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JZH

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Everything posted by JZH

  1. Well, 4.000mi plus whatever you did to get them out... Bearings are usually installed using the outer race, which puts no stress on the balls and inner race. But bearings are usually removed by exerting force on the inner race, which does. Ciao,
  2. Update re the Mitsibishi COPs: The Mitsu COPs (centre, below) are very similar to the Denso ones, but longer than the short Densos: The Mitsu grommets (left, below) are larger than the big Denso grommets... ...but still don't really fit the RC36 valve cover holes properly: The photo above shows the Mitsu grommet crammed into the RC36 valve cover (on a short Denso COP), which sort of works, but without modification of the grommet the COP is actually not fully engaged with the threads on the top of the spark plug. The grommet would need to be opened up to allow the COP to sit deeper within it. Maybe the "new style" short Denso COP would fit better? Hello, eBay... Ciao,
  3. Crickets! Well, I'm not finished with the idea, yet. I've completed the table a bit more (updated in the post above) and found someone on the web who had observed that if the only reason for wiring the COPs in series was to increase their resistance, the same result could be achieved by wiring in a 1 Ohm 20W resistor. Would that really work? I suppose it would--if wiring in series "works", that is... I would like to know if the people who had already tried this on 3rd-4th gens had wired the COPs in series or in parallel. Maybe I can piece it together from the thread? Forgot to mention: I test -fit a 3440 and a 4800, which are a short, internal grommet, old style COP and a long, external grommet, old style COP, respectively. The long is way too long. The short looks to be a good fit for the RC36 front cylinders--once fully inserted it doesn't really protrude much more than the OEM plug boot and is not much bulkier (I didn't try it with the OEM fan). The grommets don't do much sealing, however, even the external one. A really thick o-ring would probably seal better--something like 4mm), but wouldn't really be an ideal solution. However, I did some more poking around the 'Web and discovered that the Yamaha R6 (1999-2002) used Mitsubishi F6T549-9630 COPs, which appear to be quite similar to the short Denso COPs (and the spec seems to be similar as well). I've ordered some to test because they appear to have fairly large-diameter external grommets that might just be the right size to cover the RC36 plug opening... I live in hope! Ciao,
  4. If I had a CNC mill, I'd be making something like this: Sadly, I do not, but some Chinese dude obviously does: eBay 261358076567 (about US$14, shipped). Ciao,
  5. did a bunch of research online the other day and ordered a couple of stray COPs off eBay to look at. I've now got a long one and a short one, one with an internal grommet and one with an external grommet. (A 3440 and a 4800.) I think the RC36 needs a short one, but I don't know yet until I test-fit. I would want GSXR-style external grommets if possible, or adapt the OEM external grommets. All this was gleaned from the web, so all data is somewhat suspect... In particular I would ignore the Ohm readings, as they're susceptible to wide variation due to different testing apparatuses producing different values. What does seem significant is this (note that some of these bikes use two coils, rather than four): I'd guess that all of the Denso part numbers above actually have the same spec, but that could be wrong. I could not find any official Denso specs, but the various Suzuki, Kawasaki, KTM and Honda manuals should list specs. Am I right in thinking that an OEM 4-coil setup like the 3rd-4th gen would need to have 1.5 Ohm COPs wired in series? Ciao,
  6. Umm... Has everyone given up on this by now? Ciao,
  7. I have to admit the white scheme is growing on me. I still want the red one, though! Ciao,
  8. RaceBolt, too, I think. I have some that are more of an OEM-type flush-fit without the safety wire drillings. Ciao,
  9. I'm glad you can still afford the good stuff...after splashing out on all that Titanium! It's a good thing you haven't discovered what you can get from Titan Classics. Oops... Ciao,
  10. If you don't want to notch the wheel, you could just replace the disc bolts instead... I always get the nomenclature wrong, but I think they're BMW "S1000R" disc bolts. I used some titanium ones off eBay, but you could also use OEM BMW. There's enough clearance on the other side for flanged nylock nuts--at least there was on my 3rd gen. Ciao,
  11. I've always preferred SP1 red myself, but damn that bike looks sweet! Ciao,
  12. Ooouuurrr... Hate those sodding things, personally. Someone must make nice, machined clamshells into which a RAM ball can be installed. Whoops, thread-jack... Ciao,
  13. I doubt there's clearance, but you could clamp to the cross-bar. Ciao,
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