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" A dirty fuel filter is a common cause for a voltage regulator to fail on a fuel-injected bike. " I found this quoted on the Powerlet website and thought that it would be interesting to hear people's opinions on it given that the R/R is the the main area of sudden failure on the otherwise indestructible VFR's. Scroll down to Table 4 " What if I don't have enough power?" #3 http://www.powerlet.com/learningCenter/excessCapacity

Hi, I have a Shindengen SH847 RR (the series MOSFET type). It is larger in all dimensions than the stock RR and the mounting holes are 100mm apart compared to the stock 80mm. The stock RR is in a good location but the new SH847 is certainly not a drop-in to the stocl location. Has anyone fitted one to a 6th Gen VFR? Any mounting suggestions?

Hey Guys, I'm hoping to order the necessary parts to fix my bike shortly, but figured I might consult those with more experience first as this is the first electrical issue I have truly attempted to troubleshoot. I have tried to narrow things down from the numerous other threads posted relating to the issue, but additional input would be great. My bike is a new to me (2 months) 2003 VFR800 with a PC3 and Two Bros exhaust with 25k miles. The harness recall has been done by the previous owner. I rode the bike nearly every day roughly 50 miles round trip for about the past two months, but last week it would barely start on the way to work. Upon leaving to go home at the end of the day, it was dead. I got a jump from a co-worker (car off) and proceeded to hurry home. It died on me 3 separate times, but fortunately I was moving fast enough to bump start each time. The fist time it died, I had only been riding about 5 minutes. If I kept the RPM's up, it seemed to run decently. I proceeded to charge the battery on a tender and test it. Right after pulling it off the bike, it was at 10.26V. By morning it seemed ok as it charged up to 13.1V and when reconnecting the tender, would jump up to 14.4V before settling back down to 13.1V. After leaving it unplugged all day, it dropped to about 12.96V and held steady there for the rest of the night. I had it tested by a local auto parts store and they confirmed it was fully charged and seemed to be in good health. I started to go through "The Drill" and first suspected the stator. The resistance between all the phases was consistent at 0.7 ohm's and they all had no continuity when each was tested to ground, so that seems to check out. I then checked each phase's AC voltage and got 19-20 at idle for each one and then around 60 when revved to 5k or so. So that test seemed to indicate thestator was ok as well. I then began to suspect the R/R and moved to check the voltage of the battery. At rest with the key off, it read 12.91V. With the key on, it dropped to around 12.3V, and after starting the bike and letting it idle, it would hang around 12.2V. When I would rev the bike, the voltage would drop across the terminals. At 4k rpm's, I read 12.16V. This would indicate a R/R issue correct? I know you can check the diodes to be certain, but the fact that the voltage at idle is lower than what it should be (14V ish) and with the stator seeming to check out, this would lead me to think it's the R/R. However, as many indicate the problem is much less of an issue with the 6th gens compared to the 5th, I thought I'd double check. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks

So this weekend I was down in Shelton, WA at The Ridge Motorsports track flagging and doing some track time. I rode down that morning (130 miles) with no problems. Also I've had my Reg and the VFRNESS installed for about 3k miles without any issues. The only thing I ever noticed is my lights would get brighter at 9-11k RPM's. Anyways I was able to ride the track for 20 minutes, about 8 hot laps of pure V4 glory with no issues. Parked for a brief 5-10 minute lunch before I hopped back on the track for about a mile to get back to my post at turn 8. When I got off the bike I noticed a little smoke from the rear wheel area, first I thought maybe hot header? Or some smoke from the tires? It was probably 85+ with real hot pavement. I walked around the other side and saw flames erupting from my f***ing fairings!! Luckily I had a fire extinguisher at my post and blasted away at it to no avail, had to rip off my side fairing and unplug the damn thing. Very sad way to end an awesome day ?

