Monk

Just wondering, how to get the plastic off ? Also agree with the 3 point system.

Looks nice....... Rolling the edge will not only make it fit, but seems to me it would strengthen the plate design. I've done some mod's on my plates, on of which is to paint the border of the plate black to make it look smaller. DSC00090.JPG 001

For anyone that might be interested.... I've been working on a minimal cost suspension upgrade, with the thought of being able to progress into a much more proper completed system in the future without having to replace the new parts as I build. (My stats are, wt. 255 lbs. ; six-gen VFR ; In-between kneedragging and NOT) I had my forks cleaned and assembled with "sonic" 1.0 non-progressive springs, And 5-wt fork oil. I start my test rides(usually 100 to 200 mile for each eval'). The 1st thing, I left my sag alone just to see how the spring felt, then did some sag adjustments, I increased the rear dampener 1/8 of a turn(and might back that off a mm). For my next run I lowered my front 3mm(only). So far I'm loving it. The changes are that it turns in with no effort under normal S's riding I find my comfort zone went up about 10 mph +. One other thing is, it turns well in the slow parking-lot maneuvers as well. For me, I'm glad I didn't lower the front any more than this(at least for the time being). I'm thinking about rebuilding my stock shock and changing the spring at another time after T-Mac's rally. For now it's fine.

Two ways to handle the drain plug....... #1 ; a drain pan with a catcher over the opening. .... #2 ; A magnet on a long arm to pull it out of the oil..........

John, number one I would NOT install 1.0 kg fork springs and not change the rear spring also or IMO the bike will be worse off. The rear is already too soft and installing 1.0's in the front will shift a LOT more weight to teh already too soft rear end. Outside that, looking at just the forks: installing 1.0 springs will slow compression & speed up rebound, so IMO you would want lower weight oil on the comp. stroke and higher on the rebound side to slow down the bounce back of teh 1.0's. On SAG IMO the only real way to know if the springs are right is to have correct FREE & Rider sag, not one or teh other. BR Thx BR, gotta go

Well I got no help and have to leave to get meds for my dad, so any answers come in now I won't be here........ Jamie I have my phone with me

I have my bike in the shop right now and they need to know some answers soon(asap). I'm having Sonics 1.0 put in the front Jamie said 5w with honda oil but they don't have that, and will be using maxama oil, and he said to put less oil in it. My local guru said 10w keep the oil ht stock ............. I'm 260 plus gear......... and stock rear suspension(so far)..... also my local wants to know if to use static or free sag adjustment....... Help Please. I call Jamie but no answer.........Voice recording

Awesome work. Some thoughts. If the belt doesnt have the correct number of teeth, then I would assume it would be slack....so why not just get a tensioner like the buell's? I appear to see tons of space above the swing arm where it could be located, if below is not an option. All the best Sounds like a good idea, but I think it should be placed on the bottom so the motor would pull the rear sprocket from a straight line, and let the tensioner work with the return(bottom train) ? Also won't one of these belt companies make a custom belt......R&D $$$ ????? It might motivate one of them if they thought there were a group of VFR owners that might want to mod their chains, to belts with a pully & belt kit. :idea3:

I'm not doubting you, just makes me wonder why if it doesn't seem to hurt rubber?