BusyLittleShop

Pit Bull stand work great in getting the wheel off but if you wish to adjust the chain or remove the swingarm... you need a pair of hard stands under the foot pegs...

How did you determine that one oil has a 5% shift feel versus other oils???

You're welcome... thanks to Miguel for a great site...

After 25 years dealing with customers I think its not a question of oil so much as a question of technique and clutch... RC30 and RC45 owners will ask for the same slick shifting oil that made their friend's RC30 and RC45 shift so smoothly after it left the Busy Little Shop... I hate to break it to them but it wasn't the oil that made the difference it was rider technique and the elimination of clutch drag... so before I will dump one slick shifting oil for the next slick shifting oil I work with them on their technique and their clutch... then and only then will they understand that they were fooled into thinking it was the oil when in fact it was technique and clutch... I think we are after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its the first step of seemless shifting in MotoGp... Here are the steps how to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear... 4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake... does this action drag down the engine rpms??? If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check for bubbles... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop spinning when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

I don't know... I mentioned Helix because it was the first 5W40 Shell oil I could find to compare with Shell's 5W40 Rotella...

Negative... for a 40wt its flows less during critical start up than Shell's own Helix 40wt... Shell Helix 40wt is the same thickness as Rotella 40wt but Helix is just refined higher to flow more... which is a premium quality in your choice of 40wt oils... again flow is what lubricates our engines not pressure... if you wish to stay with Rotella family look to Shells Rotella 10W 30 as a better choice... Quote Shell Rotella T 5W40 synthetic oil... At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 95 At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 15 Quote Shell Helix 5W 40 synthetic oil... At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 76 At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 13.8 Quote Shell Rotella T 10W30 synthetic oil... At 40ºC / 104ºF viscosity = 83 At 100ºC / 212ºF viscosity = 12.1

Speaking of dirty... do you clean the oil that flings off after every ride or just let it build???

Whether you intended it or not... that line is pure comedy... WTG!!!

Thanks... I just love a good oil thread...

Negative... it's not the flim but the additives that protect lodes... until you mic the cams you're just guessing about wear...

Hi there fellow V4 owners :) I am wanting to try and find information on a bike I've just managed to find buried in a guys garage here in New Zealand and I thought on the off chance it may be loosely based on this RC36RR project-I purchased the bike last week as RC30/RC45s are getting too hard to find, and too pricey for me! If you have a spare few moments I value your thoughts on the machine below, and indeed any suggestions you may offer with which I could improve it- it will be seeing track day work as well as a road bike from days gone by for me, I was racing the early 'blades on the national circuit in the mid '90's and this era of bike holds a lot of nostalgia for me- along with the fact this is an Aaron Slight(from NZ) replica:) Specs that I know: 1991 VFR750 (RC36) frame CBR900 Forks/Triple clamps/Brakes?/and 16" Front Wheel RC45 Replica Body Kit Free Flow Exhaust Vapor digital dash with lap timers/shift light etc(can be re calibrated if I was to move to a 17 " front wheel) Rear Suspension appears to be the factory RC36 unit with pre-load adjustable only, This is one thing I would like your thoughts on, I'm around 95KG and would like to be able to adjust Rebound/Compression or at least rebuild this one to a suitable state for track work. I haven't found any Numbers on the engine casings as have yet to strip it down, the gentleman I bought it off also is unsure of the history and it's rumored to be an HRC motor, and he mentioned the model RC41 though I know this is prob not the case! Although I haven't had the bike long enough to Dyno, or test on the track yet it has a feeling of a lot more than the factory 100 HP, I also own a 2010 ZX14, 2007 Moto Morini Corsaro and am currently involved with Ducati NZ/Australia as an NZ tester along with writing for New Zealand's largest bike magazine,Kiwirider- and I would love to try and figure out more on this bike in order to put it in the magazine! Here in NZ second hand or aftermarket spares for the older bikes are quite rare so any input you may be able to offer me to get this bike up to a standard I'll be happy with would be greatly appreciated, and I'd like to say the members adaptatons with the RC36RR look great :) . I can provide better quality pics with more detail at any stage. Regards and thank you for your time and any input, Gav New Zealand Very nicely done... I saved your pics in my files... thanks for posting...

Yes I agree... I'm always impressed with Rob's level of help and if he ever returns to Laguna Seca I owe him dinner at Bubba Gumps and a test hop on you know who...

I agree... once and for all let's see what the unwanted bump in an other wise perfect V4 power band looks like on paper...

Dyno proof how VTEC destroys the linear curve of the V4... why just look at that unwanted bump in the power band... mercy Honda... VTEC... Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... worked on heavy cars but it's a failure on light bikes...

True. As long as the belt lasts 5k to 10k miles I don't see a problem. Well, other than it looks hideous on an RC45, but that's just my personal opinion. My experience is that a belt will last 3 times longer than chain... but then again I believe a chain needs replacements at 10K... You're not the only one who thinks its hideous... in fact the majority of owners in the RC45 Club have threaten to break into the Busy Little Shop and rescue Mr.RC45 so he won't suffer the indignation of an belt mod...

Thanks for the tractor part... but I already considered rollers... but the belt is still too long...

It's gospel... the Gates belt is too short...

No problem... merely working and engineered correctly to last are entirely two different objectives...

No room means that Gates engineering recommends that the smallest idler pulley is 4in because belt life would be considerably shorten if it defected by any smaller of a pulley... that especially means the skate broad wheel spring loaded John Deer combine part you dreamed up...