Captain 80s

The spring on the Fox comes off really easy. Back off the pre-load adjuster, slide the lower stop up and remove the split ring. You could do some better pre-cleaning before the shock service and maybe save a few bucks. Suspension techs really don't like grungy shocks and forks when they get them. You could at least ensure a more positive attitude towards your shock. Could also prep and re-paint your spring if you are so inclined.

I think it is a very good idea to add one. You can find them pretty thin if needed. It's undue stress on the threads, and the whole system, without it in my opinion. Even though it can't actually back-out or go anywhere. But I don;t see any problem with the clevis itself as long as it passes inspection for cracks, damage or failing weld. It def looks like a stock Honda clevis.

Looks like somebody extracted the clevis off of a stock shock and adapted it to the Fox. I did something similar on the RC26 adapting a Fox Shock from a CBR.

I might have a whole linkage piece you can have for a very attractive price if interested. Also, perhaps instead of a bolt you might come up with a clevis pin from McMaster or Grainger that is the right size.

The center collar of the stock bushing is thick wall and as I said, doesn't move or spin. It can take the factory torque of the clevis bolt. It appears somebody was "fixing" a problem that likely didn't exist.

That's not the stock bushing. Not sure if you know that.

Hmmmm..... something doesn't seem right. The collar should be vulcanized into the rubber of the bushing. If worn / damaged, the whole bushing gets pressed out and replaced. The inner collar is not meant to spin or be removed from the bushing.

The only thing it sounds like 29 year old you did wrong was not use a torque wrench. Hell, a couple of the bolts I don't bother on either because the access is so bad. The lower clevis mount used to bug me too, it didn't make sense. Why would every other bolt have a bearing and shaft and allow for movement? I have the correct parts, nothing is missing and there is a torque value in the Service Manual. It was designed by Honda that way and I just stopped worrying about it. With it all assembled, the movement is smooth and not binding. I realized that it doesn't need to pivot. The way the linkage is designed, everything else is responsible for pivoting. What little fore/aft movement the shock does need is handled by the upper shock mount.

No rabbit hole. Just experience. Don't turn this into something it's not. Starting points is all we're talking about. Respectfully, I was not trying to make this an oil thread. PLEASE DON'T.

A 110/90-16? Who puts that tire back on? What is the difference from a 120/80-16? Slide the forks up 10mm to start. I'm all about getting that ass in the air, but the geometry of that bike can take getting the front down a bit too. Plus you don't need it tilting at 45 degrees on the side stand with the stock 18" rear. I have some VFRs with forks slid up more than that with a 2.5-17 wheel and there are no clearance issues and it is solid as can be with zero hints of any head shake.

If the shock still has rebound and compression damping and is not leaking, great. If you had a shop near you to recharge the nitrogen, that would be cool. Full service on the Fox Shocks is getting expensive these days, I have 3 I need to have done for future projects. $$$ Thor Lawson's Service Fox Parts Stock length on the 86 is 265mm, 87 is 275. The 87 has a different linkage piece (the one that connects to the shock) to compensate, both bikes have the same ride height. Installing a 87 shock on a 86 for extra rear ride height was a popular choice on a budget, and the 87 shock was a "better" shock, the damping circuits were separate. Old tech now, obviously. Your Fox Twin Clicker is/was a great shock. I would set yours to at least 275, or whatever it is now if already longer.

You can absolutely slide everything apart, clean (tub of gas and a toothbrush) and regrease the bearings, shafts and seals without damaging the seals. Been doing it for decades. The linkage bearings have a limited travel range and the needle bearings spread the load so much, they rarely "wear out". I have never had to replace bearings or seals after cleaning and inspection. Some shafts might show some wear patterns, but it is not anything that is usually detectable by measuring or tactile "inspection".

Merica!!!

Love it!

With the shock out and the wheel off, did you ever identify where it hits that stops further swingarm extension? That is your answer. That is the difference between your two bikes. Whether it is something that can be addressed and improved is another question. There could be a change between those years (exhaust?), that didn't matter regarding swingarm extension with a stock length shock.

Yet, here you are. So.... Thursdays are "safe" days? 😉

Man, the cert expires and a tumbleweed rolls thru VFRDeadwood.

Not in my world. FUCK FB.

Thank you for all of your hard work and time maintaining a great platform. I joined in November 2005... almost 20 years ago! I learned a bunch and passed on some knowledge too. Exactly what makes these forums great. Enjoy life and thanks again. -Mike

This is the exhaust thread. He's talking about eye candy encouragement for people considering getting in on the next run of exhausts.

There is weirdly a distinct lack of "bearing houses" in the US. Well, at least here in the PNW. But I do still kit my own quality wheel bearings and seals.

This. ^ Every time a customer or friend has said, "I must have got a bad seal", my eyes can't roll back in my head far enough. "Did you inspect the tube for rock dings or nicks and stone them out?" Cue the dumbest, blankest look you can imagine right now. There's usually a very apparent reason your seal failed if you've been riding the bike and it hasn't failed from sitting for years and then bringing the bike out of hibernation. And when I take their forks apart because "they give up", I find rock dings and terrible workmanship. I don't know how many installs or miles it will take to move some aftermarket seals into the category of, "hmmmm.... maybe they are just fine." For some people, never I suppose. That's fine, cuz it's not my money or time and it doesn't really matter to me I suppose. But I own about 40 bikes, 12 of them VF/VFRs. The costs add up and there are real savings for me when building or servicing another bike, with no apparent repurcussions I've experienced. Rock dings (and super hard dried bugs) happen, but it's never been a seal's fault for me. Flame me. Ridicule me. Tell me, "you'll see". Fine, I'll be here building another VFR.

Same. I installed both a bushing and seal kit in some CBR600F2 forks on a front end swap as an experiment. Zero issues in 7 years.

I keep them on a lot of my bikes when they don't look totally out of place, but I find I'm wanted to clean some things up that didn't use to bother me as much. Probably because I'm buying and building more bikes that never had them.

I'm interested to hear the feedback regarding what a real radiator guy has to say about these units, and the fitment report from you.