Member Contributer solohvs Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 I wanted to add the whole touring package after I bought my bike last year. The HONDA hard cases were the perfect addition, but the top case was stupid looking (sticking out so far behind the seat) and it threw off the balance off the bike and that was before I even packed anything. The dealer took the top case back AND the bracket that allows the quick release.... I love the look of the top case over the seat. NICE GOING. I just might give the OEM top box one more try. The whole project looks fantastic - let us know how it handles with a load! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 I had to place one of the grab handle bolts (the most rear ward ones) into the bracket before the topplate was mounted, because the topplate actually partially covers the head of the grab handle bolt. I had to use vice grips on that bolt to tighten it - an allen wrench will not slip into it from above - because of the topplate. (hope that made sense). If not - PM me and I'll explain . <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Can you drill an access hole in the top plate and drop the allen wrench in to tighten the bolt? I don't like using vice grips to tighten them if I can help it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Can you drill an access hole in the top plate and drop the allen wrench in to tighten the bolt? I don't like using vice grips to tighten them if I can help it. TBZEP - I just took some photos - photobucket site is under maintenance right now - so can't load them up. BUT - - to answer your question in the meantime, no - there is no way to drill into the top plate to get the allen key in the head. I'll see if I can remember how to upload to VFRD...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 TBZEP - I just took some photos - photobucket site is under maintenance right now - so can't load them up. BUT - - to answer your question in the meantime, no - there is no way to drill into the top plate to get the allen key in the head.I'll see if I can remember how to upload to VFRD...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I looked at your pics again. It looks like the Givi badge is in the way. Is that what you are talking about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 I looked at your pics again.? It looks like the Givi badge is in the way.? Is that what you are talking about? YEs - the GIvi badge - heres a top down look see: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...cmd=si&img=9842 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest notoriousdjw Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 Ken, Beautiful work! That's exactly how I've always wanted to mount the top case to make the best of a bad visual situation and keep the handling on the sport side of Sport Touring. Report back after some test riding! Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HenryCdn Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Nice job Ken. :goofy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cdn Arctic Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 TBZEP - I just took some photos - photobucket site is under maintenance right now - so can't load them up. BUT - - to answer your question in the meantime, no - there is no way to drill into the top plate to get the allen key in the head.I'll see if I can remember how to upload to VFRD...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ken, How about changing to a Hex Head instead of a Allen? You should be able to slip an open ended wrench in the space without any problem. Change all 4 and the look is identical and you will be the only one that ever notices. You could also consider cutting an Allen wrench down and that might work too. I don't like the idea of vise grips either. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Ken,How about changing to a Hex Head instead of a Allen? You should be able to slip an open ended wrench in the space without any problem. Change all 4 and the look is identical and you will be the only one that ever notices. You could also consider cutting an Allen wrench down and that might work too. I don't like the idea of vise grips either. Rich Yep - thats an option as well. THose rear bolts STILL need to be slipped through the bracket first though - don't ask me how I know that...... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Lobster Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Ken, Looks good. Better be filling that top case with lots of free goodies to Pgreen's ride this year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dude Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Ken,Looks good. Better be filling that top case with lots of free goodies to Pgreen's ride this year! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> :thumbsup: :goofy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer johne Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Nice work kkkkkkken. :thumbsup: Just for reference, how many cases of Sleemans will it support? :huh: :goofy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 9, 2006 Author Share Posted March 9, 2006 Nice work kkkkkkken. :thumbsup: Just for reference, how many cases of Sleemans will it support? :beer: :wheel: Johne - you bring up a good point. The main reason I needed to better position the weight of the topbox was for those RARE occasions when precious cargo must be transported safely. Sleemans is one of Canada's finest beers, and it rightly deserves to be protected, and cared for with the highest respect. Not to mention it costs a small fortune to buy...... I can get at least 24 beer, with ice, packed into this fine cooler, er I mean topbox. Its there for the end of the day AFTER the riding (I don't drink and ride - at ALL.) BOx is watertight - so as long as it doesn't melt too much - it shouldn't slosh around. We'll find out this summer though - won't we...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer johne Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 We'll find out this summer though - won't we...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Indeed we will. :goofy: I on the other hand drink some cheap nasty crap so my soft bags will do just fine :thumbsup: :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Cdn Arctic Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Johne - you bring up a good point. The main reason I needed to better position the weight of the topbox was for those RARE occasions when precious cargo must be transported safely. Sleemans is one of Canada's finest beers, and it rightly deserves to be protected, and cared for with the highest respect. Not to mention it costs a small fortune to buy......I can get at least 24 beer, with ice, packed into this fine cooler, er I mean topbox. Its there for the end of the day AFTER the riding (I don't drink and ride - at ALL.) BOx is watertight - so as long as it doesn't melt too much - it shouldn't slosh around. We'll find out this summer though - won't we...... