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You would have a better point if the hole was in a stressed area of the arm, where the hole is now, very little stress if any gets put on that area. Given the size of the hole, the location, the thickness of the swingarm, etc, I am not worried in the least that the arm was compromised to any degree. I am not saying that there was no change, but it's far from making the arm weak enough to break or cause problems. The 5th gen/VTEC arm is thicker/heavier/stronger than the previous gens to begin with.

Thanks for the input guys, I gotta check out that nylon bushing. RRW, you're right about the burrs and chips, but in this case, it's a matter of doing the job 100%. You can do whatever you like on your own bike, but I would want the chips out to do away with the risk of excessive wear/binding the swingarm. As for cutting the line, you can do it that way, but there is actually a how-to video posted above which was made by the folks who produce the line, showing the chisel as the best method. I do have a set of instructions at home from a previous job that show your method, so I'm sure either way works well. What I found is that using the chisel or a pair of cutters leaves a nice clean edge on the teflon hose inside. Lorenzo, I've used the foam trick on my VF750 swingarm, and many newer models come from the factory with a form of this used(the 600RR for example), as it as a tiny bit of rigidity, and keeps vibration frequencies down in these complex parts.

Not to mention, knowing the nature of this country, what do you think is going to quadruple(or more) in price once we -as a whole nation- decide to switch to E-vehicles instead of gas? That's right, electricity. Leave it to a few greedy people to ruin a good thing for millions. Sorry to sound pessimistic, but please try to convince me otherwise.

I spent 13 days o nthe road, if it hadn't been for the camping gear, the tank and saddlebags would have been enough. As I said, the Space Saver bags are waterproof, and you should pack everything in plastic bags anyway. Even if you have hard bags, your stuff will get wet when you open them... Glory shot.jpg Coronado Trail.jpg

Lose the tailbag, it'll hurt the most in the twisties. To me, a tankbag is essential, saddlebags optional. I swear by Space Saver bags for packing clothes for a trip. Waterproof, and really do save lots of space.

Finally got through and paid for the, ahem - uh, what am I paying for??? $45 to find out the tube is not bent? Hmm. Great. Now I have to check the slider. Good thing I have a bike to ride, or something(s) would be flying in the air getting broken right now. $7 to ship the tube to PA via USPS, $27 for labor, $15.xx for them to ship back via UPS, plus $1.73 for tax. Effing wonderful. And I don't know what the problem is, yet. I had put the edge of a metal part on it when I suspected it was bent, and it looked like it was out. Mike Hartman @ GMD Computrack(located in the North American Warhorse dealership in Scranton, PA), says it's well within tolerance. ??????????????????????????

Check out the "More fun" tab on that site, there is a yellow 6th gen in the pics!!

Just put it on today, the parts are all used, not new. I hate buying used electrics but this seemed like to good of a deal. Seems like it's all working but needs some tweaking. Once the headers go on, I have a custom map from the PO to try, as well as Jason's. Not sure if Stephane ever posted his. Or maybe I'll have to get my own big $$ tuning done so that it's correct for my altitude, humidity, sock color, etc etc.

I got a set of catless headers with PC3 and the Dynojet resistors. I put the resistors and the PC in today, the resistors have a factory-style plug, so yes, the fit is good. No idiot lights on the dash, so I assume they are working...? I hate working on elec"tricks", but I do own a voltmeter, if someone cares to explain a test to me. Won't get to it till tomorrow after work though.

Anyone else notice a funk between 3-5k rpms running this map? I just put it in, running Staintunes, Dynojet O2 elims, and stock filter(probably dirty at 16k mi). On startup, got some afterfire with no throttle application(popping right off the bat, little smoke), smoothed out after a couple small tugs on the grip. Noticed the extra noise too, seems a couple db louder??(not that there's anything wrong w/ that!) Out on the road (50 deg F), seems to pull better, pulls straight through VTEC @ 7k(never had a problem w/ it before, but I could feel the dip, seems to be gone now), HOWEVER - my bike was always real smooth at any rpm, roll the gas to any number, hold it, rpms stay put, no surging/on-off power feel. Now, I bring it to 3.5/4.5/5k(cruising rpm), and I have surging. Feels like sh-t. Almost feels like a really loose chain, but my chain is fine... Maybe the map is tuned for this surging that I never had, and now I get the opposite effect?? I'll ride it to work tomorrow, then I'm going to try the baseline map off Dynojet's site and try that. Just curious to know if someone else had that happen. I love the PC in my F4i, my favorite part is that the on/off feel from 0 throttle position is gone(map from their site for F4i/K&N/Hindle slip-on), and smooth, direct throttle response throughout the rpm range. That's all I was hoping for on the VFR, I don't mind the VTEC transition. Surging sucks!!

Well, I got my Avon Storms mounted on the wheels! The front looks sweet, but the rear, not so much. Using the 160/70 series tire really looks funky... Got the swingarm on the bike today, I had to bead blast and paint a few more parts like the suspension linkages before I could put it on. once it was in, I stuck the rear wheel and tire under the bike, and confirmed my fear. Right now, it looks like ass. The tire is huge, really tall, it looks like a truck tire in there! Hopefully, once the front end goes together, it will be more in proportion and won't look too bad. Maybe I'm just so used to seeing the bare frame sitting there on its own... The fork tube is still with GMD Computrack. I did speak to Mike Hartman, he received it and it is fixable, but they were closed today when I tried to call and check on it. Hopefully I'll find out more tomorrow.

Like an unfinished hot rod? :fing02: Where's my dollar?!? :beer: :goofy:

Love the blue, but too much white IMO. Looks like a pair of basketball shoes I used to own... Where'r the front signals? Inside the headlight?

So you're going straight from the rear m/c to the caliper? Get (1) 601103, and (1) straight banjo like you've shown in you second pic. When you run the new line out of the bottom of the swingarm, you will have a straight shot at the caliper, no need for an angled piece. Straight is cheaper too! :beer:

Any other questions, let me know!

Geez, that second pic doesn't look too good. Got a side shot? :unsure:

Do yourself a favor and put that pic on the calendar cover this year!

Glad you mentioned that, because I forgot to. That's another case of "next time I'll know better". You'd almost have to remove the swingarm and use a milling machine to make a perfect hole at the right angle, but it could be done not-quite-so-nicely with a carbide burr on a straight die grinder, or crudely by drilling the hole, then switching to a smaller bit and angling it into the hole while drilling. There is plenty of slack in the hose inside the arm, and enough room inside to where the bend isn't as sharp as you may think. VFRCAPN - Mike, take a look at your stock chainguard. How many fastener locations does it have? The VTEC has four, I would think they are the same part number? The entrance hole for the lines in this mod is the inside forward chainguard mount hole(just in behind the shock, in relation to the bike).

:fing02: :goofy:

Well, the fork is in the hands of the USPS right now, on it's way to GMD Computrack in Scranton, Pennsylvania. Here's a pic of the parts for my oil line mod: Gotta get off this darn pc now and go do some work... :fing02:

Steve's solution to the shorter chainguard: :goofy: Here's a pic of the bulk line and the heat shrink tubing: The heat shrink tubing is 3/8" black polyolefin.

Here's an update for those of you wondering about foul weather coverage. The fender is still doing its job, just getting a little more spray, but not much more. Pics were taken after Steve rode 4hrs on wet roads to get to my house for his brake line mod:

You forgot to mention we went for a ride! :fing02:

Here's the before and (almost) after pics of the chainguard: