Motovation frame sliders fitted

[Guest Roma-VFR-05]

Kaldek,

thank you for sharing your experience.

I posted another topic in the mods section, about a solution I found

on the internet.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=16218

It seems less-intrusive, less skill-demanding than your solution

But it seems to me that it offers less protection.

What do you think about it?

Thank you for your answer

[Guest none]

The LHS head cowling is where the VFR decal area is.

It took most of the impart, rendering the decal into stripes.

Side cowling is near the bottom where you check the engine oil level.

Area where there is a "hump".

Yes, 80km/hr is enough to kill a cat.

When you say "LHS head cowling and side cowling", do you mean the very bits of fairing that the slider is supposed to protect?

I suppose as long as the tank isn't damaged that takes a lot of the worry out, but then 80km/h is pretty fast and I'd expect to see major damage regardless at that speed.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Guest spetsnaz]

nice. Then again I don't want a slider keeping me a wya from a new VFR :goofy:

[Guest 42Long]

Looks like the hole that is cut into the fairing actually cuts thru the area where there is a couple of right angles that forms the bridge between the two fairing outlets. if this is the case, seems like a drill press would be required to make a nice straight cut in this area?

can this mod be done with a hand drill and produce a professional look?

[teleskier]

I used a drill press but if you have two people I don't see why a hand drill on slow speed can't be used as long as you have a pilot hole.

[Das Bone]

I did mine with a hand drill......the only difference was that I used a 1 3/4" hole saw(pilot hole drilled first of course) to avoid some of those "wierd" angles :P and then used a 1 3/4" drum sanding bit a gradually increased the hole size to get it where I was happy with the fit.

I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.

No problem doing it by hand.....just take your time and work carefully B)

[Guest ulysses]

Man I just used my eyes and drilled it with a hand drill. I just stayed steady on the ol' feet and made sure I was drilling straight.

So long as your pilot hole is in the right place, it's hard to go wrong.

Kaldek

oops - I just posted this from my Dad's PC!

Edited October 29, 2005 by ulysses

[kaldek]

I used the blue painters tape to completely cover the outside of the fairing in the area to be drilled for safety reasons.

Das Bone has an excellent point. Covering the fairing with painter's tape will help stop you from making mistakes like skipping your spinning drill bit across your fairing and gouging the paint.

I actually did this, but was lucky that the scratches were on the bit of fairing I was just about to drill out. :huh:

Kaldek

[Guest 42Long]

Thanks for the info, looks like im gonna give it a shot.

i'm curious, when you drill the hole are you removing a portion of the almost horizontal ridge that is at the bottom of the hole. i cant seem to make it out in the pictures?

[teleskier]

take a look at mine in my gallery. By the way, if you drill from the inside to outside that leave no chance to mar the paint. Then just take a deburring tool to the edge and it looks very professional.

[Das Bone]

Thanks for the info, looks like im gonna give it a shot.

i'm curious, when you drill the hole are you removing a portion of the almost horizontal ridge that is at the bottom of the hole. i cant seem to make it out in the pictures?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes you are..........that's why I used a smaller hole saw to try and avoid having to deal with the angles, and then used the drum sander to increase the hole and keep it very clean.

As Teleskier mentioned, drilling can be done from the inside of the fairing too to avoid using painters tape etc..

I used a laser level to mark my pilot hole location so I was marking from the outside of the fairing. Generally fairing holes are drilled from the outside going in especially on bikes with graphics(most 600's and 1000's) because going from the inside out would have a tendency to mess up the sticker type graphics on the outside of the fairing. Not an issue here for our VFR's so I guess you can go at it which ever way makes the most sense for you.

Good luck...just take your time.....you know "measure 3 times...drill once" :P

[teleskier]

as far as marking the hole, I screwed a dowel locating jug to the end of the engine rod, put electrical tape on the inside of the fairing since it is soft and indents well, then the dowel jig left a nice impression in the tape to drill my pilot hole. lots easier than using paint on the many angled surfaces.

[Guest 42Long]

does the motovation instructions list a torque value for the bolts?

[kaldek]

does the motovation instructions list a torque value for the bolts?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nope, they don't. However seeing as they are hex-head bolts most of us won't have a socket that can apply serious torque to them. I have the usual set of allen keys, which I added some oomph to with a tube spanner hooked onto the end of it. I basically used my judgement considering it's bolting into an aluminium engine. So in other words, tight but not too tight.

Kaldek

[Guest 42Long]

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics!

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

DSC01609.JPG

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

DSC01611.JPG

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

DSC01613.JPG

[ProMed]

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics!

