enzed_viffer

Yeah, I thought that too, based on a quick squizz at pictures. Let us know if they do fit. I'm still tempted to go for Vespa indicators, because (a) they come with clear or orange lenses, (B) they're the right size and shape, and © they're only NZ$22 complete with bulbs! :thumbsup: Trouble is, the WifeAccountantPorcupine sees this mod as "unnecessary fiddling" and will go nuts if I do further mods to "our" bike without permission (like the Fiamm horns, the speedo convertor, the new cush rubbers, the Dragon sticker...) At the moment, I'm really champing at the bit to go down the road to the marine shop and buy a Blue Sea fuse block to tidy up my farkles... I can manage without it, but ... but... but it's just SO kewl! When I rang her to discuss it, her wayward workmate had dragged her (not that she probably resisted too much) down to the nearby designer clothes store to look at expensive clothes. I'm hoping she corrupted her. Again. Although the last episode cost several thousand dollars... :rolleyes:

What exactly did you mean by, "push the grill material out through the openings" ? What sort of mesh is this - stainless, or aluminum? Oh - great mod, by the way! :thumbsup:

Only the fourth, Muzzah - the third gen can have the eccentric flipped without anything else needing to be done. I reckon it would be pretty easy to make a CF undertray, which would also mean that problems of heat transferance would be minimised. Did you see the link I posted yesterday to that RC51 underseat zorst? I'd like to see summat like that on a VFR. I'd volunteer to be first, but first I'd have to divorce/kill my wife.... Here we go: http://www.honda-rc51.de/RC_reworked_2006_17-Web.jpg

The advantage of putting perforated core in, rather than just leaving all the guts out, is that you will get better exhaust gas flow. Plus it should sound better (less like a clapped-out muffler).

Most exhausts are like this: my VFR750 was the same, and my VTR1000. It's a fairly standard construction.

Eggs Zachary what I was going to suggest, but without the packing. You should be able to get s/steel perforated core from any muffler shop (or at least those that make their own mufflers). I bought some core a couple of years ago when I was trying to quieten my butchered (not by me) zorsts on my VTR1000. If you were to put perforated tube in the zorst, it would be essentially the same as most aftermarket ones, except the heavy-duty stainless that Sankei use to make these things would make it resonate/vibrate less, so if anything it would sound better.

I really like the concept of these, but I'm not sure I like the looks. For what they cost, I'd want to be ecstatic about them...

vfrcapn, Rob - will the metal undertray make it noisy from the point of view of resonance and gravel and other objects hitting it? I guess if that's the case, you could coat it with say, that bedliner used for trucks etc., or something similar? We likessss cussstom thingies, we doessss!! :biggrin:

My Fiamm Snail-type horns are supposedly only 110dB. Could be louder. I reckon that maybe the inoffensive horn thing is because melodiously tootling loud horns at one another is anathema to Japanese? Anyway, what I'd really like is the fantastic, chromed, low-tone beauty they used to fit to the early/mid 70s CB350. Probably a Japanese copy of a Cadillac horn or somesuch.

That's a heck of a current; would it be continuous, and mostly when they're first spooling up? But in any case - if anyone wants better horns, I'd use a relay and some thicker than OEM wire (even with the OEM horn). It makes a huge difference to their efficiency. On the VFR750, I fitted an extra disk-type horn (Hella, or some cheap Japanese or Italian brand), and wired both horns through a relay to big wires from the battery. It was "OW!! Never, ever do that again, Dad!" loud. I really MUST take my fairing off and take some photos of my install (carefully doctored to make the lasagne brackets look meticulously crafted...) :idea3:

No, MY bad. I haven't had lunch, because I left my wallet at home, so I'm a bit snippy today. :biggrin: Plus I'm enjoying some LOVELY withdrawl symptoms from refusing to take my venlafaxine. :schla15: But I tell you what - I feel almost ME! Yay, me!! :idea3:

To me it was unclear from your post what brand of horn you are talking about. True, it was. I apologise profusely for my omission. If I was rude, and not a lovely, polite Kiwi, then I would say something about "Oh - that's right; you're one of those Murkns they make those programs on TV for that repeat the facts in painful detail every few minutes, to make sure your attention span hasn't been exceeded and you've forgotten what we're talking about." :schla15: But I'm not like that, so I'll just patiently reply thusly: They are Fiamm (AM80 Super) horns. :biggrin: I also won't point out that if you scroll up a few posts, you will see I mentioned that they were Fiamms. :idea3: And because I'm polite, helpful, and have little better to do (apart from work, but it's Friday afternoon, and I'm tahhhrrrrd), I will even RE-post a picture of them for you:

It's unlikely that you'll find anyone here that's cut up a horn and can give you a clear answer. I was tempted to cut a piece off the side of one of my horns to get it to fit, but luckily I didn't need to. However, while they do have trumpets, they're not airhorns. I doubt that it would have wrecked them or changed the tone, as they're basically the disk-type horns with a sort of plastic "snail shell" added to them.

