HumalogAddict

You are absolutely right on the settings. I did not notice that. I never changed anything and recall that those were the settings in place (5% and 3400) but who knows. I'll change that back. No changes have been applied and the base maps are the ones I posted earlier on the thread. Quality of fuel should be ok. I have put a few tanks in so far with no noticeable difference so I would rule that out. Voltage going up at idle with high beams also had me wondering so if anyone has any ideas... it does go down with the high beams while revving at 5000rpm though. As for the hard start it really is odd. I don't think it is the battery as it held it's charge without issue for a month at a time this winter but I will go and get it load tested when I get a chance. Maybe the fact that it is correcting at such low rpm actually affects the starts. I unfortunately do not have a voltmeter installed but it's been on the list for years :D I'll replug everything and have a go at it. Thanks again for the insight

Bump :) Bike is still behaving quite badly. Enough so that it died this morning after running a few minutes. Started back up but it would die again if no gas was given. I let it sit a few minutes and then it started back up. I'll pull the RB unit from the bike to see if that makes any difference but would still love to get any insight from you guys. Thanks!

This potentially sounds like a usb driver issue. Is it the same computer you were using before and if so did you upgrade the OS (like switch to Windows 10 for example)? You can also try another USB port. Often they are not set up the same way and some devices will only work in certain slots.

Hey all. So I am almost done with this insane semester at school and finally have a bit of time to work on the bike. I have been using it around town pretty much every day but for short rides as it is not doing too good ufortunately. The bike has been having trouble starting (enough so that I have been charging it every couple of days). It is also very unsmooth when trying to keep it at a constant speed but no problems with acceleration. This has all been happening in colder and warmer weather. The whole bucking and hard start thing felt familiar to when I had issues with the regulator and stator so that got me thinking it was the battery or the charging system. They do seem to check out ok though: - battery at full charge: 13.03v - idle: 14.18v (or 14.35v with the high beams on) - 5000 rpm: 14.45v (or 14.29v with the high beams on) - leakage test: 1.95 mA - beefed up main fuse looks good, fuse on the VFRness looks good, all wires look good, regulator and stator had been replaced and wires beefed up Could this all be potentially caused by the RapidBike unit? It's now been about 800km (about 500 miles) and I have not made any adjustments. Here is what I have: Any other ideas are of course welcome. Thanks!

Beautiful work! And my OCD side was quite happy with your parts pics :)

So we are almost starting to see the end of winter here and with relatively dry roads and a temperature a little above freezing I decided to go for a ride yesterday. Holy crap! This thing has completely changed the bike. Everything is so smooth it's ridiculous. You know how smooth acceleration is before the motor is hot enough to activate the vtec, well it's like that even when the vtec kicks in now. The vtec does give it extra oumpf but there is no more dip in power before it kicks in and no more jerk as it kicks in. Wow. I am incredibly pleased with this product. It does what I always expected the PowerCommander should do but was never able to do. Expensive but so worth it!

Bump :)

So I had a little time today and decided to make sure the o2 sensors were set up correctly. Now please keep in mind I have no clue what I am doing here as I have never played around with these modules but I want to learn I'm certain this will also be useful for the next person who is tackling all of this for the first time. I've read everything I could find, tried finding online tutorials, etc but I simply do not see how I can modify the fueling on one pair of cylinders. I don't want to really modify stuff I'm not familiar with but here is what it currently looks like. I only see one map that has the ignition and injection tabs. Should it be set to one map as it was when I started everything up or should this be changed to show 2 maps on the page pictured below (and if so, it would be the 1-2 // 3-4 option I imagine)? From the screenshots in the various threads people seem to have what I have (one map) except when CandyRedRC46 got his Youtune and his 4 sensors and after that I see he has screenshots with 4 maps, one for each cylinder. So once this has been resolved, I would also just like to confirm how to actually change the "5% at idle". From what I understand, the columns (0%, 5%, 10%, 20%, etc) are the % of throttle like with the PowerCommander software. So adding 5% at idle would be done by entering "5" in the box at the intersection of 1600rpm (applies to 0-1600rpm, so idle) and 0% throttle. Is that correct? I also do not see an apply button on that page so would it be done by pressing send map (ie sending the change to the bike)? I assume I would then see on the Status page that the 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 cylinders have changed readings. And final question (for now hahahaha), am I correct in understanding that in the ignition tab the numbers correspond to a variation of degrees in the timing? Thanks so much for the help!

