MacJaffa Posted April 21, 2023 Share Posted April 21, 2023 Hello lovely people! Hi everyone…. This is Buttercup, I've been chasing frustrating low voltage around, but finally whacked the mosfet on my li’l 5th gen treasure and she is back in 14s for voltage again. Thought I'd go for a celebratory ride but, like a good boy, I did my checks. And found my indicators and horn aren’t working. I changed to the spare fuse and I squirted a little wd40 into the switch (I now realise it should be contact cleaner, will get some), but nothing. No indicators, no indicators on the dash, no horn. Could this be related to my installation of the Super Mosfet kit FH020AA (from Roadstercycle)? I don't believe the indicators were faulty before. In fact, I did get her down for MOT a week back, even with the faulty reg, so they were fine. I'm now getting 14.3-4 at idle and the same at 5000rpm...but something has changed. Also, if one of the bulbs has gone, does it all fail, like I'm seeing? Could it just be A bulb? Where should I go next, please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2023 - Was the original fuse blown? Using your voltmeter the black lead on the Battery Negative and the red lead probing the top of Sub Fuse C 10amp being your Horn and Indicator Fuse. (Note the tiny metal test points on the top of the fuses). - With Ignition to On what voltage do you read on both of the test points? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacJaffa Posted April 21, 2023 Author Share Posted April 21, 2023 Hi, I had one last 10amp and put that in...it read .2v....it blew as soon as ignition went on. Never realised the test points on fuses! Not even sure I got the correct reading for you....? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2023 34 minutes ago, MacJaffa said: Hi, I had one last 10amp and put that in...it read .2v....it blew as soon as ignition went on. Never realised the test points on fuses! Not even sure I got the correct reading for you....? So the 10amp Fuse for Horn and Indicators blows as soon as ignition is turned on, correct? Thats with no horn pressed or blinkers selected, correct? If that's a Yes to the above. Locate your Turn Signal Relay and unplug it. Replace the fuse turn on Ignition, does the fuse still blow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacJaffa Posted April 21, 2023 Author Share Posted April 21, 2023 Hi Grum, yep, that's completely correct. Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 21, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 21, 2023 1 hour ago, MacJaffa said: Hi Grum, yep, that's completely correct. Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow. If my wiring diagram is correct to your bike then the Only thing powered from that fuse at Ignition switch on is the Turn Signal Relay. The Horn and Brake lights are all isolated by switches. So unless you have a short to ground somewhere on the wiring, a faulty Turn Signal Relay is the most likely suspect to cause your fuse to blow....... ALSO - Check your front brake handle switch. Another common cause for blowing that fuse is the front brake switch wire contacts touching frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted April 22, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2023 2 hours ago, Grum said: If my wiring diagram is correct to your bike then the Only thing powered from that fuse at Ignition switch on is the Turn Signal Relay. The Horn and Brake lights are all isolated by switches. So unless you have a short to ground somewhere on the wiring, a faulty Turn Signal Relay is the most likely suspect to cause your fuse to blow....... ALSO - Check your front brake handle switch. Another common cause for blowing that fuse is the front brake switch wire contacts touching frame. Bumblebee suffered from that exact problem when I carelessly rotated the brake master for my preferred wrist angle. Good suggestion Sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Wald Posted April 22, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2023 I second Terry's and Grum's statement. I had the same issue on my 4th gen last year where I kept blowing the fuses for turn signals. Took the front brake switch apart, cleaned it, problem solved. I hope, I did not jinx it now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 22, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2023 Your "Buttercup" and Terry's "Bumblebee" don't let em near each other!! One of the Best VFR lookers, a Yellow 5th gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacJaffa Posted April 22, 2023 Author Share Posted April 22, 2023 Hey everyone....Fixed...it seems. Seriously, thanks for all the help...and @Grum, thanks for walking through it with me. I got a pack of fuses and got all ready to get at the relay...put took the rear fairing off to have a good look at the wiring. During the reg/rec fix I had removed a lot of messy wiring from the previous owner's installation of heated grips. It had an inline fuse on the red (messy, but there) and a black going to black on the battery. I removed the lot. What I didn't move (because I didn't know what it is -and still don't) was this wire (pictured) going to ground on the battery. I took that off and all is well. I believe it's to do with the heated grips and is somehow