I'm sure many of you are already aware of the FH020AA rectifier / regulator upgrade. I just thought I would share a couple photos of my rectifier / regulator upgrade on my 5th Gen (1998). I went from the stock RR to a Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet RR (Super Kit) from Jack at roadstercycle.com. I can't say enough good things about the kit and Jack himself. He was very nice on the phone and via email correspondence. He answered all my questions and even customized the order for me. Best part is my bike is now running a steady 14.4v. The installation was very straight forward. I just made sure to take my time with it. I really focused on trying to make it clean and tidy. I think I achieved what I was wanting. I had to drill the mounting plate to orient the RR the way I wanted. I was originally going to use a Metri-Pack 630 connector from the RR to the stator, but I decided to use the heat shrink bullet connectors Jack included with his kit instead. I'm glad I did. I think it will make it easier if for some reason I need to make a field repair and/or add a new stator in the future. I chose to crimp instead of solder. I used a ratchet crimp tool and feel confident that it did the job right. All in all I think it was well worth the cost and time.

G'Day all, I have a 2006 VFR800 Gen 6. Recently my bike wouldn't start so I fully recharged my battery with a CTEK battery charger. A few days later of riding my instrument panel completely lost power and then my bike konked out. Lucky it stopped right outside my house. Did a bunch of online reading and YouTubing and some tests with my multimeter and it would appear my battery isn't charging anymore with the bike running. I pulled off the RR and the only test that appears to be failing or not providing any reading would be when I connect my Red multimeter cable to the Black RR cable and my Black multimeter cable to each of the 3 Yellow RR cables. Testing the 2 red and 2 green RR cables all produce the same reading which is good but I am getting nothing when I check the black(negative) RR cable. Does this mean my negative RR diode is faulty and hence need a replacement RR? Based on all the YT videos I have been watching, the negative should be getting the same reading across all three yellow cables. Mine is not. One video suggests as per the type of RR i.e. the SR or QR series will determine what type of test and reading needs to be conducted in order to work out if the RR is faulty or not. I haven't been able to find an exact step by step process for test the Honda VFR800 RR. If anyone has a detailed link I would also appreciate it. Cheers, Aidan

I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust. My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life. Plus another $1k for the good folks at DMR for suspension upgrades. it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts. The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay) Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k on unleashing the engine, plus another $1k at DMr for beefing up the suspension for the added power. (Everything is ordered and on the way) 1. $400- Corbin Seat 2. $150- ECU (Germany) 3. $ 20- OEM Air Box 4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter 5. $500- Staintune (Australia) 6. $350- SS Headers (UK) 7. $300-Power Commander 8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator 9. $120- HealTech Gear Red 10. $160- RDMOTO shorty 11. $595- DMr fork kit 12. $420- DMr CBR shock 13. $350- Clutch Porthole 14. $350- Stator / Rectifier 15. $200- Barnett Clutch Kit First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. Next steps: 1) Remove headers & exhaust 2) Install catless full system 3) Remove ECU 4) Install Euro Spec ECU 5) Install gear indicator 6) Install Power Commamder 7) Load Fuel Map file Start bike..... 8) Install DMr fork kit 9) Install DMr CBR shock Go for test ride.... 10) Install Barnett Clutch 11) Install Thurn Motorsport clutch case window 12) Install Thurn upgraded Stator, with Rectifier relocation mount kit. 13) Install Thurn Rear Hub Cover 15) Install RDMOTO short reach clutch and brake levers. IMG_4171.MOV Nov 5 Update: Now that the headers are installed, the double snorkel (no flapper)air box mod with a fresh K & N filter and adding 3oz Lucus octane boost every fill up. Still waiting on Euro ECU to show up before I do any new fuel mappings. DMr suspension kit has shipped. Also waiting on 2nd engine clutch cover. First job is to switch out the stator with a $50- el cheapie china stator so I can get my OEM over to Gerhard, along with the engine case clutch cover. As far as riding the bike all week, its starting to really open up ?? IMG_4198.MOV IMG_4213.MOV

I have a question about the VFRness instal, and would like opinions on the state of this stator I just replaced. According to the instructions the extra red wire goes to the starter relay. Just to make sure I have it right is this the wire (front right red wire)? (I do have the replacement plug kit) Not sure if I will just remove and replace the red wire or do a full replace of the starter relay plug with the replacement kit.. probably the latter. Below is a picture of the stator I removed (on the left). It is the original stator and had over 50k miles on it. What is your opinion of it's condition? I replaced it with a Rick's stator of course. Thanks for the feedback in advance!

