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ZCD76 last won the day on January 7

ZCD76 had the most liked content!

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About ZCD76

  • Rank
    Local Racer

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  • Location
    Omaha, NE
  • In My Garage:
    2003 VFR800
  1. Sebspeed Clutch Window Mod Group Buy 2017

    Just want to update all that may read this thread - the extra cover I referenced earlier has been purchased. I do not have an extra for sale any longer.
  2. Hello from the frigid Midwest

    It is. It's where I bought it from. The owner of AF1 and my brother (who owns a Triumph Tiger 800 and a few other vintage Hondas) know each other and he told my brother he had this VFR for sale...anyhow, yeah, I bought it from AF1. Technically I am the third owner as whoever owned it originally traded it in on something at AF1 so AF1 was the second owner of it. Whatever...
  3. Hi ZCD76, Thank you for your donation of $25.00. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  4. Powder Coating Exhaust Shields?

    You're certainly welcome. When I was younger, I had several Fox-bodied (1979-1993 range) Mustangs as well as other vehicles that I put headers on. I never had it (in college or thereabouts) in my budget to be able to splurge for ceramic coated options and never really figured ceramic coating would make that much of a difference. Until, probably, 16 years ago when I put a set of ceramic coated Hedman headers (bought directly from Jet Hot - they used to sell, direct to the consumer, name brand headers that they coated) on a Dodge truck I owned. I was amazed at the difference in heat reduction under the hood going from stock cast iron exhaust manifolds to ceramic coated shorty headers. Granted, in a 6,000 lb truck the butt dyno didn't tell me the combo was making any more power (if it made another 10 lb/ft of torque that's, realistically, all the more it may have made) but to pop the hood when it was at full temperature was a night & day difference. With the stock manifolds, as soon as you popped the hood it was like opening the door to an oven - with the ceramic coated headers, the amount of heat was greatly, greatly reduced and you could put your hand within a few inches of the headers (with the engine at full temperature and running) before you'd feel heat. I realize this isn't scientific nor necessarily what you're going for...I'm just relaying my own experience with ceramic coating. The bigger issue with your idea is, as I referenced above, I think the powder might get cooked in that application. I think most powder coatings will only withstand temperatures in the 300* +/- range. Are the mufflers that hot? While cruising, probably not, but I don't know. As I type this, I'm wondering what the surfaces of some of the colored mufflers/cans, such as those offered by GPR, Max Torque Cans, and others use for a media - powder coating or a ceramic? I guess I could inquire. I know some of the GPR white cans specify that the white is a ceramic coating...the black versions I don't know about though. To the best of my knowledge, ceramic coating (the media/material itself) is but a powder coating media that's been fortified with ceramic components. That's, at best, a rough description of what ceramic coating "material" is. The ceramic components plus (I'm sure) some different chemical components/chemistry allow that material to withstand the heat environments it's marketed for (headers, exhausts, iron manifolds, turbocharger turbine housings, etc.). If I'm not mistaken, I think most ceramic coaters' "base" coatings (i.e. the polished aluminum looking ceramic coating, cast iron gray and some of the colors each offers) are referenced as withstanding temperatures in the 1000*-1200*F range. I know Jet Hot and my local guy offer some higher temp ceramic coatings (for turbocharger turbines and applications such as that) that supposedly will withstand up to the 1500*F range - and I think all I've ever seen those listed in are offerings such as matte black, cast iron gray-type finish, and a very thick white textured finish that Swaintech offers. Again, I don't know that the cans/mufflers on a motorcycle (or one of our street ridden VFRs, that is) would reach the 300*F+ range that would create trouble for a powder coat finish, but if it were me I'd err on the side of safety and spend the extra bit of money for a ceramic coating on the heat shields you're referencing. Not only will you get the finish I think you're looking for, but the ceramic coating will act as an insulator of sorts to keep the mufflers from radiating heat. On a completely unrelated note, I've considered taking the factory headers/collector off my 2003 VFR (that has 2,200 miles on it) and having them ceramic coated (well, everything but the internals of the catalytic converter, perhaps obviously). I wasn't sure if coating the exterior of the catalytic converter was even feasible given the temperatures a converter can reach. I was considering this for two reasons: 1) to reduce the amount of heat radiated from under the bike/the exhaust, and 2) to prevent the pipes/assembly from rusting/deteriorating with use. (this bike - if not obvious given the mileage - has lived 95% of its life in somebody's garage prior to my becoming the owner in Oct. 2017 when it had 1,800 miles on it). Anyhow, both Jet Hot and my local (Trail Performance Coatings in Papillion, Nebraska) powder & ceramic coater assured me they could ceramic coat the entire unit (obviously not the internals of the cat converter) without problem. Jet Hot quoted me a price that was over 2x what my local coater indicated he could do it for. If I decide to do it, it'll be with the local guy. Again, I have nothing against Jet Hot (I've patronized them several times over the years and have always been happy with their service/products) but I have a relationship with my local guy, he does top-notch work, and given the price difference...JH basically priced themself out of the consideration. I reference the latter simply to illustrate there's bound to be local (or more local to you, that is) coaters that are reputable and can offer competitive prices. I think a lot of guys hear "ceramic coating" and think it's something only the big-named, highly exposed companies can do. Yes, it's more expensive than powder coating (because the material, itself, is quite a bit more expensive than the plastic powder used in powder coating) but for your two heat shields - I cannot imagine it would be much more than $50-75, if that much.
  5. Powder Coating Exhaust Shields?

