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Does anyone have (or know where I can get) a USB Power Commander 3 (for a 98/99 VFR800) ? The part number should be "101-401". I could also use "101-411" which some have reported can work just as well on a 98/99 with updated firmware. Unfortunately, I got taken by a scammer who was taking pics from the web and pretending it was their own. Last time I send any $ to a member who doesn’t have more history, reputation, posts, etc. (or ID verification). Oh well, my bad. Still looking for the PC4 though… Thanks in advance.

Well, I hope this sheds light on things and helps people with their electrical woes... hope it helps me too hahahaha. :blink: My bike's history: 2003 VTEC (Spain: so no wiring harness nor stator recall) Installed VFRness around 55000 km. 1st stator fried at around 65000 km Replaced with aftermarket stator. Short time later R/R fried (dead battery put me onto it... stator readings were fine) Replaced both 2nd stator fried at 75000 km Replaced with OEM stator and replaced R/R (aftermarket) and battery (YTZ14s) just in case. Few days later the stator-R/R connector fried. Cut out the connector from the equation and hardwired stator to R/R. 85000 km (just the other week) I was going over the electrical system and noticed the 3 yellow wires dowstream from stator-R/R connector (that is to say: between this connector and the R/R) getting very hot... disconnected it to take stator readings... fine... connected it back up and it started to smoke... shut off bike and curse Mother Honda and the horse she rode in on. Discovered that one of the yellow wires was so hot you couldn't even touch it... the others were relatively cool (they will warm up, this is normal, but usually you can keep hold on them for several seconds at least... even longer is better). So my question to myself and fellow VFR buddies was... R/R or Stator?? An engineer friend of mine who deals with this stuff all day long had the brilliant idea of pulling the hot one and taking readings to see if at least this might get one back home... it probably would work if you disconnected one headlight and were real smooth on the throttle as the rectification of the AC volts would no longer level peak voltage into a smooth DC wave... and if you're radiator fan weren't coming on all the time (i.e. cool ambient temps)... and you didn't spend too long with the motor idling.... anyway, this is just a long-way-from-home desperate-act-of-survival tip... So, in order to eliminate R/R or Stator as the culprit, we swapped the order of the wires around... let's call the female half of the connector (stator side) F and the male half (R/R side) M... so wire-wise we have the stock order of F1-M1, F2-M2, F3-M3. The M side wires are the ones getting hot and we had removed these from the white plastic housing and stuck them into the female housing in a different order... previously F1-M1 would get hot (well, really M1, but M1 connected into F1)... if we rearranged things, as in F1-M2, F2-M3, F3-M1... then if F1-M2 were the one heating up, the rpoblem would probably reside in the stator side of things... but actually F3-M1 was the one getting BBQ hot... so it was fairly certain the R/R was fugged... While we were at it, we decided to check out the (famous over here in Spain) BYC... bit like KFC... Big Yellow Connector (read "Kentucky Fried Connector")... this is a reasonably large yellow connector through which a whole bunch of ground wires run, in the front subharness... it's not really large in size, but there are 12 wires running through it... each of a different thickness (guage)... three thicker ones and the rest are puny. This connector seems to join all sorts of ground wires (seemingly from sensors and the like) but with the surprising effectiveness of an ashtray on a VFR. Nill, null, zero, ziltch, none and sweet f-a effectiveness. It's a piece of crap and hardly creates any decent connections whatsoever. So we eliminated the connector, twirled the ends together and wrapped another section of cable around this (to bolt the other end of this to ground on the chassis) and soldered the lot with a torch solderer... I can say my VTEC transition and Fi system in general is running smoother so this probably means the ECU is receiving proper readings from sensors now because the surging issues had been getting intolerable lately. I'm currently running a second hand OEM R/R a buddy lent to me for the meantime... Although I picked up, courtesy of Josh (Tightwad) at Wiremybike.com... the supposedly YOU-BEAUT mofset supercool R/R unit... so I'll be installing it this weekend to see how it goes... thing is it doesn't have the B&W feedback... so wondering if I should wire in the one from the VFRness (which I currently have completely disconnected) or not bother... I'm getting a stable 14,3 V with the 2nd hand OEM R/R... battery reads 12,9... Seems OK but it used to give out 14,6 V... before all this. Keen to try out the Mofsetter... 'cause I'm about to give up on the VTEC forever.... hope this helps people... Link to 5th gen equivalent: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553

