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Hi all, So I've decided to upgrade the bike for long hauls by adding a GPS mount and power outlet to my 2009 ABS. I didn't have any room to mount the power outlet on the inner fairing plastics because the ABS module takes up so much room. I'm working on creating a new mounting bracket to hold either a power outlet or USB, or combination of the two. I'll hopefully be working on the prototype this weekend depending on the weather and other commitments, but here is the solution I have come up with so far. As I progress I'll update you all with pics of the completed project

Luggage now fitted and voltmeter with usb

Or, My New 2007 VFR800A! Of course I wanted a 25th R/W/B but this red (what color is it called?) was so clean with low miles I didn’t want to pass it up. All the 25th’s were thousands of miles away, however my new ride was less than a hundred miles to go pick up. Purchased from Omni Powersports in Palm, PA, nice people and easy to transact with. The title showed first titled in 2009, first owner logged about 400mi, then 2011 second owner 3000mi, then 2016 the last owner just about 1100mi. Now mine with 4500mi, all stock except a fender eliminator (Competition Werkes?) and new tires (Battlax BT023R). In just a few days I’ve put a few hundred miles on and basically left wondering Why didn’t I get one of these before!? I may be new to VFR’s, but not new to motorcycling and not new to sport riding, roadracing, mx, woods riding, et cetera. My last MC was (still have it, hey now it’s for sale!) a 2006 Suzuki SV650 cafe/street fighter/backroad twisty tool that I loved building and tweaking on but somehow lost interest in because it couldn’t do the long miles and left me sore from the clip ons and seating position. So here’s to a new start and a new forum, and maybe some touring, and definitely some tweaking. On to the pictures! A new Shoei RF1200 has replaced my old Suomy Spec1R in the pictures, and some new relaxed riding gear is on order to replace my two piece AStars leathers. I won’t bore you with the suspension set up (that was first), but I already have some things on order and plan to update here as I go. RAM mount, power supply, cruise control, are first things first.

I am adding a voltage meter to my 5th gen. I just purchased the Lascar DMV-1200, and have seen several threads on mounting / wiring. I thought there might be other creative installers and fabricators out there, so i want to pull together a thread of custom mounting ideas. If you have a voltage meter how about posting up pics of your mount and pros and cons of the location now that you have used it awhile! Thx.

Okay, so you've installed a voltmeter and you're out on a ride and far from home. Scenario #1 : You see > 15V. The battery is getting overcharged. Do you disconnect the stator to r/r connector to protect your battery? So in effect you are running total loss and relying on the battery charge only. You could probably re-connect occasionally to charge up the battery. Scenario #2 : You see < 12V. The battery is not getting charged. Do you unplug headlights, if possible, and disconnect other current draws such as heated gear? What else can you do? Carrying a spare r/r might be a good idea since it is easy to swap out, a stator not so much. Any other thoughts or words of wisdom? I figure I may as well be able to do something other than curse at the voltmeter and give myself the best chance at success.

Hi All, I'm posting this mostly as a thank you to the folks past and present who make VFRD so awesome. From the very idea of adding a voltmeter to tips, suggestions, warnings, etc. I learned pretty much everything I needed to know for this project from reading on this site. Quick background: My 1991 VFR 750 is my first bike and pretty much the only bike I've ever ridden (other than a Rebel 250 at a MSF weekend course). I've had it for coming up on three years. Over the years I've had a number of electrical problems that have left me stranded but I didn't really understand what was going on. Eventually I got fed up and replaced my stator, r/r, and battery all at once. Well... even that didn't solve my problem which as some of us know (thanks gll429!) is due to an insufficient wiring harness and poor grounds. After replacing the r/r again, adding additional ground points, and adding a VFRness I'm finally satisfied my bike isn't going to leave me stranded. However, now I'm extremely paranoid and check the voltage at the battery quite frequently (about as often as I check my tire pressure). So... a hard wired voltmeter was needed! I jumped on ebay and purchased a $10 voltmeter rated from 4 - 40 volts. When it arrived I checked its readings against my (also cheap) Harbour Freight voltmeter. They matched perfectly! Next was a quick trip to Radio Shack. I picked up: 1 variety pack of 20 gauge wire in red, black, and green 1 on / off toggle switch 1 variety pack of crimp on butt connectors 1 variety pack of ring terminals 1 variety pack of female disconnects I already had the following at home: electrical tape crimper / wire stripper heat shrink tubing Here's what I did: I pulled the lower dash panel (see pics below) and drilled a hole for the toggle switch and dremeled a rectangle for the voltmeter. The toggle switch had a self-locking mechanism so I just used this. To secure the voltmeter I added two long srews with nylon locking nuts. I taped a border around the voltmeter on the front of the panel and used black liquid electrical tape to fill the small cracks / scuffs from the dremel. ***warning*** the voltmeter I used was just small enough to fit between the panel and the plastic pieces behind it when installed. If you're following these directions take a close look at that area after you pull off the panel and before you start working to get an idea of the space you have to work with. I wired the positive (red) lead from the voltmeter to the toggle switch using a female disconnect. I added another long piece of wire with a female disconnect on one end and a ring terminal on the other to the other male lead on the voltmeter. I created a matching negative wire with a ring terminal on one side and used a butt connector to connect it to the negative lead on the voltmeter. I taped up the positive and negative wires (to each other and then around the bundle for protection) and routed it with other wires from beind the dash towards the headstock then along the existing wiring harness to the battery. In my case I connected it to my Termin-8 but fuse block, battery, Termin-8, etc. is all the same. And that's it! I took my bike out for a ride last night and I can't even begin to express how comforting it is to see a solid 14.5 on the dash while riding! Frankly, I'm very proud that I was able to finally solve my electrical problems without getting screwed by a big box dealer and I've learned a TON along the way. Hopefully this post goes a little ways to "paying it forward" and helps someone else out!

So, I'm looking for a temp gauge and a clock for my 3rd gen and I stumbled on this http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics It looks great for the price and has all I want and need. Plus, it would fit perfectly in the area where the digital clock goes (my bike hasn't had one since I got the bike). Some reviews of the above item aren't great though. Anyone else using something different? Thanks.

Could someone tell me if I've got this right: Bought an ADVMonster digital voltmeter: http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-23/Waterproof-Digital-Voltmeter/Detail.bok I bought it after I followed a link from a forum topic quite a while ago, but can't find it again using search. The unit did not come with instructions, and the website is pretty silent. I think their intent is to wire the "signal" direct to the battery so the voltage reading is accurate. Then the "power" can come from my switched (relay) so that the unit shuts down when the key is off. Right?