HispanicSlammer

correction useable lenth is about an inch- you can get them longer to space the head out for easy access with the tubing

You can save about $4 if you order the pins from McMaster-Carr they have the same pins for about $15.26 each but then you need the rubber backed washers and a piece of 1/4 diameter tubing to space the pins tight. http://www.mcmaster.com border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Part Number: 90985A112 $15.29 Each Material Type Stainless Steel Finish Plain Stainless Steel Type Precipitation-Hardened Stainless Steel Pin Type Quick-Release Pins Quick Release Pin Type High-Profile Push-Button Diameter 1/4" Diameter Tolerance -.0015" to -.003" Usable Length 1" Usable Length Tolerance ?.020" Double Shear Strength 9,200 lbs. Rockwell Hardness C40 for the shank and spindle. C58-C62 for the balls. You can get rubber backed washers with 1/4 holes for about 20 cents each and a two inch long piece of tubing for about the same. save yourself some money to afford a sandwitch for lunch. McMaster has different style pins too and various lengths, the 1/4 inch diameter is what you need, and about an inch usable length if you want a different type of quick release pin. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> recessed might be safer to prevent loss by brushing up against things border='0' alt='user posted image' /> D ring border='0' alt='user posted image' /> High tenstion 4 ball design border='0' alt='user posted image' /> this one has a T handle and lanyard built in border='0' alt='user posted image' /> this one has a spring loaded ball with a shoulder built in to prevent pushing in too far

Yea the PC2 would alter the sensor inputs before they went into the ECM, but the PC3 is after the ECM actually altering the input to the injectors directly. That is the main difference between the older PC's and the new ones. Still need to eliminate the O2 sensors when using the PC3 though, the PC2 is for the first generation of fuel injection like my 98vfr that did not have O2 sensors, later in 2000 when the yellow bike came out they went to using O2 sensors and the PC3 came out for that bike USING only O2 elmininators will prevent the bike from going into stocimetric mode and is said to smooth out the throttle responce like I said earlier. but I have no experience with that so take it at face value.

Map Sensor is what controls the fuel air mixture mostly, but it hands off to the O2 sensors when in open loop during those steady throttle sessions then it goes very lean into stoichometric, it think its 14 parts air 1 part fuel. Map sensor measures the manifold vacuum pressure which is what controls the fuel mix when tied with the throttle postion sensor - its a three dimensional map tp sensor vs map sensor air temp sensor in the airbox - it is when one of these variables is held constant that the O2 sensors is used, TP constant input for so many seconds loops in the o2 sensors. It is an excorize in Boyle's law PV=C and adjusting for temperature V=CT The computer needs to know the volume of air at what pressure and temperature in the cyclinder to inject the right amount of fuel based on the throttle input at the time of the intake stroke. It reads temperature from the temperature sensor and reads pressure with the map sensor, and then calculates the amount fuel - it is not 100% correct so there is not always an effiecient burn so when the throttle postion is held constant it can read the O2 sensor reading and inject stochometric fuel loads. Its of course more complicated than I explain but basically thats the idea.

It is thought that eliminating the o2 sensors cures that midrange surge or flat spot in the power-band. It is essential to eliminate the sensors when using a PCIII or you will get FI errors. Using an aftermarket silencer some have had success in curing the surging by eliminating the O2 sensors. When in constant throttle the ecm puts the fuel curve into stoichiometric mode and it burns with lower emissions, saves fuel, this seems to produce a flat spot or a surge when coming out of it.

There are two schools of thought on the size of the holes and the thickness of the shim stack. Race tech beleives in a large port and then thick shims stacked in various stacks to control the flow of oil and tailor the damping. While others use smaller holes like Ohlins thinner shim stacks to tailor the damping. Yamaha had such small holes on thier initial set of r1 forks that the shim stack was virtually moot cause the darned holes were so small that the oil could not get through - most r1 racers pitched thier forks for better ones, cause they were awful. They have rectified that, FZ1 had the same issues with the forks. Ohlins valve holes are still bigger than Showa though, the race tech valves are almost twice the size. I subscribe to the school that says let the shim stack control the flow, I think that is partially why Ohlins builds huge oil resevoiurs into thier dampers cause flowing then through small holes heats up the oil faster, so they need lots of it to regulate the temperature. My Ohlins is supposed to be consistant under temperature changes. One school says let the shim stack control the damping the other says let the valves holes do most the work.

You must understand that porting the relief holes does nothing to the valve shims or change the characteristics of the compression or rebound valving. Those holes that were ported are the escape hole for the oil once the compression stroke is finished and in the case of a compression valved the fork is on the rebound stroke and so the fork oil is moving in the opposite direction. There is a lightly spring loaded heavy shim on the top of the valve that only allows oil to travel in one direction - its called the "Top Hat" or a "Check Valve" it opens on the rebound stroke and allows oil to move in the opposite direction to allow the cartridge to fill up with oil again. It is the holes that flow the oil back into the cartridge chamber. these are the holes he has ported here, regularly they are just drilled strait and so there is a mad rush of oil into those 4 little holes and some of it gets caught up in turbulence and reduces the effectiveness of the rebound damper piston. What he is doing is opening the exit doors wider to allow the oil out easier border='0' alt='user posted image' /> In this figure the port is the channel the bypasses the shim stack on the bottom and is capped off with the check plate. In actuality they are between the intake ports and are recessed a bit from the shim stack to allow oil to flow backward on the rebound stroke. He has also ported the intake holes a bit too but they still have to flow through the same sized hole toward the middle of the valve so they still have the same flow restriction due to the size of the compression holes.

Damn my Cycle Canada magazine subscription lapsed................40 years ago I think lol. "Touchstone Of Excellence" he says good show Rick, first day of Spring too.

If you drop the rear but not the forks it will feel light up front, like its not hooking up, steering will suffer. You will have to crank off some preload up front to get it to feel right again, basically lowering the front along with the back. I have no idea how much you dropped the rear so I dont know how much to drop the front to match it.

Too Loud? You might try that suggestion Rob gave you about welding on a cap on the end of the drilled pipes. Thats basically how a spark arrester is on a dirt bike, and it is much quieter than a strait pipe without losing too much flow, you will get a bit more back pressure but no more than the oem for sure. Or perhaps a small hole on the end, of course a dirt bike wraps with stainless steel screen. Nice fabrication there, I moved it to feature on the homepage tec. This is sort of how the industry is going with exausts now anyway, starting with buell those belly pan mufflers are getting popular, lowers COG and is generally more effiecient, more cost effective. Looks like it don't stick out any more than the collector pipes do should not be a dragging issue there. I thought you modified a car muffler at first but then I read you fabricated it from scratch.

Remove one of the lock nuts on the adjuster, thats another 3/4 inch of adjustment to work with, it will be tight up against the post anyway with it out all the way. border='0' alt='user posted image' /> I removed this nut for a bit more adjustment.

fixed photos and deleted comments on such - photos are clickable for larger versions (shrunk to fit the screen)