Not a question, sorry for a wrong section. Hello from Russia! I found these books by chance ;) Hope it will be useful! Haynes_Honda_VFR800_02-09.pdf Haynes_Honda_VFR800_97-01.pdf Clymer_Honda_VFR800_98-00.pdf

Hi all, this good friend gets stopped and the cops really insist that the VIN on the steering head has been done over. The reason they suspect is that the rectangle around the numbers is shiny, seems to have been polished (but it wasn't). I'm having another friend who has a sandblaster do a bit of brushing to make the area less shiny. In the meantime, we are curious as to what it looks in other bikes. (yes I know... cops and alternative revenues... 😠 ) Would anyone kindly take a pic and send it over?, ( superfreak77@gmail.com ). I'm attaching here what this one looks like. Many thanks! - PS: I'm in SW Mexico and often host or otherwise hook up with riders who come by, SO COME BY!. (The owner of this 5th gen is the club's orthopedic surgeon).

I'm contemplating ordering the Knight Design lower pegs for my 1998 VFR800. For those that have tried the KD lowering pegs on their 1998 - 2001 VFR800, I have a question: What did you do about adjusting the brake pedal height? With the stock pegs, I have about 1/8" of threads left on the adjustment end of the brake pushrod. If I used all that adjustment, that would translate to roughly 3/8 " at the pedal which wouldn't be enough for me. How did you guys get past the issue of the limited range of adjustment in the brake rod? Thanks. - Walt

Hi everyone, I am trying to put a 1998 vfr back on the road and am having trouble bleeding the brakes. The bike has 17,xxx miles and was rideable as purchased but ran rough and didn't start easily. I have already done a tune up, added a VFRness, replaced and rebuilt the forks (bent in an accident), greased the head bearings, changed coolant, added speed bleeders all around and replaced all the brake pads. Clutch has already been bled and the lever feels very firm. There is also a long list of missing bits and broken plastic to deal with in time. Unfortunately the manual doesn't make much sense to me since I'm not using a vacuum bleeder. Bare with me as I try to explain. I have already used a few bottles of brake fluid attempting the bleed the brakes and all fluid is coming out clear. I'm attempting to bleed in this order: Front right caliper top bleeder (pump at hand lever), front right caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), front left caliper top bleeder (with caliper removed and tilted to help air escape, pumped at hand lever and secondary master cylinder), front left caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper front bleeder (pump at foot lever), rear caliper center bleeder (pump at foot lever), and then bled at the proportion valve (foot lever). The rear brakes feels strong but the front lever is weak. I repeated this procedure when I continued to see air bubbles rising from the proportion valve bleeder, but I believe this is related to the secondary master cylinder. With all bleeders closed and pressing the rear brake lever firmly down I can hear some gurgling or squeaking in the lines up front. I can also hear something strange with the system closed and pumping the secondary cylinder manually. It feels like it's not moving much fluid, and appears to be moving barely any fluid at all out of the proportion valve bleeder when opened. However, pumping the secondary master cylinder appears to add air to the lines, because when I pump the secondary cylinder by hand and then press on the foot lever I get a lot of air out of the proportion valve. I have repeated this ad nauseum with four bottles of brake fluid to no improvement. The secondary master cylinder continues to feel like it hasn't been primed and just sloshes fluid back and forth, and whenever I pump the secondary and go to back to the proportion valve air bubbles still come out. Any advice?

Wanted to say thank you to all the members and mods on VFR Discussions for all the knowledge, help, and guidance. I have my 5th gen up for sale due to the fact that I recently picked up a 2006 ST3 Ducati. After weighing all the pros and cons on switching bikes, the Ducati is a much better fit for what I'm looking for in a sports touring mount. The resource this forum gives to VFR owners is second to none. Again, thanks and please be safe out there! Scott Lane Maryville, TN

