JoelF

Yes, I use ST1100 cables on my bike with a bar conversion. There is also rerouting which can help. I do not think I have optimal routing now and plan to re-do it when I do steering head bearings and gold valves later this year. I do not think I used factory routing with the ST1100 cables, I think they were a bit too short for OEM routing.

As I mentioned on the other site if the bike goes dead it's usually loose battery cables. The clock has it's own wire and fuse so if it goes dead that's a good clue.

This problem is usually loose battery cables or similar.

Good catch. My neutral switch was flaking out, so I ordered another one but then thought I might toss the old one into my ultrasonic cleaner, which fixed it right up.

https://www.belmetric.com/5mm-c-563_581_584_605/sb5x20ss-button-allen-socket-head-stainless-p-3275.html

I would not mess around with the OEM style regulator, just replace with something more modern. I got a used one off an FZ-09 and a harness off ebay for under $50 delivered. Heat usually shortens the life of electronic components, yes some components fail as a dead short and make a lot of heat but running them hot might kill them early. But for the good of your battery and to avoid a tow or a long push might as well replace the OEM regulator now and avoid that tediousness.

I think I learned to weld from that guy. Never quite mastered the booger weld myself.

The rude solution is a few wraps of electrical tape on the bar. It's soft enough to get mashed into the crevices and lock the pod to the bar pretty well.

Dunno about the 3m stuff, never tried it. Usually plastic polish is not aggressive enough for the 1st pass but it'd work eventually.

I have used toothpaste and other similar abrasives on car headlights. After this is done they yellow again pretty fast so they either need a good UV resistant clear on them or shoot 'em with a UV protectant spray from time to time. Or clearbra material as above.

I got a used FZ-09 regulator off ebay, mounted it in the stock spot with I think one new hole drilled. Ebay also has harnesses. It's of the newer design, FH020 or similar. Works great and stays cool so no need to increase airflow over it IMO.

Hard to blow against all the air coming in the front, even at a walking pace.

The NC is now available as a 750 and might be OK, I'd like to ride a CB500X to see how slow it is also. A V Strom or Tiger might be closer to the mark. The NC is too new for me to find cheap and also looks like it's not up for much trail damage.

I'm running a used one off an FZ-09, looks similar. Runs cool. Under $40.

I kinda want a bike with more suspension travel and clearance for a lot of my riding. An Africa twin or similar makes a lot of sense to me. A wider ratio gearbox would be important though, rather than just sprocket changes. There are lots of bad, potholed roads and parking lots around me. Lots of dirt parking lots that are hard to manage on a VFR, likewise some great gravel and dirt roads. Obviously not a replacement for the VFR on the right roads but something that'll go 85 on the highway (KLR not quite), manage a dirt road, and be able to be dropped and picked back up again solo without significant damage would be super handy for me.