    I haven't done such but powder coating probably is not going to put up with the heat that is radiated off the muffler if the bike is at idle while not moving or moving very slowly for extended lengths of time. I would sooner have the shields ceramic coated. Not all ceramic coating has the polished aluminum-looking finish most people associated with ceramic coating. It can be done in a matte black finish, matte gray, matte blue, matte white, bronze, etc., etc. I have a set of headers on my car that were ceramic coated matte black because I wanted the benefits of ceramic coating (thermal benefits and longevity benefits - no rusting headers, etc) but didn't want a polished header in the car as I didn't think it would, aesthetically, fit everything else under the hood. You probably have a local outfit that can ceramic coat parts - you don't need to send the parts off to a big-name outfit like Jet Hot (unless that outfit is close to you). To be clear, I have nothing against Jet Hot (I've bought coated headers from them in the past). I'm just letting you know there are most likely local vendors/services that can do what you need. Powder coating is tough but it has its limits. I would talk with a local coater (who does powder and/or ceramic) and talk with them about this. I think they'd recommend ceramic, as well.
  6. 4th gen battery DOA?

    I would first try a known good battery and see what happens. In all due respect, I have as much faith in the intelligence and know-how of folks working at chain parts stores like Autozone as I do in the current President of the United States. My apologies to Autozone employees. I would have the battery load tested by somebody who knows what he or she is doing. Go to a local automotive starter, alternator, and battery shop to have your battery tested, for example. Heck, most NAPAs I have been in have employees with far better mechanical aptitude than do Autozones, Western Autos, Advance Autos, etc. The battery I just replaced in my car (rated at 850 cold cranking amps) would NOT start my car when it got below freezing. It tested at 13.1 volts sitting there but load tested at 485 cranking amps.
  7. Bump Starting

    It depends on how weak the battery is. It's gotta have enough amperage to run the computer, the fuel pump, etc. Can you bump/push start an efi'ed vehicle with a weak battery? Yes, but it all depends on how much amperage and/or voltage that weak battery has. If it doesn't have the necessary power to run the electronics AND fuel pump, no.
  8. Is that because of the ethanol or merely the expansion of gasoline products under high heat/direct sunlight? I am curious. I don't claim to know it all. Having more experience in the automobile world, the biggest foul I was aware of when it comes to ethanol-blended fuels is that the alcohol/ethanol attracts moisture so in vehicles that don't get driven often and that have metal fuel tanks, the owner should avoid putting ethanol-blended gasoline in them. Even here in the States, I have seen cars that were parked in non-climate controlled garages purportedly for ~6 months in high humidity locales (peninsular Florida) that the interior of the gas tank(s) had a substantial amount of rust in it. Ethanol having a deleterious effect on a plastic fuel tank is something I have not heard of...it has always been steel/metal tanks I have heard/Understood to be adversely impacted by prolonged exposure to ethanol-blended gasolines.
  9. Cold Starting Problem

    Have you tried cycling the ignition switch (or the key) on and off a few times before cold starting it in these instances? If not, try that - flip the ignition switch to the "run" position until the pump quits priming - then switch it to the "kill" position and back to the "run" position for the pump to prime again. Do this 2-3 times then try to start the bike. Report back results.
  10. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    To assuage your fears, it is fused. I have an inline fuse a couple of inches off the battery with a 10 amp fuse in it...between the battery and the distribution block. Each lead off the distribution block is fused, as well, with a 5 amp mini ATM-type fuse. I have no major power consuming devices wired off of this setup.
  11. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    Yes, but I don't have anything that constantly draws off the block. I installed it for USB-type devices - recharging/charging the phone, navigation, and such devices when I'm riding.
  12. This is my general experience/opinion, as well. As much as I like making fun of Italian "stuff," I don't think Ducatis...at least since the early 2000s...deserve the reputation some folks do and would ascribe to them. Do they require more routine maintenance (than a Honda or Yamaha, Zuk, Kawi)? Yes, most likely. I cannot say for sure as I've never had one nor do I think I ever will...and that certainly isn't because I don't think they aren't good looking bikes (depending on the model) nor unappealing. I just happen to think other makes (Honda, Yamaha, BMW, to be specific) offer products that, pragmatically speaking (to me), align with my sense of function, sensibility, and fit my persona (whatever that means). Duck guys are duck guys...and I'm not a Duck rider. With respect to the videos posted above by GatorGreg (I believe)...not to rain on anybody's parade but what's posted on the internet is, in my experience, generally that of people most dissatisfied with a product or taking an extreme. For every video of a Ducati (or Honda VFR, Yamaha FJR, whatever) with a GIVEN specific problem 6 months after purchase, there's bound to be countless thousands (if not tens of thousands) of other customers that are perfectly satisfied/have experienced zero problems who don't post videos or on message boards describing their completely satisfied, trouble-free experience with their product.
  13. Minimum voltage to charge battery when riding?

    Directly off the battery is where I would recommend. I have a distribution block wired directly to the battery with a 10 gauge wire. I see no less than 14.1 volts off of it.
  14. Sebspeed Clutch Window Mod Group Buy 2017

    I have an "extra" clutch cover available, as well. I am not trying to undercut Lightduty or anything like that, so I would defer to him. If anybody is in need of a cover to have Sebastian window while they still have their bike together, let me know. I can ship Seb both that I have for windowing (whenever the minimum number is met) and you can merely Paypal me the money for the purchase price of the cover.
  15. Tires!

    This. To Greg/Walter, I read Taylor's response as the honest truth. Call me crazy. He indicates that RockyMountain is selling the tires below the cost that Revzilla can buy them at. This is not common but not unheard of, either. I can vouch for similar stuff happening in various other industries (bicycling and automobile performance industries/markets, amongst others). I appreciate that you spent $1,500+ with them in 2017 but are they supposed to take a loss on some tires just because you bought from them previously? In whatever line of work or profession you are in, would you be willing to take a loss for a prior customer just because he or she patronized your business/employer at an earlier date? Is that a business model you think is viable?

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