DaveM

Depends on the bike. If your is one of the ones prone to surging at steady throttle in the 4-5k range it very well could help.

I don't think you can lower the front enough to compensate for a 30mm drop in the rear. The tradeoff for being able to "flat foot" at stop lights will be slowed steering response and potential ground clearence problems. As long as your not wanting to push the sport riding potential though should be no problem.

I'm 6' 1" with a really long inseam, and find the fit nearly perfect. I'll concede on the replacement seat, but I think I'd also give it a thousand miles before I started changing the egos. As Bad Boy said, you may just need some time to adjust to a more sporting position.

Nice write-up, but I have to say I couldn't disagree more with your assessment of the 6th gen plastic body pins. Once you know how to use them they beat any of the screw types for ease of use and reuse.

Put me down for a set please.

Square Rotor Na. Looks like bling as opposed to function. I don't like the low pad contact at the low areas

Makes sense to me. I'm always amazed at how quiet my helmet gets when I stand up and stretch - all that clean air. Let us know how far you have to cut for a good result.

+1 on the cycling shorts, and I really believe a big part of the benefit is the wicking fabric. Cotton drawers under jeans or leathers bunch, stick and are usually soaked after one tank full. Good, technical fabric cycling shorts however, help keep my butt dry, cool and therefor much more comfortable on those 600+ mile days on a stock seat :cool: . BTW: more comfortable than standard cycling shorts - bibs. Stay in place perfectly and without a tight drawstring. Try www.bikenashbar.com or www.performancebike.com for really good prices on shorts.

Very creative reapplication of products manufactured for other purposes! I too believe myself to be a cheep bastage (as evidenced by the build yer own exhaust), but you do know that most wet weather gloves have a squeegee built into the back of the thumbs? Kills two birds with one stone dry hands AND a clear visor.

Wow. This is starting to sound familiar. I just posted a fix under the vtech electrical problems that sounds a lot like this. Temperature sensitive surging/ poor steady state throttle response. I put in o2 eliminators in an effort to get rid of the surge, and it got better, but never fully went away. Finally it started to get really bad. The fix was maintenance of the engine management electrical connectors. Several folks posted that their problems started or got worse when they worked on stuff on the right side of the bike – maybe moved the harness? Someone else who is having a problem needs to try this and confirm. Wouldn’t it be interesting if all of the surging issues were nothing more than a high resistance engine management connection? http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=429571

I know there are a lot of posts on this topic, but my experience was a little different and I wanted to throw it out for consideration. Over the past couple of months my 02 had developed some really serious drivability issues. Once she got over about 180deg she would start missing at constant throttle settings. In the mildest form it felt like the lean surge problem, and in its worst form you could hear individual cylinders dropping in and out and it felt like it was going to die. Moving the throttle a good bit would cause everything to pick back up but it was very annoying, and sometimes scary if you were in a corner. The problem didn’t exhibit itself constantly. Some times she would run smooth as butter for a couple of days. I had been watching the 30A B fuse for a while and it was starting to show the typical wiring insulation discoloration and signs of heat so I did one of the recommended repairs. This lowered the fuse wire temp, but it was still getting warm and the drivability problem was still there. I checked the main and front harness ground wires next – no signs of heat or discoloration, the connectors separated easily etcetera, so I didn’t implement any of the repairs suggested. I did apply some super duper Volvo electrical connector grease given to me by a friend to the blue and gray connectors. (Seems modern drive by wire Volvos occasionally develop electrical gremlins and the fix is to put this stuff on the connectors). Still no change. So, I got out the service manual and started to work my way through the wiring diagram and learned the following: The B fuse (the one that melts) does not supply working circuits in the front harness. The power passes through the front harness to be switched by the control relays (fuel cut and I think one other), but no working circuits. This means the grounds from the front harness are not really associated with the B fuse, and the fact that both melt is a coincidence, not a cause and effect relationship. So when we fix the front grounding problem we are fixing problems related to accessory circuits and the A fuse. This led me to start looking at the main harness. It appears the B fuse supplies all of the engine management circuits – ignition coils, injectors, TPS, O2s, etcetera. Loss of voltage in these circuits would logically seem to cause drivability problems, so I popped of the right fairing and pulled all of the engine management connectors apart. Nothing appeared to be wrong, no visible corrosion or anything, but I checked all of the female connectors and attempted to tighten any that looked to be too open, applied magical Volvo grease, and plugged everything back together. Viola! Drivability problem gone – smooth as glass at any steady throttle setting from 3500rpm up and now the B fuse is cool to the touch. Why did the problem seem heat sensitive? The only thing I can determine is a couple of the right side electrical connectors lay against the upper radiator hose, and once the coolant started to flow the connectors heated up and raised the resistance in already marginal connections. The message here – when you’re working on your B fuse problems, check those engine management harness connectors! I apologize for the long post, but I hope it helps someone else. Quick Update. Two weeks, 1000+ miles, ambient temps from 47 - 94, and coolant temps from 170 - 223, still smooth. No surging, no missing, and the B fuse is staying cool. I've owned this bike for two years and 17,000 miles (had less than 2k on it when I bought it) and it has never ran this well at steady state cruise speeds. Now it's no not just fun to ride, but a pleasure to ride!! fing02.gif