JoelF

It's been a long time since I've seen a hose burst unless something was ridden/driving while overheating. What are some of the cooling related parts that people have seen fail that have ended in a tow? My T-stat failed open. Annoying but not a "down gripe." I'm really impressed with the quality of the rubber parts on cars and bikes in the last 20 years. Fuel lines in the 80's however...

Have people been getting the J30R10 fuel line, rated submersible, for this? The standard injection (J30R9) hose supposedly breaks down over time if the jacket is exposed to fuel and can then crack, weep, and soften such that the clamps no longer hold. I am doing the filter on my Triumph and plan to get this line locally if I can find some, or maybe have to wait 2 days to get a foot for $20+ from Amazon. This happened to me on some 1992 fuel line where a fitting seeped fuel and turned the fuel line jacket to goo around the core, causing the clamps to become loose. I also saw a post about a BMW that lost fuel pressure due to some under-spec in-tank hoses after a fuel filter replacement.

I got a knockoff, which died partway though the 1st ride. I then got a used FZ-09 R/R of the FH020AA type. I wired it to the stock harness but included an extra fused 12awg wire to the battery + and another to a frame ground. No problems.

Honda H4 bulbs are non-standard so you may need to modify what you get. Higher wattage tungsten bulbs will probably require upgraded wiring also. LED is an option, may or may not be brighter but they do not use much current. I am using the LED style with the copper braid heat sinks, I had to trim the mounting ears to get them to fit. I am happy with the results but I was mainly after lower current drain. http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/H4mod.html

I think I drilled one hole for the FZ-09 regulator I am running. Stock location and used one stock mounting hole maybe? It does not get hot so no need to mess around with more cooling.

Yes, I use ST1100 cables on my bike with a bar conversion. There is also rerouting which can help. I do not think I have optimal routing now and plan to re-do it when I do steering head bearings and gold valves later this year. I do not think I used factory routing with the ST1100 cables, I think they were a bit too short for OEM routing.

As I mentioned on the other site if the bike goes dead it's usually loose battery cables. The clock has it's own wire and fuse so if it goes dead that's a good clue.

This problem is usually loose battery cables or similar.

Good catch. My neutral switch was flaking out, so I ordered another one but then thought I might toss the old one into my ultrasonic cleaner, which fixed it right up.

https://www.belmetric.com/5mm-c-563_581_584_605/sb5x20ss-button-allen-socket-head-stainless-p-3275.html

I would not mess around with the OEM style regulator, just replace with something more modern. I got a used one off an FZ-09 and a harness off ebay for under $50 delivered. Heat usually shortens the life of electronic components, yes some components fail as a dead short and make a lot of heat but running them hot might kill them early. But for the good of your battery and to avoid a tow or a long push might as well replace the OEM regulator now and avoid that tediousness.

I think I learned to weld from that guy. Never quite mastered the booger weld myself.

The rude solution is a few wraps of electrical tape on the bar. It's soft enough to get mashed into the crevices and lock the pod to the bar pretty well.

Dunno about the 3m stuff, never tried it. Usually plastic polish is not aggressive enough for the 1st pass but it'd work eventually.

I have used toothpaste and other similar abrasives on car headlights. After this is done they yellow again pretty fast so they either need a good UV resistant clear on them or shoot 'em with a UV protectant spray from time to time. Or clearbra material as above.