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After months of scouring the internet it became apparent that my VFR was plagued by a similar issue that many have that has no apparent cure. Lumpy idling, stumbling upon acceleration and over all poor running. I did all of the Troubleshooting that's in the repair manual and all checked within spec. Even checking the balance of the starter valves - all was within spec. I have tried various combinations of he PAIR mod as well with very little success. There was a lot of recommendation to use a PowerCommander but there was generally a divide where it either exacerbated the problems or only mildly made them better. In my research I came across the RapidBike Racing and Evo modules. What piqued my interest with this module over the PowerCommander was this module utilizes the O2 sensors and has the ability to adjust the fueling in the lower spectrum of the RPM which cant be modified by simpler modules such as the PowerCommander. The biggest downside was the hefty price tag. a few more hundred over the PowerCommander. But the results reported by all seemed promising so I bit the bullet and ordered myself one. Well, it took nearly 2 months to receive which was incredibly disappointing especially specifically ordering directly through RapidBike Canada. None the less, I spent last week installing this module. I was't particularly pleased with trying to stuff this module under the seat (where we all know there is no space already) so i decided to make this installation as unobtrusive and inconspicuous as possible. Check out the photos. Its been about 400Km since I have installed the module and holy $H!T, I cannot express the difference this bike has in performance, smoothness, rideability and overall engine characteristics. The increase in low end torque is unreal! I have played around with a couple of the MAP settings in the module and its only getting better and better as the module self programs Km by Km. So for anyone who is suffering from a similar plague, I highly recommend the RapidBike Module.

So I rode my bike into work and when I went to start her for ride home. Seemed like my battery was dead... no problem there’s a jump box... famous last words... I get bike started and ride home about ten minutes. Park. Next day go to start bike. No power. Smh look down and notice my harness from ignition and start stop switch are melted and grounded out... uh o... well it’s early spring and I had just put new tires on and recovered my saddle.... so I’m thinking I’ll band aid this and just re solder ... pull everything off start soldering then decide, maybe cheap is not the way to go... So I order an aftermarket ignition (still being cheap... fu*%&$) And put it and a used switch back on. Nothing no power lights at all.... Look at main fuse looks ok. Look through ignition info that came with it, realized that this ignition works w vfr but not wired/connected as such... unplug, finish soldering original toasty ignition. Plug in, Nothing... Well that was last year... Fortunately I have another bike so I was able to ride at least part of the season... (on my bike I don’t have a new set of tires on :(. ) So my question is.... 1.What might I have f’d up either by using a boost box to jump? 2. By shorting out with improperly wired aftermarket ignition 3. Other than main fuse any other fuses or electrical components I should test first? rectifier? computer? Thanks for any insight. Much appreciated!

Hi all. Could anyone help me with another issue with my 2009 VFR800? The bike's 'behaviour' changes all the time, at times it feels like a super awesome smooth motorcycle, lots of power, but then it changes - the bike would become rough, powerless, would hesitate accelerating and while passing 2500-3000rpm would vibrate and make 'almost stalling' sounds. Also, the cold idle rpm is different between starts, and if it starts with lower rpm it would ride bad. When the bike gets hot, the rpm corrects itself to whatever I set the last time, but the issues would not go away. Another thing is - it seems there's some hesitation between cylinders fire, after every several successful fires, like that - *, *, *, *, slight delay, *, *, *, *, *, slight delay, etc.... The number of ok fires seems to be four-something. It also sounds like the bike is backfiring at idle from one of the exhausts. It's very difficult for me to explain this properly due to gaps in my english, sorry. This whole issue drives me crazy, because its so inconsistent and at times the bike is great, but when it's in a 'bad mood' I really want to get rid of it the bike. It's been like that since I bought it, and all the stuff I did never really helped, but things like PC5 improved the situation for a while, but it seems its getting worse after time. The bike has - - O2 Eliminators - PC5 (Dynojet's fuel map for LeoVince Exhaust) - LeoVince Exhaust - PAIR hose blocked I also had the spark plugs changed at 15000 kms, its 20 000 kms now.

