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So Thursday morning, I pulled my bike out at 5am and headed to work. Everything was fine and working well. After work, I started the bike up and again, everything was fine. As my bike warms up I can see the lights reflecting off the wall in front of where I park, so I know they are working. On the way home, the only different that occurred, that never occurs is a car cut me off and I flashed my high beams several times. Later on the ride home, I was sitting behind a large SUV at a light and I noticed my headlights were not reflecting back at me from the back of the car. I have the high output Phillips bulbs. When I pull into my garage at home, I check it out and notice the lights are off and won't come back on. I pull the bulbs and test them. The bulbs are fine. I noticed the bulb connector was melted. I pull the fairings off and check the fuse and notic that it's blown. I replaced the fuse and It blows again. I cut off the headlight connector and replace the fuse and it doesn't blow this time. After purchasing a new H4 bulb connector soldering it in place and plugging it up, I still have no power to the bulb. The fuse is good. Tail lights work, turn signals work, markers work and the dash lights up. For what ever reason, the lights are still not coming on. I tested the bulb independantly on the battery and they are good. I'm now starting to beat my head against the wall trying to figure out the problem. I think I'll pull the high bean low beam switch and check it next. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I picked up this 1992 RC36.1 last spring (2018) in Connecticut (USA). It was a really good price, but not exactly a cream puff so I’ve been trying to bring it up to a decent standard and as cheaply as possible. To do that, I've been poking around online and you all have been guiding me too, so thank you for that. By now I have a few insights and experiences of my own that might actually help somebody else. Time to get out of the shadows. The odometer was at just over 25,000 miles when I got the bike and I am at least the fourth owner. The bike's history is long lost along with a number of odds and ends, bits and pieces. I wonder if there is a way to trace it all back. The guy I got it from seemed honest and funny but he had some curious theories of shade tree mechanics so it's taking me a little while to learn to trust the ride. I'm still semi worried about the long term effects of some of his theories but so far, so good. The title showed that he'd bought the bike in 2012 at 23,122 miles. So we're talking 2000 miles in 6 years. I’ve ridden about 1200 miles in less than 4 months without major surprises. I've also encountered the usual gen3 issues. When I took it on, the bike had almost new tires and chain and battery, and the upgraded regulator/rectifier. The starter clutch is supposed to be new too. The engine oil was the color of honey. I needed a few things right away and, as you'll see, this is a work in progress. The cosmetics really, really need help. Really. Look closely at my photographs and you'll spot plenty of issues. I haven’t decided exactly how to proceed on those yet, but I’m considering options. You are welcome to make suggestions here and I might even follow some up. And I can tell you all my experiences so far. A few things done as soon as I got the bike home... Front Brake Switch I needed a front brake switch. These are $16 at Honda or $3 from China for a generic one on Ebay, or maybe it was Amazon. I’m trying out the $3 version. Sorry Honda. The one I got is pretty cheaply constructed with a thin plastic shell, but it does fit and work as advertised so far. I check it before every ride. If it doesn’t last, I know where to find the real one. Or I can get 4 more cheapos… Krator Mirrors I picked up the Krator replacement factory-look mirrors too, also from Ebay (...or Amazon...). They’re fine. The bike came with carbon look mirrors that were a mess. I know lots of you prefer newer styling and you get rid of the boots. I’m content with the original look. The Krator fittings are plastic, not metal, and the boots are kind of a fiddly fit on the proximal end. But you can tighten down the collar so that with a little patience you can get the boot to stay in place. These cost $22 for the pair. Honda OEM? Um, more than $22. Keys I needed proper keys. The bike came with a single cut key that looked like a generic car key made at the DIY store. It didn't even fit all that great. I had to get the key code from under the gas cap and there are services that’ll make you the right key from the code for about ten bucks. Once more to Ebay. Once more cheaper than the dealer. I don’t have anything against my local dealer. Not at all. I feel bad not supporting the guys more. But jeez louise, I just can't afford it. I wouldn’t even mind paying a little extra, especially if I could just walk in and out again with the parts I need. Unfortunately, not only is the dealer expensive, but most things have to be ordered from the warehouse anyway. So I still have to wait three or four days. I’m just sayin. So far I’ve had good results from all Ebay orders. I'm not thinking they're better than OEM. But some things are good enough. There's plenty more to add, but that's it for today. Stay tuned.