Excellent, thanks for that. I highly doubt that I will be getting the Youtune unit any time soon though. With the current ridiculous exchange rate (more or less the US price + 40%) it's hard to justify it. I'll double check the sensors, ride with as high octane as I can for a while and get back to you guys :) And just to confirm, you do not recommend changing the engine braking settings at all without having the Youtune? It seemed like a neat feature.

This recap is awesome! The pics are insane, I'm a sucker for the black and neon yellow bike and your writing style is definitely on point. Props for the Tyrone / Dave Chappelle quote on day 1 by the way :) Keep em coming!

Ok cool. Well I will use 94 when possible and 91 otherwise from now on. 93 does not exist in Canada. Thanks!

**update** I've found a place not too far away that has 94 so I would actually be able to mix the 2 bars of 87 with 94 if that is a viable option to draining the 87.

Crap. I get what you are saying and will drain if necessary but just for fun... I currently have 2 bars of 87 gas left and would of course rather not have to drain the gas (ie spill gas, make a mess, swear, etc hahaha). We pretty much only have 91 here in Quebec apart from some very rare places that sell 94 so it would be 91 going in most of the time. Filling it up with 91 would come out to maybe a 90 end result with the mixed in 87 right? Would that be acceptable? I would then run 91 for a few tanks to lessen the effect of the original tank before connecting it to my PC and applying the map. Or (and maybe this is a stupid question but just wondering) by any chance would simply removing the actual module (box) and leaving all the wiring in place and connected work in order to run the 87 gas with the normal ECU mapping like if the RB was not installed at all? Without the module to bypass/overtake the bike's normal ECU, would it hinder in any way the normal operation of the bike? As for relevant mods I have a Leo Vince slip on with the normal headers, pair and flapper mod and a K&N filter, nothing too drastic. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply! I actually don't have the Youtune add-on (not yet at least...but it's tempting) and am using the OEM O2 sensors. I'm fairly certain everything is hooked up correctly but will give what you suggested a go. I have unfortunately not yet tested the system as winter is not quite done in the great white north. Riding does become legal once again as of March 16th (date at which vehicles are no longer required to have winter tires) but the streets are dirty as hell and filled with tiny rocks the city spreads during the winter for added traction. So it may be a few weeks before I can properly test it out. I couldn't resist going for a tiny conservative ride around the block yesterday after buttoning everything back up just to make sure everything worked, there were no FI lights, etc but that's it. I've always run 87 in the bike so I'll finish up this tank and then switch to premium. Man I can't wait to really let her rip! As for the original question, are those still the settings (engine braking, etc) you would recommend?

I hadn't seen that but yeah, it's there. Thanks!

Hey guys. So I bought the RB Racing unit in the original group buy and then life got in the way. During the summer I would always rather ride than tinker and during the winter my bike was always stored far away. But finally this winter I had a garage and some time so all the uninstalled mods were done. Yeah :) I know, shame on me for waiting this long as the install was super easy except reinstalling the damn o2 sensors (I had a PC3). Finally buying the proper tool for the job made that quite simple though. Sooo anyways. I have been reading all the threads concerning the module (thanks CandyRedRC46 by the way for all your input on it!) and thought it might be nice to summarize a little and confirm a few settings. I of course understand the autotune takes care of a lot of things and preferences vary but I want to maximize what the module gives me. I don't have the YouTune add-on by the way. Here is what I found as a good base after the initial 200km: - Use premium gas - Switch engine braking to ON and set it to 40% - Set the minimum RPM tuning to 3400 rpm - Set the maximum allowed % change to 5% Since some of you guys have been tinkering with the system, is this all still good? Oh and for the life of me I can't seem to find any sort of instructions on how to use the software. Does anything exist or is it more of a learn as you go type of deal? Thanks in advance!!

Perfect. Thanks for the feedback! As stated the bike runs fine it just seemed a little odd that a product specificly made for this bike would fit like this.

Hey all. Quick question about the K&N air filter I just installed on my 6th gen. The seal is not perfect all around and I just wanted the opinion of fellow 6th gen owners who have installed them. The K&N is properly inserted into the top of the airbox's groove. I have removed the seal from the groove after removing the OEM filter. I can get the areas near the screws pretty close to touching but in between them there still some play (1/8" at most). Bike runs fine by the way but just wanted to be sure. Thanks for the input.

Really nice. Please keep us posted as far as quality and ease of installation. I'm quite interested, I've always likednthe large wing look.