Hi guys, I have a problem that I can't figure out. I have a 2002 VFR that has 72,000 miles now. I had the whole engine replaced at 65,000 miles because I bought manual CCTs and I overtightened them and resulted with the Cam Chains snapping. So I replaced the engine with a 2004 VFR engine that only had 15,000 miles. Everything was great. But today, my battery died on me. Its my daily ride, so I cant seem to figure out what is going on. Things that you guys might think are problems had been changed already when I replaced the engine. I changed the stator, rectifier, VFRness, and battery. 1. Things that happen to me on a daily basis. I live in San Francisco, and I have to ride in the city everyday. After riding for about 20 minutes in stop and go traffic, the horn would get weaker and weaker to the point of not having sound. Mind you, the engine temp is always around 200-210F when I ride in the city. 2. Another thing that happens is the engine cutting out when I blip the throttle. That happens when I have the clutch pulled in and blipped to shift from 2nd to 1st. Anyway, its confusing for me because I have the parts that could've caused the electrical problems replaced already. Any input will be helpful to me. Thank you.

Looking for the best place online to order a new rectifier for my 2003 VFR800 VTEC. Thanks for the recommendations!

I connected a phone charger to my bike one day and I've been having intermittent charging problems ever since. After a good ride the battery will be dead & I have to bump start it. It always starts right up too. I load tested the battery, that's OK I went by the shop manual & the alternator, regulator rectifier (aftermarket unit) & stator seem OK, but I'm no mechanic. I just had it checked by a local shop too & they said everything was OK. I went for a short 20 minute ride & the battery was dead again! I plan on riding to the MotoGP at Indy next month. HELP!! Bobbyn

Hi folks, Can I get someone to check the running voltage at the battery of their 3rd gen with the mosfet R/R - idle up to 3000 or 4000 RPM, please? I just put my replacement mosfet R/R in and am getting 13.80-13.85 volts at any and all RPM's. On the face of it that should be fine as the normal voltage of the AGM battery is 12.8 anyway. However, if I were to put in a LiFePo4 battery that won't be enough. They require 14.2 charging voltage. I do get that and a bit more with the original R/R. I keep asking myself why I changed it to get less output. Mind you, it is exceptionally stable voltage at all RPM's where the original R/R allows more variance depending on revs. Thanks, Glenn

I have had the usual RR - stator failure one too many times now so have just invested in the Mosfet RR from Roadstercycle.com, ne OEM stator from Honda and the VFRness from wiremybike.com. I'm not the best with the spanners but can follow idiot guides. What I need to know is, if anyone has fitted these and if so do you have a how to with pics/video? From what i can tell so far, the RR is not best suited to fit in the stock position, where have you fitted yours? Any photos or help appreciated TIA Moose

I know this has been beaten to death on here, but I would rather look a fool on here than not be riding. I have the notes from the last time I did this with my 5th gen, but everything looks different on the 6th gen. I have made great leaps in knowledge and confidence in regards to working on anything mechanical since getting into motorcycles, but I still have no confidence when it comes to electrical anything. Here are my notes from last time: Here is my problem - I know I need to check the R/R, but where do I stick the probes? There are so many wires and rubber cone shrouds that they all look the same. Same thing with the stator. Where is the connector that I need to test? I looked at so many posts, but none had pictures of a 6th gen. I swear if I can do this, I am going to document everything.