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ken, I seem to be following your lead here so when you design and install the insulation package for the cooler / ice box (I'm old and can remember ice boxes) can you please take pictures and save me more time in following you along. Maybe your design could incorporate a drainage system to accommodate the melt factor... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jeepist Posted March 9, 2006 Share Posted March 9, 2006 If the sides of the Givi mount plate that hang down get in the way of accessing the bolts, you can always try their universal mount plate which is totally flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Extreme Justice Posted March 9, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2006 Ken, What's it like getting on and off the bike with the Topcase on. I definitely like the look better than the topbox sticking way up and out like the oem one does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest touring03 Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 YEah - I know its a WING in the making, but I think the added benefits of the topbox not hanging off the arse end will be a nice change. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Nice job, I'm using the stock topcase and you're right, it hangs way out there. Load it up too heavy and it sure changes the feel of the bike. PG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tbzep Posted March 10, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2006 I on the other hand drink some cheap nasty crap so my soft bags will do just fine :thumbsup:Â :P <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You keep your beer in your pants? border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 767fixer Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 You keep your beer in your pants? border='0' alt='user posted image' /> <{POST_SNAPBACK}> he can't keep anything in his pants.....ask the sheep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zRoYz Posted March 10, 2006 Share Posted March 10, 2006 (edited) Quick release mount if you want to remove seat & keep lower mount hight is not real hard & there is 2 ways to do it, 1 you need lath & will look trick, the other alittle more back yard. Extend grab handle bolts with custom made bolts that have shaft above thread, then smaller short shaft above that with hole drilled for locking pin (use hex mat then no problem tightening bolts into handle). These all are same length, you then have plate that has holes lined up with the 4 handle bar pins & push it on & lock down with quick release pins (use o-rings between pin & plate to stop rattle). Box mount just mounts to plate. Want to remove seat just pull out quick release pins. Back yard way is to weld a longer bolt ontop of handle bolt & use nuts to adjust hight (you lock 2 together they don't move) & drill hole for Quick release pin. If box mount above pins then space up alittle above lock plate you made to gain room to install lock pins (you would only need 10mm max if that's the case). In words something like this: TURNED THREAD HANDLE MOUNT/HEX BAR/8MM TURNED PIN/CROSS DRILLED HOLE IN PIN TO LOCK BOX MOUNTING PLATE Edited March 10, 2006 by zRoYz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 10, 2006 Author Share Posted March 10, 2006 Ken,What's it like getting on and off the bike with the Topcase on. I definitely like the look better than the topbox sticking way up and out like the oem one does. Comical is how I mught describe it...... :goofy: I haven't figured out a graceful way to do it yet - but it is tricky to not bang the top box with the foot thats swinging over. I think the centre stand needs to be used, put the left foot on the peg - climb up and over. I'll see how that goe s- hopefully get out this weekend, :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 10, 2006 Author Share Posted March 10, 2006 Quick release mount if you want to remove seat & keep lower mount hight is not real hard & there is 2 ways to do it, 1 you need lath & will look trick, the other alittle more back yard.Extend grab handle bolts with custom made bolts that have shaft above thread, then smaller short shaft above that with hole drilled for locking pin (use hex mat then no problem tightening bolts into handle). These all are same length, you then have plate that has holes lined up with the 4 handle bar pins & push it on & lock down with quick release pins (use o-rings between pin & plate to stop rattle). Box mount just mounts to plate. Want to remove seat just pull out quick release pins. Back yard way is to weld a longer bolt ontop of handle bolt & use nuts to adjust hight (you lock 2 together they don't move) & drill hole for Quick release pin. If box mount above pins then space up alittle above lock plate you made to gain room to install lock pins (you would only need 10mm max if that's the case). In words something like this: TURNED THREAD HANDLE MOUNT/HEX BAR/8MM TURNED PIN/CROSS DRILLED HOLE IN PIN TO LOCK BOX MOUNTING PLATE I like the idea of a quick release - thanks for the help!! :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dude Posted March 10, 2006 Member Contributer Share Posted March 10, 2006 Comical is how I mught describe it...... :blink: I haven't figured out a graceful way to do it yet - but it is tricky to not bang the top box with the foot thats swinging over. I think the centre stand needs to be used, put the left foot on the peg - climb up and over. I'll see how that goe s- hopefully get out this weekend, :lol: <{POST_SNAPBACK}> KKKen you could carry a small ladder in the top box so when getting on and off (the bike) you would have no problems. :lurk: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KanadianKen Posted March 10, 2006 Author Share Posted March 10, 2006 KKKen you could carry a small ladder in the top box so when getting on and off (the bike) you would have no problems. :goofy: I'll just make sure to ride with you DUde - your cane could be used as well for me to climb up on..... :idea3: :goofy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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