. In fact it isn't supposed to stay on the chain (for long) :D Chain oilers are a total loss system: the oil lubes the o-rings and oil and dirt flings off keeping the chain clean. The PO FAQ has some good info why to use oil instead of spray-on lubricants. Gear oil doen't stick to the chain as wel as regular motor oil, so you need a richer setting of the PO. What oils to use in a Pro-Oiler this kinda got to me... some bikes are harder on chains than others (rule of thumb, 4-cylinder bikes are easiest on the chain) those boss hoss big blocks would just kill 520 chain without an oiler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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