New guy here! My name is Ryan and I am the proud new owner of a 99 VFR800. I currently own two 1984 Honda Nighthawk 700S's and love them, but wanted something a bit different. Ask Marriedman, I've been interested in VFRs for a little while now. I wasn't seriously searching when I came across the Craigslist ad. The price caught my eye, $1600. I figured at that price, it had to have been laid down, or crazy high miles, or a combination of both. Called the number, talked with the guy, he said that he took it in on a group buy from an elderly man with some flat tracker bikes he wanted. His son (16) wanted the bike, and he didn't want his son on "no dad-blamed crotch rocket." A friend and I drove up to Tennessee from my place in South Carolina. The bike was solid, bone stock, 13,000 miles, but with less than 2,000 miles in the last 11 years. Fairings were all original with no cracks or scratches, just faded Florida paint. Tires are 13 years old and hard as a rock. Battery was dead, and I couldn't hear it run. Somehow, the ignition key didn't match the fuel filler cap, and the fuel cap key had been lost. The seller knocked $100 off because of this, so I drove away with the VFR for $1500. A nice view on the way home: And unloaded: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First off: Diagnose the no start. Drilled fuel cap lock cylinder, poured in gas. Fuel pump runs, still no start Compression check was good. Had strong spark. 42 psi fuel pressure Houston, we have injector pulse. There's only about one thing left: gummed up fuel injectors. Yep, there's the problem! Let's look in the tank... Yep, just what I thought. Remove rust from tank - added to the To Do list. Here's where I'm at now: Needs: Battery (ordering Motobatt) Chain and sprockets (ordering DID Xring and JT sprockets) Oil Change Clutch and Brake fluid flushed Coolant change Ordered: Tires - Michelin Pilot Road 3's Deals: Yoshimura RS3 stainless slip on Givi top rack Givi E35 top box ^ Package Deal - $335 shipped OE seat cowl in 9/10 shape - $25 shipped Done: Installed TPO Parts PAIR delete kit New NGK spark plugs Cleaned fuel injector inlet screens Most importantly, she needed a name. Gentlemen, I introduce to you, Vanessa. I've got a decent bit of work ahead, but that's the fun part. Can't wait for riding season! Stay tuned for updates... RD

When I turn the ignition on, the odometer displays 188888 or something similar, then goes completely blank after the bike finishes 'starting up'. Running or not running makes no difference with it. Trip meter works, speedometer works, tachometer works. Back of the dash has no burnt connectors or wiring. What should I look at next?

I want to establish that this is not another 5th Gen vs 6th gen thread. Well, at least I don't want it to be one. I think we can all agree that popular opinion states that the 5th gen was the pinnacle of VFR's. The perfect balance of sport and touring. And again, popular opinion is that the 6th gen was more refined and more touring than sport. I have found that most of the pictures that I have saved on my computer are of 6th gens rather than 5th. I am still a relatively new rider. I have only had 3 years of riding experience. I started on a 250, moved up to a 750 Nighthawk and finally my 99. The 250 was great at learning the basics of motorcycling. The 750 was perfect at letting me discover what kind of rider I wanted to be. The 5th gen VFR is almost the perfect bike for me. There were many factors on the reason I purchased my VFR. Primarily because of the popular opinion that the 5th gen were "the best". The rest of the reasons apply to both the 5th and 6th gens. Now that I am getting more serious about riding, I am finding that some of my notions were based upon opinion and not fact. One thing that bothers me is that if the 5th gen were truly the best, why was it only made 4 years and the 6th were produced for twice as long? Yes the sound of the gear whine is cool, but I find that I am more attracted to the sound of the exhaust. And speaking of exhaust, I think we can all agree that the 6th gen is just sexy as hell. The undertail exhaust helps show off the SSSA too. Accessories for the 6th gen are also far more accessable than for my 5th. The 6th also has some advances technologically speaking that are compelling. I would really love to have ABS. And from what I have read, maintenance is about the same level of difficulty for both generations. I have come to the conclusion that the VTEC issue is not really an issue at all to me. If it was really so bad, it wouldn't have been used for 8 years. That and Honda makes a quality product. I am seriously considering attempting to trade my 5th for a 6th. But honestly I don't know if I am just pining for something I don't have. Sometimes wanting something is better than having it. I am not an agressive riding really. Sure I have hit 100 mph, but that is rare. More often than not I just cruise around if I am not taking trips. What do you guys think, does it sound like a 6th gen would be a better fit for me, or am I just wanting something because I don't have it?

SO after my regulator went in my 99 vfr and fried a few things Ive got it back after some unfortunate honda dealership hourly labour charges. I asked them to leave as much as possible alone to avoid further costs and some left over problems (aside from a few bulbs being burnt out which is a nice cheap fix) are that my running headlights don't work. The highbeams work fine though. And also the right side turn signals are acting funny. Its blinking really fast and the rear right turn signal wont come on at all. The bulb is good cause it works when I pop it in the brake light. The front one goes on but blinks fast and the blinker on the dash goes fast to. The left side is all good, normal blink speed and both front and back work fine. So no running headlights but fine high beams and weird right side turn signals.... I think in a car there is a part that controls the speed that turn signals go but no ideas about bikes. And wondering if the headlights could just be in need of a bulb replacement but thought Id ask before buying anything I might not need.