Wow, that looks very impressive, great job!

[Das Bone]

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics

Nice job! :thumbsup:

What did you use as a sealant/bond on your coolant bottle?

[Guest 42Long]

Nice job!  :thumbsup:

clear rtv, just hope it holds up to the heat.

What did you use as a sealant/bond on your coolant bottle?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[fallzboater]

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum. Thought i would post some pics!

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

DSC01609.JPG

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Very clean! What did you use for the sleeve?

I've got the sliders in my garage, might try the intall this weekend.

[Guest 42Long]

Very clean!  What did you use for the sleeve?

I've got the sliders in my garage, might try the intall this weekend.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I had an empty model engine fuel jug laying around. its made of thick plastic, approx 1mm thick. i actually cut out a piece from the side of the jug, so there is a seam when installed. i placed the seam under one of the edges that is created by cutting the hole in the tank and sealed it well.

any plastic gallon jug should work except for milk jugs.

good luck!

[kaldek]

I had an empty model engine fuel jug laying around. its made of thick plastic, approx 1mm thick. i actually cut out a piece from the side of the jug, so there is a seam when installed. i placed the seam under one of the edges that is created by cutting the hole in the tank and sealed it well.

any plastic gallon jug should work except for milk jugs.

good luck!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Mate, that is a really nice and clean install job. Makes mine look like crap! You must have a steady eye my friend. :beer:

Kaldek

[Guest SagaciousDupe]

ROD, Wow that looks factory! Great job!

:idea3:

After reading this thread I came up with an idea that I wanted to run by everyone...

When browsing ebay for sliders, I noticed these: ('04-'05 R1 sliders $35 shipped)

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

'04-'05 R1 Frame Slider

With these, could use longer bolts and move the sliders out further by machining a spacer (or could even use washers). This would allow the hole in the bottle to be much smaller. Depending on how far you space them out, the hole in the fairing could possibly be the smaller diameter as well (realizing that you would have to take the sliders off every time you take the fairing off).

The only negative that I have thought of so far is: Since there would be less surface material against the frame changing the leverage ratio, in the event of a crash the bolt might bend easier? Don't know. :joystick:

Curious to find out what your thoughts are!

Kevin

PS...Don't want to hijack this thread, if it should be on it's own please move it!!

[fallzboater]

Nice job on your rims, too, that's exactly how I did mine. Looks much better than the monochrome black, and not too hard to maintain.

[Das Bone]

ROD,  Wow that looks factory!  Great job!

:beer:

After reading this thread I came up with an idea that I wanted to run by everyone...

When browsing ebay for sliders, I noticed these:  ('04-'05 R1 sliders $35 shipped)

border='0' alt='user posted image' />

'04-'05 R1 Frame Slider

With these, could use longer bolts and move the sliders out further by machining a spacer (or could even use washers).  This would allow the hole in the bottle to be much smaller.  Depending on how far you space them out, the hole in the fairing could possibly be the smaller diameter as well (realizing that you would have to take the sliders off every time you take the fairing off). 

The only negative that I have thought of so far is:  Since there would be less surface material against the frame changing the leverage ratio, in the event of a crash the bolt might bend easier?  Don't know.  :joystick:

Curious to find out what your thoughts are!

Kevin

PS...Don't want to hijack this thread, if it should be on it's own please move it!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Kevin,

Hard to know for sure, but I think your concerns might be valid. The R&G sliders from the UK are somewhat similar to what you describe but their design incorporates a solid rod that runs all the way through the engine mount position from one side to the other, so it's "way" sturdy. They also use the more forward of the engine mount bolt positions and they give you a "modded" coolant bottle that basically just has the top corner removed and resealed.

So, I guess what I'm suggesting is that if you want to avoid the coolant bottle mod and would prefer the smaller hole drilled in the fairing then the "proven" R&G setup might be a safer bet. Yes, you do have to remove the sliders to remove the fairings and yes they do stick out a bit further that the MV's, and they are quite a bit more expensive, but you do get their modded coolant bottle etc.

I guess I'd be leary to try and take something like the sliders you've shown and try and "make" them fit/work for something they weren't designed for.

Like I said, hard to know for sure of course but I think I'd be worried about the

same things you mentioned.

BTW, changing subjects but Scootr has mailed off his chainguard and I've got a number for a painter so I've got to talk to him but................... :thumbsup:

[magellan]

Just finished my slider install, no major problems thanks to the info available on this forum.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Does anyone know if the 6th gen Motovation sliders bolt right onto a 5th gen? I can't find them listed for a 5th gen on the 2 or 3 sites I've checked.