Yeah, I know that feeling. Never mind - my Invisible Fiamm Horn Installation seems to work OK. Not as loud as a Stebel perhaps, but better'n stock by a long chalk.

Interesting read, Dude! I found especially interesting what you said about your bike being bouncy and that softening up the rear suspension helped. I think a lot of bikers have this weird "go along with the herd" mentality, and that the closer they get to having their bike setup like a racer's, the better it will be. In my experience I've found that running super tight suspension and really low tyre pressures just doesn't work well on the street, unless you've got smooth streets with no potholes, bumps and ripples, and you're running race tyres at race pace.

Whelp, I finally got TheDave to reprogram the micro a few weeks ago. It now flashes rapidly, slowing down to a steady on. It took several iterations of the code before I said, "Yeah, that'll do." Not exactly how I wanted it, but near enuff. I had him add a few extra flashes too, to extend the BlinkyTime. He replaced the micro ("They're pretty cheap, and I dunno if it's getting tired yet..."), and while it was all off, I replaced the horrible bullet connectors on the taillight wiring and the flasher unit with a couple of male/female 2-pin plugs. Apart from installing a fuse board and louder horn(s), I think I'm about done with LeckTrickleFarkling now, although I know where I can get a cheap motorcycle alarm...

One more tip - don't use a match on the heatshrink. Use a hot air gun, or the shank of the soldering iron above the tip (it's hot, but not as hot as the tip). I found the method where you wrap thin solder around the splice to be a good one for large gauge wires, as it holds them together better, and you get solder more evenly distributed around and through the join. Cleanliness is very important: the tip of the soldering iron, and the wires to be joined must be free of grease and/or corrosion or you're wasting your time. If the wires are hard to join before you solder them, use a crimp first to join the wires, then heat the crimp with the iron before applying solder to it.

I think what is important with the shifter kit is to install it before your gearchanges start getting bad and the gearbox starts getting tired. Even waiting (as I did) until the effects of your SerialTransmissionWreckingWays take effect in the form of missed shifts and false neutrals, the Evo Star is still beneficial. I often forget I've got the thing installed. I wrote up a report on my install for Kiwi Biker, and the comment from one of the many Suzuki GSXR riders was, "So... now it shifts like a Suzuki? Why not just buy a Suzuki then?"

I installed some resistors when I had a borrowed PCII to try out on my 2001 VFR. When I returned the PCII, I left the resistors in, as I did not like the lean surging and open loop/closed loop transition I had with the O2 sensors connected. Now the bike doesn't run perfectly below 5000 rpm, but I feel it's definitely better than with the sensors connected. YMMV.... EDIT: Looking at the PC map that worked best for me, it seems that my bike may now be running a little lean at 2-5% throttle below 5.5K rpm, without the PC to correct for this.

That's apparently why tail-light flashers are currently illegal here: target fixation. Strangely though, the SafetyNazis are now talking about making headlight and taillight modulators (and fluro clothes) compulsory for motorcyclists. I stole it. Reminds me though - I must uninstall my flasher and get the micro reprogrammed to do that. Should be.... oooh... a 10-minute job.

I just use Vesrah filters, as that seems to be all the dealers here have.

How I wired mine was to ground it using a spade connector, under the right-rear grab handle bolt. I cut the Green/Yellow going to both brake lights and put female bullet connectors on the side coming from the wiring loom, and male bullet connectors on the other cut end. The input on the modulator had a male bullet connector, which went into one of the female plugs. The output on the modulator had a "Y" with a female connector on each end. The male connectors on each brakelights' green/yellow wires plugged into these. One female green/yellow connector is unplugged, but I may yet use both brakelights' wires as inputs, as the modulator consumes a slight amount of power when running, so I'm losing a slight amount by having a one wire input. Does that make sense? If, at any stage I take the modulator out (say, it blows up), I can just unplug it, and plug the brakelight wires back together again.

Heheh :beer: After my email to all staff this morning about parking nicely next to the bike park, one of the other motorcyclists was talking to me. He mentioned that he didn't think it was right "that 50cc scooters don't have to have a Warrant of Fitness, and only just the other day he saw one that had a smashed up rear end and red cellophane for the taillight and that was just wrong and there should be a law change and ..." "Nathan - I don't agree; you're obviously a SafetyNazi! There are far too many laws, rules and regulations already. Just let it go, Dude!" I think Nathan rides his bike (2005 SV650) just because it's economical. Talking to him about bikes is just like talking to someone who doesn't understand what motorcycling is all about...