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About JoelF

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  • Location
    Boulder, CO
  • In My Garage:
    2000 VFR800

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  1. I got a used FZ-09 regulator off ebay, mounted it in the stock spot with I think one new hole drilled. Ebay also has harnesses. It's of the newer design, FH020 or similar. Works great and stays cool so no need to increase airflow over it IMO.
  2. Hard to blow against all the air coming in the front, even at a walking pace.
  3. The NC is now available as a 750 and might be OK, I'd like to ride a CB500X to see how slow it is also. A V Strom or Tiger might be closer to the mark. The NC is too new for me to find cheap and also looks like it's not up for much trail damage.
  4. I'm running a used one off an FZ-09, looks similar. Runs cool. Under $40.
  5. I kinda want a bike with more suspension travel and clearance for a lot of my riding. An Africa twin or similar makes a lot of sense to me. A wider ratio gearbox would be important though, rather than just sprocket changes. There are lots of bad, potholed roads and parking lots around me. Lots of dirt parking lots that are hard to manage on a VFR, likewise some great gravel and dirt roads. Obviously not a replacement for the VFR on the right roads but something that'll go 85 on the highway (KLR not quite), manage a dirt road, and be able to be dropped and picked back up again solo without significant damage would be super handy for me.
  6. What is the battery voltage after sitting a few days? How are the connections at the battery? Anything loose or any ill-fitting terminals?
  7. I ran them for 6 months or so, they bolt on and I've already drilled them for the slightly different locator pin hole vs. the stock clip-ons. Shipping overseas is kind of a pain but I'll do it. SV650 clip on (with sharp bend and weld) VF1000F (2 tone) and stock
  8. I have a set of VF1000F clip ons, similar to Helibars, and a set of Helibars for an SV650 I ended up not using as I went with a bar conversion. Happy to sell either/both.
  9. The brake lever is easy to heat and bend with a propane torch. Heat until it looks kinda sweaty. I bent mine to adjust for lowered pegs, never removed it from the bike.
  10. Removing the upper cowl and mirrors rather than the lowers? Sounds... harder.
  11. I'm indifferent to the linked brakes, they are complicated but functionally they are kinda nice for street riding. If I had a problem with my linked brakes I'd fix it rather than properly de-link as I think to do it properly would be a large undertaking. Plus these are old bikes and there are tons of cheap used parts out there to fix any aspect of this system. Getting new fluid into all the far reaches is the hard part of the linked brakes and I suppose things get stuck due to the lack of this maintenance. You might want to take apart and clean both the stuck one and the ebay valve and install whichever one is the least sketch.
  12. How pooched is the front sprocket?
  13. Nice purchase. Rather than a higher seat I run lowered pegs, Buell pegs. They need to be belt sanded at the mount to fit but other than that they are fine. Around $50/pair. I also have a bar conversion on my bike for a more upright position. There are some clip-on options to address this as well, I have a couple I tried before putting the bars on (I should get these up for sale).
  14. Mine had a newer stock unit in place when I bought the bike and after reading the forums I decided to change it before it failed again. I found a Chinese knock-off FH020AA for cheap from a USA seller with a good rep and who had sold loads and loads of them. I figured they must work or the seller would have a list of complaints as long as my arm. Well it lasted one ride to work, or part of one, and shorted internally, got really hot, dragged the voltage down. The bike still ran and while riding made enough voltage to get home and the knock-off reg didn't melt anything. I got a partial refund since I kept the (acceptable quality) harness and bought a used FZ-07 regulator off ebay and that's worked well. Just swapped for the shunted regulator, nothing rewired. I wired the replacement to the bike's harness with an old regulator harness but I also added an extra ground to the frame local to the regulator and an extra fused power straight to the battery. I also added a fused trickle charger SAE plug to the bike at the same time. There is one small wire in the OEM harness I forget what you need to do with (ground or no connection?) the rest are 3 obvious AC inputs and power or ground outputs. The new regulator is bolted where the old one was (had to drill one hole I think) and runs cool with no fan or anything. All's well many miles later. Lots of newer bikes have these better voltage regulators and used ones are $30-ish on Ebay. A wiring harness should be available there as well for a few bucks. Cheers, -Joel.
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