I specifically wanted a later model 6th gen for two reasons. Tweaked VTEC engagement and electrical gremlins to be worked out. I was getting ready to go for a ride with my favorite group of hooligans tonight. I told them I would meet them, I just wanted to run home to change into a warmer jacket since my mesh is too light for the 64 degree July we are having. I also decided to get gas. After I fill up and go to start the bike, it sloooooowwwwwly turns over. Clock is reset. Tripometer is reset. Lights are dim. G------ it. So I meet the guys and let them know that I am not going to risk it (they were literally a mile away from where I was) and I come home to park the bike. Beyond pissed at Honda at the moment. I know, I know... calm down. I'll do "The Drill" tomorrow, but tonight I want to piss and moan about it.

2003 VFR. New to me almost exactly a year ago. This is my 4th VFR (and the only one to ever have any electrical issues, at all). She HAS had the warranty harness thingy done in 2012 by PO. Read on: The ORIGINAL stator lasted for a pretty damn reasonable 52,XXX miles (11 years!), before finally croaking 13 days ago (Tue 5/20/14). I didn't know it was fried, that day, but that knowledge would come a few days later... I was told by the shop I took it to that morning of (Tue 5/20 - this happened on my ride to work), that my problem was my R/R and nothing else. I would normally have towed my bike straight to a different mechanic that I've been taking all of my bikes to for over a decade, but he had just banged up his spinal cord (Bruised it! Yes, you can do that!) in a race 48 hours earlier (Sunday) when he landed on his head, and was not answering his phone because he was in the hospital (of course, I didn't know this at the time). Point being, I would normally have access to a pretty electrically-inclined motochanic who knows pretty much all there is to know about motorcycle electronics, but since he was decidedly unavailable, I took it to "Lynnwood Motoplex", which was just a four block walk from my work - I figured they'd still be able to at least tell me what parts were having continuity problems and in need of replacement. Based on their assessment, I order a Rick's MOSFET regulator/rectifier (http://www.wiremybike.com/vfr-specific-parts-2002-2009-vfr-parts-2002-2009-regulator-rectifier-p-325.html) AND a VFRness (hadn't been done yet by PO, though the standard "wire harness under warranty" HAD, and it was NOT melted - I just wanted to be proactive and it had already been on my mind to do). The R/R and VFRness arrived a few days later (Friday before Memorial Day weekend), because I had it all shipped fast, and Tightwad (http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/user/11291-tightwad/) here on VFRD, busted his butt to make sure I had all I needed (well as far as I knew based on what Motoplex had told me...) to still be able to get my bike fixed up and be on the road for a long weekend of riding that had been planned for a long time. So, I install the R/R in the Motoplex parking lot, after work on Friday 5/23, and have my wife follow me home in our car, and everything seems to by jivin' just fine. The battery had been on trickle charge for three days and was topped off, so no concerns. IF I had had my plug-in voltage monitor with me (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1), it would have immediately told me that my stator was bad, but it was at home in a different riding jacket and, again, the mechanic "pros" at the shop had assured me the R/R was all I had to replace, so I blithely rode away toward home thinking I've fixed the problem. Except I only made it 7 miles. Tow #2 in 4 days. 3-day weekend of riding ruined. Fuck me. Dead bike: So, I took the (ruined) weekend to confirm what I already know - that the Motoplex mechanics had mis-diagnosed the problem (I don't actually KNOW that the original R/R was bad, because I didn't test it myself, and I didn't see them do it - I just trusted them), and that the stator is actually what was 100%, for sure, BAD. Yup: I order a new Rick's stator (via Tightwad aka wiremybike.com) and get it a few days later. It LOOKS like heaven in a box: So I get it installed... No issues with the install. Fire it up and bam, I'm back in business. Starts right up and I'm immediately at 14.45 volts, as soon as I turn it on: So, my dad and brother, who came all the way up here to Washington (from Cali) to ride for 3 days, along with a few other uncles/cousins and their friends, are as stoked as I am - we get to RIDE together (it's a rare thing because of being 1,000 miles away) for three whole days. So, wife and I mount up the next morning and take off to meet them in Tacoma (we live in Bellevue). No