JZH

Sounds like raising the rear 20mm was a wee bit too much? I don't know if there's scope in the forks/clamps, but in theory, if you now raised the front a little, e.g., 5mm, you might recapture some of the lost trail... The VFR chassis was unfortunately never designed for race-type geometry changes, and I've never heard of anything in the aftermarket which could provide that kind of adjustability for it. Ciao, JZH

Well, if he's going to sell the brackets, there's probably a (small) market for a simple(r) bolt-on solution. In addition to the SP2 calipers, there are 3-4 visually similar versions of those calipers available with different piston sizes. 929, 954, etc. I used to have some black ones from an early CBR600RR on my RC36 (or were they from an F4i?) Matched with the correct master cylinder, they are all more than adequate. (I also had VTR1000F calipers on my first VTR1000F fork conversion, and they worked well--just not as well as the newer design.) Ciao, JZH

Lol, I hope so. I'm still resident in the UK, where modified vehicles are fairly easily registrable. I'd heard the RDW was a lot friendlier than the German equivalent? (But then, what isn't!) Yes, I will definitely start a new thread when the puzzle pieces have fallen into place. Ciao, JZH

Thanks, I will endeavour to do so. It's going to be a bit of work (and more money) to install it on my other 5th gen, since I will probably have to make a new bracket, at the minimum. But this kit will definitely save me a ton of time and expense. And mega thanks to vfrcapn for making it happen! Ciao, JZH

Shorter update: I bought it! I will be putting it on my blue 5th gen, so I will need to make a new mounting bracket and some other parts. Ciao, JZH

FYI, couldn't get my bike out of the NL warehouse (to take with me back to the UK), because the paperwork wasn't ready. I will try again when I'm back in NL in a few weeks, but unfortunately I won't be able to measure or photograph anything until then. But you seem like you're well on your way! I'll keep that lower subframe bolt in mind--that seems like the way to go. Thanks. Ciao, JZH

I'm still trying to get my yellow bike out of Rotterdam (might be tomorrow, might not...), but I've found some pics from the install on my bike. You can see some significant differences in the way everything mounts--but that may not matter a lot in practice. My belt is 960mm, for example, but if you're using different brackets, the Rotrex may not be in the same position anyway. The top mount is very different--I'm surprised it worked at all on a 5th gen! But, it may be that the 6th gen's changes simply forced Dan to do things differently, even if that way would have worked on the 5th gen as well. I like how the rear idler pulley support mounts--that looks like a better design than on mine. Ciao, JZH

The Morgan Carbtune-II was a quirky alternative to the US-standard Motion Pro mercury carb sticks--until consumer mercury was effectively banned over the last 20 years or so. The vacuum gauges were always an option, but supposedly were subject to flutter in use, making them hard to read. I don't mind the Carbtune--it works well enough for me. Ciao, JZH

Okay, that makes sense. The Rotrex mounting bracket is definitely different. I might be able to help you figure some of that out... Looky what has just arrived from overseas: I'm not sure I'm thrilled with the way they've tied it down inside the container (I think it's on the side stand), but at least it doesn't look like it's fallen over! (The side fairings had been removed by me previously and are packed separately in one of those boxes...) Ciao, JZH

Is that a 6th-gen kit, or did Dan change some of the components during the 5th-gen run? Ciao, JZH

I'm still curious which bike the other top yoke is from... Ciao, JZH

Correct. Although in Europe there are no PAIR hoses for it to wrap around... Unfortunately, I don't have any good pictures of those ducts on my UK-spec FP, but there would have been two, originally, one on each side, and both were impressively designed and moulded by some no doubt expensive manufacturing process. We know this because when it came to accommodating the US-spec PAIR system late in the design process, the proper Honda engineers had all gone on holiday and the job was left to some work experience kids (presumably), who proceeded to just cut up some scrap rubber sheet, fold it over, punch holes in it and go off to the pub. Ciao, JZH

I love Rivnuts. Especially stainless steel ones (but use anti-seize). Ciao, JZH

...OT, but I just ordered an Einstar 3D scanner (mainly to assist with my ill-advised van engine swap project). But, this reminds me that a 3D scanner should make copying simple machined parts a lot easier. That bracket, for example, would be a doddle. (Supercharger brackets, too...) Reducing millions of data points to a usable Fusion 360 CAD drawing will be a challenge, but I've seen it done, so I've got my fingers crossed that I can also do it. Ciao, JZH

