JZH

That's a great deal. I thought you'd have blown it with the cheeky under-BIN offer, though! Here's my latest eBay find: I paid the equivalent of $70.50 for this book, but it was in an ebay.fr auction, priced in euros, so I imagine it went under most people's radar. Yes, it's a 33 year-old used book with some old guy on the cover, but it goes for $400-500 in good condition (my snipe was at $200). Two more volumes and I'm up-to-date! Ciao,

They are not dead-on centre. In another thread on here somewhere I recounted measuring my NR750 rear wheel and an NC24 rear wheel, and despite being vastly different wheels (17" magnesium/unobtanium vs. mass-produced aluminum 18") they had the exact same offset (whatever it was). Ciao,

Well, some years ago when I bought a new, ueber-rare Honda frame from David Silver Spares (not an actual Honda dealer, true) I was informed that it had no frame number, which I acknowledged and then duly provided my credit card details. It's not illegal to buy an unstamped frame, but stamping your own number onto it is a bit tricky... Ciao,

I don't know if Service Honda's database is completely accurate, but if you did get a frame, it would have no VIN on it, so you'd have to figure out how to get the bike registered w/o VIN or frame number of any kind. (Stamping your own extra VFR's frame number onto it would be a big no-no!) Thanks for the scans, btw. I've known Rick for years, ever since I bought one of his NC30/VFR750 rear wheel conversion kits in the late 90's, but I've never met him in person. A few years ago Rick helped me get an RC30 rear hub modified to accept an NR rear wheel, but rather than pay him cash he insisted I send him some VFR750 parts for a "project" he was working on. Now, I don't know if any of my old FL's parts are actually on that bike, but it would be nice to think they'd been made good use of! Ciao,

There's a pic of that hose in my first post. I think it's the one for the fast-idle wax unit, so only on Y2k and '01 bikes. My US source was Flex Technologies in Torrance, CA. Ciao,

Sorry, no updates. As per usual, I am thousands of miles away from my 5th gen (and its headlight unit). Cueue the violins... Ciao,

According to CMS (Netherlands), that part number has been superseded; the current part number is 31100-MCW-325. That said, I don't know what that part is. The middle section "MCW" means that whatever it is, it was originally designed for the VTEC RC46, so at least you know that much. Ron Ayers' site says the part is not in their microfiche system (but they can supply it if you want it), which is consistent with a repair/service kit. They are parts that are developed after the bike was designed, so it makes sense that they may not be in the microfiche. Ciao,

NR bodywork, including tail. Now if you want the real thing: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5195f99f7c The same seller has been flogging the same NR bodywork on eBay for years w/no takers. I nearly bought that same fairing (I'm pretty sure it was the same one) about eight years ago when David Silver Spares had it listed on their "stock list", but it had been sold before I could convince myself it was a good inventment! I think it was only about UKP1,200 then... And they had an unstamped NR frame for UKP350. And a set of instruments (including "holographic" speedo) for UKP250. Ah, those were the days... Ciao,

Be careful trying to use a drill press as an end mill. The spindle is not stiff enough and will probably bend, causing life long wobbles from that point on. Been there, done that. *Depending on the drill press*, he should be fine. I have done some light milling with my drill press, even something very similar to what was mentioned. Be sure that the work piece is clamped 110%, and also ALL axis of the press. Change the speed on the press to suit the material. Use WD40 for lubrication. Use cutters that have 4 flutes at minimum, more is better wit ha small uptick in speed and a very slow & steady hand you can obtain nice results with no chatter. A spot weld drill may do the same job for less money, but I have yet to try that. I have used 1/8", 1/2", and 5/8" cutters in my Rigid floor pedestal press to mill and shape various materials and small aluminum parts. Milling with a regular drill press will accelerate wear on the shaft and bearings, and it's also dangerous. I don't recommend doing this unless you have a background in working with some sort of machining equipment as the potential for getting seriously hurt is high. Thanks, Seb, for sharing your experience! I will be extra careful... Ciao,

Yeah, looks great...now get 'er clothes off! Ciao,

That's one way of putting it... Ciao,

I haven't chimed in because, although I've investigated this for years and have gathered two sets of RC51/929 parts to do the swap on two of my bikes... ...I haven't actually done it. Anyway, speaking of RC51 lower triples, one thing I've noodled about from time to time is the lock-stop issue. (The cast stops on the RC51 triple are incompatible with the VFR's frame, so people generally grind them off the RC51 triple and make new ones in the correct positions.) I've seen it done a few different ways, but not having access to a machine shop, I'm struggling to figure out an easy way to make new stops. But then I had this idea, see... How about taking an end mill of an appropriate size, say 12.7mm, popping it in an everyday drill press and cutting straight down into precisely measured locations in the gull-arm's angled surface (which would be suitably anchored to the drill press). If I cut just enough to allow a circular spacer of appropriate length to sit perfectly vertically, secured with a socket cap screw threaded directly into the triple clamp, it should work great, right? (I hope so, because I added a 1/2" HSS end mill to my last McMaster-Carr order...) Ciao,

In that case... a triple measure malt for puling a stoppie!!!! Going backwards, perhaps? Ciao,

It really needs to be a full four-leaf clover before I'd buy it... Ciao,

Join the club! Ciao,

These sealed fuse holders are actually made by Delphi and re-packaged by Buss/NAPA. They're part of the Metri-Pack family. I'm now using Metri-Pack 280 and 630 sealed connectors on my bikes' critical electrical components these days. You can get them from Mouser Electronics and Waytek, Inc. in the 'States. Eastern Beaver also sells pre-made fuse holders. (That said, that price for a complete, high quality sealed ATO fuse holder is very good!) Ciao,

What? No spinning LEDs? Ciao,

Sorry, don't have dimensions for the 929 (MCJ), but FYI, I have measured the FT, Fi, VTEC and 900RRX (MAS) link plates, which measure as follows (measured from shock to swing arm to link to shock): VFR750FT: 84x84x55 VFR800Fi: 70x64x78; VFR800 VTEC: 65x60x63; CBR900RRX: 76x77x70. Ciao,

Only the RS250 is "backwards"; the other Honda SSSA wheels can be made to fit, but it helps if you're an engineer with a fully equipped machine shop... Ciao,