Duc2V4

OK, the train derailment and possible alien abduction didn't stop UPS from doing their job and I received the All Balls wheel and steering head bearings today. I was able to remove the bearings and seals and the wheel is now at the shop getting powder coated. So the question is, what is the best way to get the new bearings installed? Back when I had a "full service" shop at my disposal, I used a bearing press. I recall putting the bearings in the freezer before installing them but it has been a long time since I've dealt with wheel/axle bearings. I'm sure a hammer and some elbow grease will get the job done, but I don't want to a) Damage the bearings/seals b) Damage/chip the newly coated wheel. There's a shop where I can take it that is really close and where I'll taking it to get the tire mounted, but part of my project is doing most of the work myself. Heck, I went out and bought a bearing puller set and a front bike stand just so I could get this far...I just don't have much room for a bearings press!

Cool, thanks for the responses. I always hate to assume but that's what I figured. It's just that some manufacturers make really good products for certain applications and the others king of fall short...Look at the VFR, awesome bike, not sure about those other Honda products! ;-)

Since I have an 8 spoke coming in next week and I'm going to have it powder coated, I'll need to match the front wheel at the same time, which means removing the seals and bearings. This also means replacing them with new ones (might as well), so the question is, should I just get OEM or go with the All Balls kit? I'm going to do the taper steering bearings, so thought two birds, one stone. Any suggestions one way or the other? BTW, I believe I'll be going with a Gold Metallic color on the rims... Cheers!

I often wonder, "What have I gotten myself into?" whenever installation involves, Sawzall, Deremel, Grinder and the like...But as long as nothing snaps in two, breaks off at the wrong moment, or generally doesn't loose its structural integrity, I guess it's what has to be done! When I bought my Heli-Bars, one if the first instructions is to take a Dremel and cut off one of the banjo bolt stay tabs. I was a little surprised but knowing it was not going to diminish any clutch or braking capability, out came the Dremel. Oh, and any installation that does not involve blood letting is a good one. Knuckle busters are expected when working in tight spaces though. Congrats on your install. Enjoy your "new" bike! Cheers

To go allong with the last few post. Is the gate in decent shape or old and decrepit? You could always offer to build a new gate and just make it a little wider. Win, Win, you get a wider entrance and the landlord gets a new gate. To adress your issue first hand though, have you looked for slightly shorter mirrors? I think the ones for the CBR's might be a little shorter, at least when I look at pictures of them on eBay, but also appear to have the same mounting bracket (don't hold me to this). They may just be short enough to make the bike narrower but still allow decent rear view. I was actually thinking of going this route due to the few close calls I've had when lane splitting. There have been a few vehicles that have their mirrors at about the same height as mine! On my Duc, the mirrors are almost completely useless and would seem that they are only there to make the bike street legal.

i am pretty mechanically inclined and knowledgable, just curious on the brake line differences between 5th and 6th gen One of the members here, Stoshmonster, posted a good write up on 5th vs. 6th Gen braking systems, but it was posted at VFRW (http://vfrworld.com/forums/general-vfr-discussions/34274-slow-speed-maneuver-lbs.html) see post #5