linked into the turn signal circuit. I disconnected and taped up...I'm hoping that's fine? 3 hours ago, Grum said: Your "Buttercup" and Terry's "Bumblebee" don't let em near each other!! One of the Best VFR lookers, a Yellow 5th gen. Aww, yeah, I do like the yellow. Used to have a blue one (called 'Bluebell', ha). Still like those. Have to say that for any troubles with this being an 'old bike'....I really love the look of them and prefer them to newer, more angular designs. Hoping she keeps rolling happily now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Grum Posted April 22, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2023 1 hour ago, MacJaffa said: What I didn't move (because I didn't know what it is -and still don't) was this wire (pictured) going to ground on the battery. I took that off and all is well. You really should try and map out exactly where the other end of that brown wire goes. For info, that relay behind the brown wire is the Fuel Cut Relay. Sounds meesy and a little confusing all of the stuff you've removed. Suggest you do a thorough operational test of every electrical device and make sure you don't go popping fuses. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacJaffa Posted April 22, 2023 Author Share Posted April 22, 2023 1 hour ago, Grum said: You really should try and map out exactly where the other end of that brown wire goes. For info, that relay behind the brown wire is the Fuel Cut Relay. Sounds meesy and a little confusing all of the stuff you've removed. Suggest you do a thorough operational test of every electrical device and make sure you don't go popping fuses. Good luck. Hiya, Yep, I agree....I'm ordering a bolt set for all my fairings (as -during all of this- mine have become worn or won't screw in) so I'm going to take the whole fairing off and have a good dig around. I'd like to get the heated grips working again but, also, I want to install a voltmeter...which I figure I'll add to the heated grip setup. I feel like that will be a good time to have a look at the nitty gritty. It does seem like a messy install of the grips. Another question....the plug. that my old rectifier plugged into.....can I plug the grips and voltmeter into that? Or am I showing just how much I don't know? That is an extension of the battery's live and ground, is it not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted April 22, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 22, 2023 7 hours ago, MacJaffa said: Another question....the plug. that my old rectifier plugged into.....can I plug the grips and voltmeter into that? Or am I showing just how much I don't know? That is an extension of the battery's live and ground, is it not? NO!!! You'll be doing exact same thing PO did and creating a mess! Voltmeter & heated grips should have their own brand-new wires connected directly to battery +pos & -neg terminals with new and separate fuse. Share nothing with bike's original harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted April 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2023 4 hours ago, DannoXYZ said: NO!!! You'll be doing exact same thing PO did and creating a mess! Voltmeter & heated grips should have their own brand-new wires connected directly to battery +pos & -neg terminals with new and separate fuse. Share nothing with bike's original harness. There's an exception to this which I have done (before I fully trusted the Oxford smart system that cuts power when the bike is parked) which is adding a switched relay into the heated grip circuit; I have hooked into the tail light wires for the trigger voltage for the switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted April 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2023 17 hours ago, Grum said: Your "Buttercup" and Terry's "Bumblebee" don't let em near each other!! One of the Best VFR lookers, a Yellow 5th gen. Aww shucks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer DannoXYZ Posted April 23, 2023 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2023 3 hours ago, Terry said: There's an exception to this which I have done (before I fully trusted the Oxford smart system that cuts power when the bike is parked) which is adding a switched relay into the heated grip circuit; I have hooked into the tail light wires for the trigger voltage for the switch. True, getting low-power relay-activation signal is OK. But nothing that draws significant power that can cause extra-drain, shorts and blown fuses like OP experienced. 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacJaffa Posted April 23, 2023 Author Share Posted April 23, 2023 15 hours ago, DannoXYZ said: NO!!! You'll be doing exact same thing PO did and creating a mess! Voltmeter & heated grips should have their own brand-new wires connected directly to battery +pos & -neg terminals with new and separate fuse. Share nothing with bike's original harness. Ha, love the passion in your statement there...and yes, I do totally agree. That's a great principle (share nothing with the bike's own harness). I was really just wondering what I should do with this 'live end'....but I suppose capping it off and leaving it be is the best option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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