Hi All: I've got a new to me 2000. Its got a k&n and will soon have a delvick on it. I want to look into a mapping system but do not seem to find much except maps in the download section. Do ya'll think I'll need something? Realistically I want the bike to run well but it is my street bike. I have another go faster bikes. I want your thoughts on Power commanders or other FI modules. What one would I get? I would like more power, who wouldn't but the bike will remain mostly stock. It will have an air filter and pipe, what can I expect from a fuel management system I'd be very happy with 100hp at the rear wheel.

I've admitted it several times before, I am ignorant about many things, Electricity being at the top of the list. In the past, I had multiple things running straight to the battery for power. This time I told myself that I would do it right. So I started looking into fuse blocks. This is where the problem begins. It's not that I am having trouble finding them online, I am finding too much and I am going into information overload. I don't get what a relay is and why it is necessary or why it isn't part of the fuse block. It's like explaining hard disk partitioning to someone who doesn't understand bit sizes much less file allocation tables. So my question to you people that are far more experienced than I is this; What should I get? I do not need much. I know my requirements. I will have minimal accessories in the beginning, but I want room to grow a little bit. Here is what I plan on using: I only want power to accessories when the bike is running. Cell phone - I will only be using it for music and GPS. I want to have it on a ball mount on the steering stem. 12 volt power outlet - just for versatility. In the future, I would like to add the following: Heated grips or maybe heated jacket/gear. Dedicated GPS So it appears at the minimum I will need 4 powered lines. For a fuse block, I am wanting the simplest installation and usage. Try to image Lennie from Of Mice & Men hooking this thing up. Wire(s) to the battery, secure under the seat, then wire to the accessories. The ones that I have looked at but seem to be either overkill or overly complicated. PDM60 for example. My friend (scguy) bought the PDM60 and appears to have had nothing but trouble with it. Even if it was a perfect solution, it is pretty expensive and requires Windows to program it. I know I will not need that level of control over it. Then there is the "roll your own" Eastern Beaver setups. This looks like the route that mello dude would go. But the installation makes me uncomfortable. So what do you guys recommend?

Curious... has anyone heard of / used the "Booster Plug"? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BoosterPlug-Honda-VFR800-VTEC-2002-2013-RC46-Forget-the-Power-Commander-/111613527059?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19fcaf4413&vxp=mtr I have a PCV for my '02, so its not something I'm interested in, but I came across it on eBay and it is cheaper (but not so cheap you already know the answer) which made me wonder if it worked or not...

I bought my bike with an aftermarket muffler/end can branded 'Fuel' already fitted - made here in UK as far as I can tell http://fuelexhausts.com/ - with standard headers and collector box. It sounded pretty good, not too loud but much better than stock. However, last week I was in a tinkering mood and decided to remove the baffle just for fun. It now sounds like a NASCAR and feels more responsive on the throttle - also feels like i've gained 10bhp! Is that my imagination? Is it the fine sounding exhaust convincing me or is there actually quite a bit to be liberated from these engines?

For some markets the VFR has less power than it should, specally the Japanese market bikes. I wounder how are they restricted? How easy to make back to full power? For the VFR400 I have been reading of different cdi units. How about other models? Most intrested in the 1986-89 models (RC24) but later also free to discuss if you know.

I have been approached about the idea of a manual fan control that would allow you to: Turn the fan on early turn the fan off (to reduce power draw) allow normal mode Another feature requested would be indicator lights that would show: What status is selected If the fan is turned off but the bike wants it on (blinking LED etc)...could even be audible alarm What I am trying to determine is if there is interest in this on a wider scale. I have never felt the need to change how my fan operates but i spend little time in heavy traffic and I don't do track days or other cases that are different. My bike rarely runs hot although I have considered a manual "on" switch for the summer in the past. Another outstanding question is....self powered or bike powered. I could personally go either way...the default operaton (even with the unit off) would be for the fan to operate as normal....so no harm if the battery dies on a self powered unit. Feedback?

1984 vf750 interceptor is my project. Was running last year ,turns over but no spark checked and cleaned most of the connections and the contacts, charged brand new batt. Tried kill switch on/off, kickstand up/down, clutch in/out ,neutural/in gear whats my problem? all my lights are working just no spark what am i missing?