Hi everyone, I hope you're all well and in good spirits. I got my 'beast' just under a year ago and she was broken, battered and neglected. There was no MOT, the chain and sprockets were rusty, chain adjuster was seized, the oil was jet black and there was massive hole in the cat. But to be fair... it was quite clean: I got it in the middle of winter for a very reasonable price, so I then embarked upon a journey to restore her to her former glory! The list includes: -2 new Michelin Road Pilot 4 tyres -new D.I.D chain and sprockets -new tapered steering stem bearings -new front brake discs and pads -new battery -fitted an independent hazard light kit wired straight to the battery with blinker relay and diodes -powder coated wheels and nose cone bracket in gloss black -puig double bubble screen -side exhaust conversion (yoshi can) -pillion foot pegs and grab rails removed and honda blanks fitted -new rear wheel bearings (including needle and sprocket carrier bearings), all replaced with genuine Honda parts -eccentric hub cleaned and re-greased, chain adjuster is now free to move -new oil and filter, new coolant, coolant reservoir also cleaned -new spark plugs -K&N air filter -removed chain guard and sprocket cover and cleaned out years worth of grease and dirt -exhaust studs and nuts all replaced with stainless steel This is what she looks now: As it was coming up to winter, I thought the stock headlights could do with an upgrade, so I fitted these: I'll stop rambling for now, but I'm very pleased to be a part of the VFRd community! :)

Can any one please tell me what kind of plastic is used to make the headlights on my 2002 VFR800, I would like to try gluing one of the 'thingamajig' that has come off. The one that holds the screw that bolts on below the speedometer.

Angel Eyes complete headlight setups now available (not affiliated, just seeing this for the first time). No more DIY necessary http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KT-LED-Angel-Demon-Eye-HID-Headlight-Assembly-Fit-for-Honda-VFR800-2002-2012-Red-/291841268336?hash=item43f3185a70:g:4ZYAAOSw-itXqY0E&vxp=mtr

On the relays themselves it indicates "12V NO" (normally open)... and I have checked with multimeter and there IS continuity when they are energized... so the headlight circuit is closed (connected) with the ignition ON. My lo beams don't work. My hi beams do. If I swap the relays over it's ídem, ditto, the same; hi beams work, lo beams don't. The lo beam's relay does close the circuit when energized (key to ON). There is continuity to ground for the Green earth wire from the plug at the bulb (via the big blue connector; I have futureproofed the green wire running through this connector with a bridging wire or bypass, together with running a reinforcing wire to an alternative grounding point on the chassis). 12 Volts are supplied to the lo beam relay when ignition is ON, as checked via multimeter. Will continue checking for continuity where it should be... etc.

Hello Friends! This is my first post but I have been reading this forum for years. I'm not sure why it took me so long to join, but I need your help now! ISSUE: My 10A fuse that houses my "METER,TAIL ILLUM,STOP" keeps blowing while riding. I will lose my dash, headlights and break lights. I can be going smoothly along at 25 mph and it will blow. The local bike shop can't figure out why, but they have replaced my R/R and have verified that my new R/R is working still and my battery is good. I have not been able to put any science to this and have tried reproducing the issue while the bike is running and parked by wiggling wires and bouncing the bike up and down. It seems to only happen when riding. FINDINGS: After 2 unsuccessful trips to the local repair shop, I have decided to try my hand at motorcycle electrical troubleshooting. I popped the seat off and started pulling plugs and found that my Starter solenoid connector is melting, just like everyone else with a VFR. Next Steps: I plan on getting some cleaning these connections with some electrical spray cleaner and coating them with Ox Gard in the short term. I expect I will also need to replace this red cap and maybe the starter solenoid. Maybe a VFRness?? Questions: Do I need to replace the red plug AND starter solenoid? Will the VFRness prevent this from happening again? Thanks! Dane

2006 ABS 56,xxx miles New Yuasa battery All regular maintenance is on schedule Was in heavy rain 3 weeks ago. New tstat 2 weeks ago. H4s and H7s - New LEFT H4 a month ago. Headlights are on a relay and have always taken only a few seconds to come on. FIRST THE LEFT headlight, followed by the right about two or three seconds later. This past Sunday, the lights did not come on at all for the first couple of minutes. High beams worked just fine. After a few minutes, I blipped the throttle and the lights came on and stayed on. Tonight, same thing. Warmed up the engine, lights never came on. High beams were good. I blipped the throttle a couple times and nothing. Waited another minute, turned the throttle, lights came on. Doubt this has anything to do with it but I noticed the engine temp was at 136F when the lights came on tonight. Didn't notice on Sunday but seemed to be about the same amount of time in terms of letting the engine run. Guessing just a connection is loose somewhere but if that isn't it, what else could it be? Thanks.