The 000 to D00 change could signify a change, but maybe not a noticeable one. It could be something like different paint or primer. But, the 000 should still fit, if that's the original part number (and 000 usually is). Ciao, JZH

Look on the underside of the top yokes. Check if both say "MGB". I'm guessing one does not... Ciao, JZH

True! Not aware of anyone making that kind of adapter/bracket commercially, though. Ciao, JZH

Also, I believe someone (does/used to) sell replacement tubes in aluminium--but, you'd have to take the carbs apart to install them. Ciao, JZH

The last digit in the part number should be the "subcontractor designation", which suggests no supersession. https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BHondaPartNumbers.htm Using that kit, the bike would have to be pre-wired, as it doesn't include any wiring harness. I've seen a wiring harness (or at least a sub-wiring harness) for that kit, but even it appears to need plugging in to some existing socket (i.e., it doesn't connect to the battery terminals). That said, and having wired OEM Honda heated grips into other bikes, wiring them in is fairly straightforward, even without a purpose-built harness. Ciao, JZH

IIRC, OEM VFR fork springs are more of a "dual-rate", rather than straight-rate (or truly progressive)? There is no practical way to improve the front brakes very much without spending either some or a lot of money. Harrison Billet (https://www.billet.co.uk/index2.html?home.html~mainFrame) is apparently still in business, and makes 6-piston caliper kits for the VFR750 (~£800 + VAT). (Yes, most people have the same reaction...) Most people who do continue down this path end up doing a fork swap, which is the cheapest and simplest way to improve the brakes, but involves a bit of work (to a lot of work, depending on "how fast you wanna stop"). At the cheaper end of fork swaps is the CBR600F3/VTR1000F swap, which can be as simple as rebuilding your existing forks with the lowers from one of those bikes. For more time, money, complications and bling, you can do bigger forks, USD forks, radial calipers, etc.--all without ever having to use aftermarket parts. Ciao, JZH

Does look sweet! I've got 4th gen footpegs on my '93, but I have omitted the metal shields on both sides, and my rear master cylinder is not exactly OEM, either... Ciao, JZH

They are likely bespoke screws with retained washers. Yes, 4x12 would be M4 x 12mm long. Pitch would be standard pitch; Honda only used finer pitch for M10 and above. Ciao, JZH

For anyone who doesn't know, Presson is referring to an infamous thread from many years back, featuring an indefatigable former forum member's efforts to "unleash the factory power" he was absolutely convinced (despite all the evidence) Honda had engineered into the VFR engine (and then mysteriously restricted before selling the bikes to the public). A few simple tweaks would be all it needed... 🐱 Unfortunately for Timuli, I think he has been "led down the garden path" by his machine shop. Keeping a job for three months and only then telling him about the problems when he asked is a very bad sign. You're almost glad they gave up, rather than tried to "finish" a job they clearly cannot do. An expensive route would be to ship the engine block to TTS in the UK. I don't know why it is so difficult to bore these engines, but they have done it many times (twice for me), and certainly know what they're doing. However, looking on their website today, I don't see any machine shop services being offered anymore, nor big bore kits being sold. They are the UK's Rotrex supercharger distributor, and all their work now seems to be on supercharger kits. Still, Richard Albans (the founder) might be able to advise Timuli, or recommend a shop closer to him which can do the job. Ciao, JZH

32006 is a standard bearing number, which measures 30 x 55 x 17. The top bearing should be a non-standard 32005/26, which measures 26 x 47 x 15. Note that a "standard" 32005 has an ID of 25mm, hence the "/26" to indicate that it is not a standard 32005. Are they the right bearings for the 6th gen? Probably! Those two bearings are the same for many, many Hondas, including the 3rd and 4th gens. https://www.vsource.org/VFR-RVF_files/BBearings.htm Ciao, JZH

Good point--the US bikes have running lights in the indicators; ROW bikes generally do not. Not sure if that still applies to 5th gens (it did to 3rd and 4th gens). If steady amber running lights are not allowed, the third wires can simply be disconnected. I'm aware of the "sidelight" in the headlight housing. I may have added it already to this bike (me being such a Europhile...) I know I did it for one of my bikes! It is an easy upgrade. All you need to do is step-drill an appropriately sized hole and press a rubber OEM sidelight bulb holder into it. All easily accessible through the "tip-over indicator" panel underneath the top fairing. I just hope they don't ask about the weird belt and pulley system hanging off the RHS of the engine... Ciao, JZH