fallzboater

I've always liked your bike as is. Be bold, man! If you do go white (chick's bike), I'd say silver wheels. I like the chrome smoke pc that someone (teleskier?) has posted. I've been scrubbing in my new Diablos on Canyon Rd. between Lyle and Appleton, WA, after work the last couple of days. Damp, and some cinders, but Oh what fun it is! I'm tempted to try a Fossil/Antelope ride this weekend, but I don't know if they've put anything on the roads down there.

C'mon, carbon fiber stickers all over the bike would go great with a Thurn single-nut-look hubcap! You know you all want them.

What are you trying to say, that the NR was too heavy, too slow, and too expensive? They do make great museum pieces, though.

Would split lengths of garden hose work as rim-savers? I have a buddy with a breaker, but I think he uses some sort of tire irons.

Let us know what their reply is, if you get one. You can almost always get the correct sag by varying preload (may require different spacers), but you can still have less than optimal rates. It'd also be interesting to know what their spring rate range is.

That's Hyperpro's marketing jargon, but I agree that a well-designed progressive-rate spring would not have an immediate transition between two greatly differing rates. I think if you measured most other progressive springs you wouldn't see a sharp inflection point like on Hyperpro's conceptual graph. They may sell the best progressive springs (and call them rising rate); all I know is that most suspension tuners will perscribe linear springs of an appropriate rate for the application. Hyperpro Here's another thing that bothers me about Hyperpro. If you look up your bike, they will recommend one spring part number. It doesn't matter if you're a 100 lb solo rider, or 350 lb two-up plus luggage. Just like OEM, they're expecting the progressive windings to handle everthing, just by varying the amount of preload. Not going to work. Hyperpro may do a better job than Honda (fork springs too soft for almost everybody) at selecting appropriate rates, but they're still only going to be optimal for a relatively small range of weights.

Progressive-wound springs are rising-rate. Standard slider forks are linear, but rear suspension geometry can be designed to be rising-rate, linear, or falling-rate. In reality, the rate will change somewhat through the suspension travel. Progressive springs are good for accomodating a wide range of rider weights while providing compliance and bottoming resistance, so it makes sense on stock bikes. IMO, linear is better for setting up the suspension for a specific rider.

Tim, I've got a good left switchgear you can have for free if you want one to play around with. It might be possible to add switches for other devices.

I'm still planning on trying the HARD with my V1. If it's bright enough during the day, does it tend to completely blind you at night? I don't ride much at night, but I suppose I could turn it off then, since the V1 is a lot more visible.

Anyone know anything about this NR streetfighter? Reminds me of my old Hawk GT.

I hadn't heard that you found some 98/99 headers. If so, get them Jet-Hotted. Rather than adjusting the valves, take the heads off that spare motor you got and have some fun. Mild port/polish, deck for higher compression (maybe check piston/valve clearance first), let's see 120+ Hp out of a VTEC.

The easy way seems to be to release the two forward clips (rear can stay attached), then move the bag back and set it on the saddle. Not as easy as a mag bag, but not too bad. It seems to snug down pretty tight, so I'm sure it'll be fine in a cross-wind. The first pic is of the bag detached from the base, which is pretty easy, but I just did that to show the mounting a little better. Normally, I think you'd only remove the bag from the base if you were going to swap it onto a magnetic or rear-seat base. However, if you want to ride the bike without the bag, there's nowhere to stow the straps without removing them, which takes a couple of minutes. One option I might try is making a hole in the base for fuel cap access, and leaving the base on most of the time I'm not using the bag. I think anyone would be really pleased with the bag for that price (magnetic is available for a few bucks more). The map pocket is large and zips off the top, there are internal organizer pockets, a wallet, a belt-pack, back-pack shoulder strap, and a rain cover included. Damn, I love this bike. I hadn't been on it in about 3 weeks; so I warmed it up in the driveway (rattles the windows on my house), and took it around town and down about two miles of freeway without earplugs. Too wet out to let it rip, but man, do I love the sound and feel.

got a pic? i may do the same for the mille I got bored and went for a quick spin today. Not too cold, but really sloppy out. I hate to ride when it's wet and the dust from the red rock they put on the roads gets all over the bike. The bag is really a perfect height; I can lean my chest into it on the highway, but it doesn't get in the way.

Same problem here in the Columbia River Gorge (40+ mph gusty crosswinds at times). I had my small Marsee blow off a couple of times, but I also didn't have the safety strap attached (lost it). I now have a large Marsee strap-on, which I bought because my current bike has a plastic tank. It's definitely less convenient, but more secure. Excellent deal on some big Marsee bags at SierraTradingPost.com right now. I bought the 35L strap-on for $64.

One possible advantage of the big Marsee bags is that they zip onto one of three types of bases: strap-on, magnetic, or rear seat (straps laterally instead of longitudinally). The booklet the comes with the bag shows these, but If you go to their website they don't show them, since these are discontinued models. I might see if I can find the rear seat base, since I never carry a pillion and this position might be better in the twisties, and when it's expanded.

I just got the Marsee 35L strap-on bag and tried it out on the Falco. The straps are certainly secure, but with a steel tank, the magnetic bags would certainly be more convenient. The 35L bag isn't as big as I thought it would be in its normal position, and fits great on a 5+ gallon tank. Expanded to its full height, it's very tall and totally obscures the gages. Check out these deals if you're looking for a bag. SierraTradingPost

I have a custom-fit Aerostich 1-piece which I wear all the time on the street, and used for my first track day last fall. I borrowed a full back protector (kidney belt and shoulder straps), and have since bought one (Dianese). I now feel naked without the back protector, but I'm sure it'll be hot in the summer. Many track day organizations will allow certain textile suits in the novice class. I'm a bit hard to fit, so I'm sure a custom 1-piece would be the ideal, but I don't think I'm going to be on the track enough to justify it. I think the best deal for me is going to buy the Alpinestars Track Pants (now available in long sizes) for about $300, and mate that to an eBay Alpinestars Stage or TZ-1 jacket for about $150. The jacket will be a bit short in the sleeves, but should be fine with roadrace type gloves (long gauntlets). The Alpinestars stuff uses a different type of zipper than most, so the pants won't mate without other jackets without some additional work. I figure I'll wear this setup for maybe 1/3 of my street riding, too. I bought a pair of the Gaerne GR-S (I think) roadrace boots last fall, which I like a lot. Sidis might be even better, but I couldn't find as a good a deal.

hey! just noticed how close! 1....2 .... more closer :mellow: Not fair, let's see at least some content!

You think you can break 3k posts today?