MarkDetroit

TurdFerguson - If you search you'll find a lot of posts on the flapper, snorkel, PAIR mods. I've made these mods on other bikes I've owned with no ill effects. When I did the same for my 2006 VFR it ran rough especially right off idle. After a week I put it back to stock. Smoothed it right out. No more off idle stumbles. I also had the insufficient cold idle speed problem. The PO had just upped the rpm's with the idle knob but that made the idle when warm like 1600 rpm. I set the warm idle back to 1200 and adjusted the wax unit setting. As I recall it only took about one turn of the adjusting knob to give a decent cold idle speed. A lot of folks say you never need to, and should never, adust the wax unit. And that's probably true if it was adjusted right initially... YMMV Good luck

Voltage output at idle is never very impressive. Is this like 1300 RPM? What's it like above idle - like 3000 and above? How many miles on your bike?

You've got a great looking RWB! I don't know how many miles there on it but just one toasty looking fuse holder does not mean you need a new R/R! If it were my decision I'd change out the fuse holder, check and upgrade a few connectors and grounds and add an easy way to check voltage. The original OEM R/R should be good for well more than 35k+ miles with normal bike maintenance & monitoring. Good Luck!

I just checked and I used a 12 awg wire 30A fuse holder when I did mine 5 years ago and it has held up well. A 10 awg will be ok too. You are right - most of the electrical issues were resolved starting with the 2006 models and adding the VFRness is an over-kill, (IMO). Cleaning contacts & improving the grounds made a huge difference for my 2006.

Change it out with a new 30A fuse holder. You won't be successfull if you just try and clean the contacts. I'm surprised it's lasted this long. Likely other grounds and connections need maintenance also.

Bummer to have a bike new to you have such problems. Do you know the maintenance history of your bike? If you are not certain then there will be a bunch of things to check out. You say the bike is running rich - or at least smells that way. That by itself is not normal. Have you looked at the air filter to see if there have been mice building a home in there? This is not uncommon at all. If the bike hasn't been well cared and sat unused for a long period of time then the fuel system should be looked at carefully. Is there any evidence of corrosion in the tank? Do you know what modifications were done by the past owners? I'd check those things over carefully to see if they were done right. Good Luck

Flashing of brake lights is a good thing. Anything to wake up the distracted drivers behind you. A friend of mine died when he stopped for a light and the lady behind him didn't. I've set the backoff module to work with LED's on a license plate frame. I think it's hard not to notice.

Kelowna is beautiful - great area. As mentioned, it's most likely electrical. There are so many things to check and withoiut a good background it coud be a waste of your time. And this is not the time to try and educate yourself in an area you've never needed before. (And you could damage something by mistake.) If it's not just loose battery terminals or a dying battery, if I were you I'd quickly revert to having a dealer take care of it. Dealers around me will come and pick up your bike for a small charge. Or if you have towing coverage on your insurance just call them and have it picked up. (I've never done that but do have friends that have done it.) Don't beat yourself up. And don't waste the riding season.

You should ride both and decide that way. One will feel better. IMO - If they won't let you ride it then don't buy it.

Hey, I thought you already had put in a new switch... In any case it would be good to get all the old pieces back to see how they test out.

Standard 6th gen chain is 110 links (count to make sure that's what you got). And sprockets F/R are 16/43 (OEM front preferred IMO). You may be judging the wear indicator incorrectly... (I really don't use that indicator for rear sprocket position at all - too subjective.) And your measurement of play may be off. (I'd suggest to adjust to the high end). Likely the chain is ok and if there are no tight spots and if it is not over tight - you are good to go.

Phong, Please let us know what you have found. We all need the education! Thanks

This is a challenging problem. It certainly seems as though the fan switch is not the problem. But before I pull the thermostat I would make sure the switch does work by testing it out of the bike (in the kitchen). And then I would take the pump apart to make sure the impeller or drive coupling are not damaged or free spinning. Those are the easy things. Then possibly the problem is the ECT sensor (engine coolant temp sensor) that sends the coolant temp signal to the dash and ECU. Maybe the engine is not getting excessively hot at all but the ECT is sending bogus info... Unfortunately you have to pull the throttle bodies to remove the ECT sensor from the head to test it. So when you do the thermostat, and if it doesn't look or test bad, make sure you check the ECT before putting it all back together.