VFR750F3

I was too lazy to drill another hole also. Nevertheless I found some article that it is normal for the bracket to move. The VFR800 setup is fixed while the 1098 setup has slack built into it. If you go on the Extreme creation site their setup has slack built into it with no stopper. Seb do you think it is beneficial to use it? Thank you for the welcome.

Almost done been busy doing other things ie RRR. I did not install the additional item Seb sent me. It is used to keep the rear caliper from not moving a little front to back in the caliper hanger. The stock Ducati has movement built it to it also. I researched the forums regarding this and it is normal. Who uses the rear brakes anyway. I have not bleed the system yet and or replaced the rear master cylinder which I have. Also waiting for some black wheel and axle nuts and also a new master link. I had to cut two links off the chain so my wheelbase will probably be around 56.0". This should definitely help handling and also the swingarm is angled more ie which will increase ride height. I routed the rear brake line through the swingarm and used some grommets see pics. I also put some grease on the brake line so it can slide a bit and so the grommet can go in easily and not dry out which probably will not happens anyway. I will also be replacing the front with a OZ GASS RSA from a CBR600RR. I will need to buy some 296mm rotors 94 mm hub size 5mm thickness and 12.5mm dished to fit that wheel and shim the calipers inwards or go with 320mm rotors and go radial calipers or get a caliper bracket to use my 4 piston Nissins. I am not sure yet. The swingarm hub pin for the stand, swingarm rear hub adjuster spanner and axle nut tool were purchased on aliexpress. It took me a moment to figure out I had to remove links from the chain because I had too much slack. I had a senior moment.

I have been on a journey through many motorcycles there Captain. It get to a point you do it right the first time or you just end up doing it again that is zero stress. By the way your restored motorcycles look like you took no shortcuts. The cost of the gasket btw is another $25 bucks. I enjoy reading about modifications but something the road less traveled does not always make a difference..

I am still puzzled why you just did not purchase the correct parts needed which I offered to you. It seems like a lot of work.

I have spare triggers and motors 86 and 87.

Depends on the tire size. Google tire size calculator to see what the difference in height is. It is not going to make a difference. The answer is 0.1 inches 110 90 16 versus 110 80 17. The most important part of those 37mm forks is throwing on a fork brace 15wt w emulators if I recall correctly removing the anti dive and using a straight spring and not a progressive one. I threw on some modern rubber and better forks 45mm which dropped the front end quite a bit and made big difference from the stock front end. I would get some new dampers if you are serious about handling and adjustability with a wheel than is wider ie F2 3.5" for modern rubber or go with a 130 70 17 if you can find one that made for performance and not touring. I am surprised that Fox shock is not leaking because mine did from just sitting. Had it rebuilt by Daugherty. Also you are better at jacking up the rear end instead of dropping the front end for ground clearance.

Finally found the rear wheel and purchased it yesterday. It is a OZ GASS RS-A 5.5" 7LBS. A savings of 7 pounds. Thanks to SEBSPEED for the spacers and caliper relocation kit. For sale brand new triple tree 45mm CBR900RR, rear wheel 2002 VFR800 and rear hub with a and 45 T sprocket. I have various parts for 6th gen and 2nd gen VFR700 AND 750.

Are you going to weld up the rear caliper support bracket or replace the swingarm?

I have spare parts if you need anything.

Nice Job. Forgot to mention Caswell has a product called Seal Mask. You brush it on the outside of your gas tank as protective coating just in case you drip any coating on your paint job.

I upgraded to the 12 hole for my 2002. I used the 2006 knock off ones from Ebay. I reused the Orings. The Rapid Bike adjusted perfectly to them. I would think if you put them in a 5th gen and just change the injector connectors or buy the harness used for $24 bucks on Ebay easy peasy lemon squeezy. I tried the Blackbird FPR but the bike kept on flooding.

BTW those extra boxes on the ram air help dampen the noise I think I read somewhere.

https://www.facebook.com/Metalscorpiocom/ He did it with a f4 tank. I toyed with the idea with a F3 ram air just glass it in. I bought one never finished.

Why its just a simple resistor. You probably could. You have to compare the wiring diagrams and make sure all the pin outs and the connector to the ecu is identical.

For $28 buy 2 a supposed Honda one from Partzilla costs $138. Otherwise remove the fuel pump and do a gravity feed.

Most Jap parts are made in China.

Those fuel pumps lock up. If you do not hear it click its shot. Check to see if you have power and ground on the connector. You can also ohm it out check the service manual. You can get a new one on Aliexpress. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803160972650.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.46682838rbaDJT&algo_pvid=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce&algo_exp_id=dc6bec43-7bf3-4220-af64-7cc6735b73ce-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000025336843963"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!38.94!28.43!!!!!%40211be3cd16748621618824261d06d0!12000025336843963!sea&curPageLogUid=e2Qda3R7O3MD If you need any parts hit me up.

It should work because I put a 87 700 motor in a 86 frame ie no cam sensor. I had to compare the wiring harness that go into the cdi and modify one or two of the wires. I mite of swapped black boxes also its so long ago. Bike has 750 motor now with HRC cdi. The tach operates off the coil and spark unit for cylinders 1 & 3, yellow wire. I also put aftermarket gauges on one of my 86 VFR its a PITA but everything works.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804654216656.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.5d927470c98cJK&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id"%3A"12000030698218738"}&pdp_npi=2%40dis!USD!283.47!206.93!!!!!%402102169316711174240026191d076b!12000030698218738!sea&curPageLogUid=srzSNuD7EYSJ cheap replacement

Don't bother with factory header or the Delkevic get the Two Brothers VFRD header you will not be disappointed.

Delkevic I had them do not bother. Tuning maps are available for $50 For 6th gen I recommend Rapid Bike due to ignition timing. Really wakes up the bike.

Nice bits ie front and rear suspension. I can not wait till the finished product. Maybe shorty muffler no mid pipe though.

Positive experience matters. You can tell Sheldon to stick to physics. I do the same to my clutch. https://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?179153-zip-tie-your-clutch-lever-instead-of-frequent-bleeding https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/zip-tie-brake-lever-after-bleeding-11641/ Lets start over When you changed the clutch did you zip tie the clutch lever yes or no Is the clutch lever soft or hard does it feel like the brake lever both are 12.7mm masters yes or no If you did not zip tie you need to keep rebleeding it is a pain in the butt. I have been there many times when I upgraded to stainless steel lines. Do not let the reservoir go empty. Bleed the banjo nut also https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/246796-bleeding-brakes-from-banjo-bolts/ Did everything work correctly before you replaced the clutch plates?

I also bleed the banjo. Wrap a towel around the banjo nut on the master pump and loosen this will get that last bit of air out. Th zip tie method works. I do it every year on all my bikes.

I also bleed the banjo. Wrap a towel around the banjo nut on the master pump loosen retighten quickly it will squirt . this will get that last bit of air out.