JoelF

I used the all balls seals but I think any quality seal is OK. The upgraded ones however might be better long-term, I think they have an extra lip. Make sure you put them in the right way around, it's not as obvious on these seals. I also am a fan of neoprene fork boots provided you clean them from time to time.

An easy test is to disable the injection and get it running with petrol squirted into the throttles. If it runs on all 4 this way, you know where to look for your issue. However you need to be sure #2 is not fouled when you try this or the test is invalid.

I have found my bike to be very sensitive to air in the clutch line. It's definitely time to flush and clean the clutch slave and master, and when you bleed it you may need to bleed at the top banjo bolt to get that last bubble out. I like to tie the levers down for a while and shake the bike to get bubbles up to the top and then pop some fluid out the top banjos.

There are some Liqui Moly MOS2 additives including one specifically for bikes. I have not looked at their basic engine oil. I've used it in cars thinking it might at least help lube the cam chain sliders. https://sichdatonline.chemical-check.de/Dokumente/566/1580_0006_07-11-2017_EN.pdf

I'd still be thinking about a hard break-in to get pad material transfer to the plates but another thing you can try is to tie the clutch lever overnight to allow oil to soak into the friction material. Eventually I'd try a ZDDP or even a moly additive like Liqui-Moly if nothing else is working. But maybe holding the clutch in will do it.

I'll be floored if this isn't a bad water pump weeping as typical. Maybe due to lack of cooling system maintenance. Please check the coolant voltage before draining, if you can.

I'd try an automobile oil and if that's no help I'd buy new friction plates. Actually first I'd fan and abuse the clutch a fair bit, see if a hot supper helps at all. Maybe it's not breaking in properly. Is it a stock clutch?

It's been a long time since I've seen a hose burst unless something was ridden/driving while overheating. What are some of the cooling related parts that people have seen fail that have ended in a tow? My T-stat failed open. Annoying but not a "down gripe." I'm really impressed with the quality of the rubber parts on cars and bikes in the last 20 years. Fuel lines in the 80's however...

Have people been getting the J30R10 fuel line, rated submersible, for this? The standard injection (J30R9) hose supposedly breaks down over time if the jacket is exposed to fuel and can then crack, weep, and soften such that the clamps no longer hold. I am doing the filter on my Triumph and plan to get this line locally if I can find some, or maybe have to wait 2 days to get a foot for $20+ from Amazon. This happened to me on some 1992 fuel line where a fitting seeped fuel and turned the fuel line jacket to goo around the core, causing the clamps to become loose. I also saw a post about a BMW that lost fuel pressure due to some under-spec in-tank hoses after a fuel filter replacement.

I got a knockoff, which died partway though the 1st ride. I then got a used FZ-09 R/R of the FH020AA type. I wired it to the stock harness but included an extra fused 12awg wire to the battery + and another to a frame ground. No problems.

Honda H4 bulbs are non-standard so you may need to modify what you get. Higher wattage tungsten bulbs will probably require upgraded wiring also. LED is an option, may or may not be brighter but they do not use much current. I am using the LED style with the copper braid heat sinks, I had to trim the mounting ears to get them to fit. I am happy with the results but I was mainly after lower current drain. http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/H4mod.html

I think I drilled one hole for the FZ-09 regulator I am running. Stock location and used one stock mounting hole maybe? It does not get hot so no need to mess around with more cooling.

Yes, I use ST1100 cables on my bike with a bar conversion. There is also rerouting which can help. I do not think I have optimal routing now and plan to re-do it when I do steering head bearings and gold valves later this year. I do not think I used factory routing with the ST1100 cables, I think they were a bit too short for OEM routing.

As I mentioned on the other site if the bike goes dead it's usually loose battery cables. The clock has it's own wire and fuse so if it goes dead that's a good clue.

This problem is usually loose battery cables or similar.