issues. Everything's purrin'. After lunch in Port Townsend, my bro and I branch off to pick up the pace a bit (with wife still on the back of my bike). Wife takes a pic of us boys in front of this rig: Go to turn the bike back on and nothin. I mean I have lights and the dash comes on, but the dreaded clock re-set means only one thing. I'm like, there's no fricking way the stator died after less than 160 miles and only being installed for like 18 hours. But, after some helpful folks sent us to Port Townsend Honda about an hour before they closed, we came across the truth. The mechanic had a multi-meter and we tested the stator connector (what connects to the R/R) to ground - each of the three connectors for yellow wires A/B/C, and there WAS continuity - which is bad. It should be infinity. See post # 4, here, for ref: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/78028-where-to-begin-looking-for-electrical-issues/?hl=continuity#entry948902 Just for the shit of it, and because we had like 5 hours of waiting around for a tow truck, we decided to check out the 160-mile-old Rick's stator, and lo and behold: Wife not happy about our situation: I can't 100% for certain blame the Rick's stator, not without getting back in to the bike (which we basically could only afford to have to towed to my uncle's in Yelm - was still $500), but for now, I'm going with it was a bad unit, and I can't recommend the Rick's STATORS. I have no problem with the MOSFET R/R they make, so far. The Rick's stator is being sent back for refund and analysis, but from what the folks at Port Townsend Honda were telling me, they refuse to buy the Rick's stators anymore because "their quality has gone downhill the last few years" (I'm using nicer words than they used) - they only use OEM stators for whatever kind of bike their working on, but especially Honda. I wish I had remembered if they had commented on if they still buy R/R's from Rick's, but I don't. The MOSFET - type that Rick's manufactures sounds to be advanced compared to the Honda OEM R/Rs, so I hope it keeps workin for me and everyone else who has a Rick's R/R. Will be putting in a Honda OEM stator probably next weekend and will re-Ox-gard everything and quadruple check everything else, but I'm pretty darn sure I just got a bad stator from Rick's and I don't intend to trust them again. By the way, this is a pretty damn good deal on our VFR Battery, if you're in the market for a new one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WK0ZA8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Okay, so you've installed a voltmeter and you're out on a ride and far from home. Scenario #1 : You see > 15V. The battery is getting overcharged. Do you disconnect the stator to r/r connector to protect your battery? So in effect you are running total loss and relying on the battery charge only. You could probably re-connect occasionally to charge up the battery. Scenario #2 : You see < 12V. The battery is not getting charged. Do you unplug headlights, if possible, and disconnect other current draws such as heated gear? What else can you do? Carrying a spare r/r might be a good idea since it is easy to swap out, a stator not so much. Any other thoughts or words of wisdom? I figure I may as well be able to do something other than curse at the voltmeter and give myself the best chance at success.

I read on here that when the charging system shows a low reading under 5k RPMs, it's an indication the R/R needs replacing. Is there a definitive way of knowing it's this and not the stator? Also, if I order an R/R from the dealership now, will it be better than the one they originally put on the bike? I thought I read somewhere it would be. I frequently go on long rides (I just got back from a 1,400+ mile journey) and would certainly not want to have problems out in the middle of nowhere. I started having problems about 40 miles from home (on the way back.) Thanks.

Hey all, I have a problem with my vfr rc46 Last march I had to change my regulator rectifier because it wasn´t giving enough power anymore. after changing it, the new regulator broke after only about 400km already. that cooked my battery and before I knew it I was by the roadside. Anyway, I changed the battery and the regulator again. now the bike won´t start anymore! I followed my maintenance book and figured that the cdi was broken. I changed it however and still nothing is happening! When I turn on the ignition I can´t hear the fuelpump running!? Can it be that with overcharging the fuelpump relay gives in? I don´t feel like ´just changing parts anymore by following the handbook. It´s costing quite some money when it proves that it´s something else. :( Any good suggestions are very welkom Globifer