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GebruikerNotLID

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About GebruikerNotLID

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    Privateer

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  • Location
    Connecticut, USA and the Netherlands
  • In My Garage:
    1992 VFR
    1993 CBR1000

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  1. I checked at the LIDL link. These are still on sale as of 16 August. I figure this page has gotten shuffled pretty far down in a week, so I wanted to bring it back up top just in case somebody was interested. I don't work for LIDL or anything. My gauntlets arrived at a friend's house in Holland...which isn't doing me a helluva lotta good here in Connecticut, in the middle of summer. I should ask him to open the package anyway, so I can post a picture for a review.
  2. I agree. I wouldn't think the screws and center stand on any model would be anything but...black. Leave it to Honda to make up at least a dozen kinds of black paint. And those are the ones just as listed on vsource. Unfortunately, their color descriptions aren't always helpful. What the hell is Phantom black? Pearl Pure Black? (NH237P) Black green metallic? (G125M) How about, yes, Black? (NH1) Good luck. Sorry I can't be of more help.
  3. I take it all back. Mostly. Vsource only documents colors coded through 36F-P. But if your factory sticker is missing, JZH might still know where to look. That’s in case someone else, who actually knows what’s he’s talking about, doesn’t jump in here first. Sorry.
  4. If the stand isn’t black, I’m guessing it’s Tasmania Green. Honda came out with a couple dark colors, depending on the market and year of your bike. It could be Granite Blue too... another nearly black color. Or even Northern Lights Blue. If you’re lucky, you might find the factory sticker under your seat that tells you the code. JZH knows this stuff. If you look at vsource.org you’ll find a lot broken down there. Then, if you’re still stuck, you might message him directly. He’s usually happy to help. 🙂 Tell him I sent you 🙂🙂 On second thought, don’t tell him I sent you.
  5. I've been going through the same headlight upgrade issues with a third generation. Like you, I'm trying not to spend much and trying to modify regular H4s. Both VFROz and Terry (user names) have given me some information on using LED headlights. They're getting cheaper all the time. I was trying to insert the quotes from those guys but can't figure out how to do that so I'm just cutting and pasting for you. VFROz wrote: I've bought these: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nighteye-72W-9000LM-H4-HB2-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Beam-Globe-Bulbs-6500K-White/252920366279?epid=6026513713&hash=item3ae33a84c7:g:noAAAOSwwvtb08nX&frcectupt=true And I'm very happy with them. They dont shine the light forwards, but back towards the reflector. They also have a cooling fan and fit the 5G. Light output is high, and low beam cut off is the same as stock bulbs. High beams are much much better. I do wish they wern't so white, I prefer around 4000K which is still white but I can't seem to find them. (His LEDs are also on EBay in the USA) And Terry wrote: I have been running LED's in place of H4 halogens for a few years, starting with the Cyclops and now just using any generic Chinese bulb. I have used fan-cooled and no-fan, one key difference is the no-fan bulbs will run just the high or just the low emitters, the fan-cooled units will keep low on all the time and add high when you select high beam; so you keep good near illumination plus add the long distance light. Regarding heat, the LED's are generally consuming a fraction of the power of a halogen and converting more of that into light, so my view is they will always run cooler than halogen. I've also experienced using a 100W halogen bulb and that had enough heat to melt the plug connector on the back... Provided you get LEDs in which the position of the high and low emitters mimics that of the the halogens, you will get near-enough the same beam spread. And you also need to make sure you have a low beam cut-off shield which confusingly sits in front and below the low beam emitter, so you don't dazzle others. There are "H4" bulbs that have an H4 base but nothing remotely close to the correct configuration. I haven't tried the LEDs yet, but I'm pretty sure I will in the near future. Good luck. Let us know what you come up with in the end.
  6. ...and I didn't mean that you meant only OEM bulbs would work either. 🙂 You see how my own attempt with standard H4s went on the first try. I wouldn't have the guts to try the proper modifications as developed by Bob Peloquin. I'd end up with the bike in a thousand pieces, scattered across the garage. And LEDs seem the obvious choice of the future. BTW, Philips came through with a replacement bulb. So your faith in them can be partially restored.
  7. Lots of good information Terry. I wouldn't have guessed that about the emitter cutoff on high beam for uncooled LEDs. And your comment also makes sense about mimicking H4 bulbs. Some of the LEDs have emitters on the sides. Some on 4 sides. Top and bottom emitters seem logical, at least for lights that will work in generation 3 VFRs. Thanks.
  8. I think this is the right vfrd page for gloves on sale. From Lidl, in Holland. I can't attest to the quality of these. But Lidl typically sells products of not awful quality. Plus, they're returnable. And 8 euros? Their online sales have a tendency to disappear without notice, so you might act fast if you are interested. I ordered a pair for myself. But remember, I can't say if they're any good. I'm also not sure about international shipping. https://www.lidl-shop.nl/CRIVIT-Motorhandschoenen/p100250996
  9. Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  10. Oz, Actually, those LEDs caught my eye because they don't have the cooling fins or fans. I was thinking they might be another newer generation of LED headlight. The technology changes so fast these days. I see others with the cooling fins designed inside the lens capsule. And your Nighteyes are available here in the States too. I'm guessing the heat generated from the LED circuits is not a problem under the instrument display. Like you, I prefer a color not quite so dazzling as the 6500K lamps. But that seems to be the current standard, unless you want to go for a different color entirely. (blue?) Thanks for your experience. I expect everybody will be using LEDs very soon.
  11. Headlight upgrade, continued Philips says they’ll send me a new bulb for free. (see note above) So apparently they honor their warranties. Yay Philips. I also see these now on EBay. From the advertising pictures, It looks like they are bright enough to light up a football field. JZH has taken pains to explain to me how anything but the genuine Honda bulbs just won’t work right behind the factory lens. (Re thread beginning Sept 20 2018) Generic H4s kindof don't work because the bulb gets tilted in the fitting, causing alignment problems. But these LEDs would not only get tilted, they seem to have the light emitters in an entirely different place. Look at the photograph. They're side to side, left and right, when they should be top and bottom. I think. Anyhow, I know some of you have tried the expensive LED lights with the external electronics/transformers/cooling. And you’ve had good results. Has anybody tried these yet? In case the Philips bulbs never work out...
  12. Fake RAM mount update. (re 23 July, above) It works okay, at least for my voltmeter. As expected, JZH is vindicated. It did wobble some. I purposefully went over a few bumpy patches. These are easy enough to find in Connecticut, and I even got the unit to swing completely sideways from all the shaking. I don’t think there was any chance of it actually bouncing completely out of the stem but the design could stand improvement. I haven’t tried it with my much heavier phone yet. I also found this thing in the cellar. It is clarty(!) so I'll have to clean it up some. Can anybody identify it? I mean, does anybody know its intended purpose? It looks to be some kind of plumbing…thing. The wide end is threaded internally for a hose maybe. The small end has no thread but there is that external screw on the side that you can see. That would bite down on a pipe inserted from that end. But I doubt that end could be made waterproof or gasproof. Anyway, I’m just wondering what it was for, in case anybody asks me. I'm thinking of adapting it for the homemade stem mount. It’s just the right diameter for the stem, and raises the voltmeter platform another 2 inches (5cm). I almost always ride with a tank bag so that makes the sightline even better than before. Plus it has the benefit of clearing the key better, so I don’t have to twist the mount out the way to get under it, as I do with the present design. If I tidy it up one of these days, I’ll take a better picture.
  13. Surely, you must have a general idea by now of the vague intersection between my economic viability and my mechanical prowess. Heated grips? I’d be getting the $5 Chinese set, which I would almost certainly botch up at installation. Please! I can’t even get the damn glue to stick! Happily I’ve never tried heated grips so I don’t know what I’m missing. I do have a repurposed Lidl 12v car seat heater that I use as a heated vest on cold days. Not only has it not caught fire on me, or even shorted out, but it works surprisingly well to keep my whole body warm. I just couldn’t deal with too much of a good thing. Please don’t tempt me with fancy luxury ideas. 🙂 🙂
  14. Grip glue My left grip is loose. It spins when I ride. I'm probably holding too tight anyway. I think I heard somewhere along the line that you should be gentle but firm with your hands when you ride. Maybe that was in a different context. We won't go there. No matter. The grip spins. Of course, the bar end keeps it from sliding off so it's just a small nuisance. I know there is real grip glue available. I don't have that. I've heard the hair spray solution. I tried once and that didn't work for me. I do have this stuff. I tried it last year. It worked for a while...a year...so I'm giving it another shot. Since the grip is already loose, it comes off easily without the bar end in place. The old shoe goo is rubbery. Curiously, it doesn't stick to the inside of the rubber of the grip, only to the metal, which looked like this... But since the glue remains rubbery, it peels off the metal easily. And doesn't leave a residue. Nice. I wiped both surfaces with alcohol just because it seemed a good idea, and then slobbered on another dose of shoe goo. I'm thinking one problem is that as you slide the grip back in place, it more or less slides most of the glue up and off. I bet 75% of the glue is wasted. But this would happen with any glue, and as you see, the old glue did cover pretty much the whole surface. I twisted the grip too, to smear the glue inside, like plumbers do when joining pvc pipe. I'm giving it 24 hours to sit. Let's see if it holds better this time.
  15. You may also not know that older exhaust systems can be repacked. Apparently the material burns away after a while and they get louder. Several members have posted about this and there are videos online. OTOH you may like it loud...
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