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Painting faring project


Guest Pillowsplat

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Guest Pillowsplat

400http://users.adelphia.net/~jolinski/Dec%2028%202004%20006.jpg[/img]

History

I have spray painted one car, One house, A grill, and Various little things. So I am a certified Weekend Warrior.

I found the Color Rite product on the web.

I don't have access to a spray gun and I did not want to buy one so I thought I would try the aresol Colorite stuff. The goal was to paint the front cowl and the left side. You can see what I started with. I got quotes of $550 from the local auto body guy to do it or $1000.00 + for new plastic.

The customer service at Color Rite was very good. I talked with Doug and he really helped me with some details.

What you see below is enough to complete ONE side panel if you have done ANY body filling. The base color does not cover Blue body filler after 2 coats. But I will explain later.

To start

I got my shipment of Color Rite stuff

Cleaner $15

Base $30

Pearl $30

Clear $10

Purchased locally

Evercoat Poly fill $15

3M 220 wet dry $4

3M 600 wet dry $4

I had to go out and buy 2 cans of aresol high Urethane Base match at the local paint store $11/can. So I can not hold Color Rite responsible for any incompatibility issues or color match. By the way it is a perfect match.

Here in lies the rub with Color Rite. They will not commit to ?how many sq. inches their product will cover. I understand it is tough to do over the phone but they need to figure it out for boneheads like me. Although Doug did say I should OK. But working with High Soild urethane is different.

I made a 8' X 10" spray booth in the basement.

I put a cloth tarp down on the floor and wet it down the night before spraying so it would attract the dust to the floor.

I already had a resporator. A must.

My wife & dog were out of the house. The smell lasted for 24 hours. Trust me that did not go over well.

Here are the goods

Dec%2028%202004%20006.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Here is the damage

Dec%2028%202004%20005.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Front Cowl sanded BTW you need to seperate all the plastic. I masked the existing Honda decal with blue tape. I started with the clear packing tape you don't see here

Dec%2028%202004%20009.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Side sanded hanging in the tent

Dec%2028%202004%20008.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Front side cowl. This is pretty technical spraying

Dec%2028%202004%20010.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Side cowl after the 1st can of base notice the blue coming through. Off to the local paint store for more base.

Dec%2028%202004%20018.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Front Cowl done

Dec%2028%202004%20022.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Front side cowl done

Dec%2028%202004%20023.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Side Done

Dec%2028%202004%20020.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Laid Out to dry No VFR decal

Dec%2028%202004%20030.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Ready to go

Dec%2028%202004%20035.jpg border='0' alt='user posted image' />

Closing comments

Dust control is critical. I still had little things stuck but they came off with a finger nail.

Your local paint store may be able to save you some money. And since this was about saving money....

This was the 1st time I ever clear coated anything. It really makes everything look fantastic.

If I paid someone to paint this I would have asked that it be repainted. I just could not get the blue completely covered.

At 3' it looks great any closer imperfection will be noticed on my work.

Does it look better yes sir! Is it done by a professional nope!

Remember it is a 10 year old VFR with 50,000 miles it is my 1st motorcycle. I did learn a bunch of stuff and I'm happy with the results.

John</font>

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  • Member Contributer

yep i hear ya on the dust.  i just repainted my main fairing at work, and we a quasi homemade paint booth, but it does have forced air.  i think it actually attracts dust and put it on what you are painting.  anyways, basecoat is CRITICAL.  the topcoat simply will not cover any colour differences, unless you put on 6-7 coats.  and wet/dry sandpaper is your best friend.  i actually used a coloured primer, no base and urethane clear.  looks amazing from ten feet!  but i found the colorite red a little off(i guess the colour changed a wee bit with the 6th gen).  but a good learning experience, for i have never done any finished painting like that.

am happy with it for now... maybe next spring(fall?) i will respray it.  am thinking corvette blue...

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Guest vfr03silver

Wow thanks for the write up. On the floor, with everything together I'd say it looks pretty damn good.

When I had a little tip over with my 02, I had the side faring repainted (supposedly by a professional that does boats, etc - lots of plastic stuff). The price was a 100 bucks, and the result never matched, it was too orangey.

And he told me he was gonna have to spray the whole thing but you could see by the difference in colors in different spots that he didn't.

After seeing whay you've done here I'd bet I would've been better off doing it myself. Thanks again, looks good for sure.

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I need to get my Corbin Suggler repaited to match my OEM red on my 97.  I don't have intrest in doing it myself cause I know I will mess it up or not be happy with my work.  I have been trying to find a place that can do a good job.  If anyone has one please post.  The red it is painted now is not a exact match and the paint does not look as good as the OEM...not that I expect perfect.
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Guest Pillowsplat

For:

1 can of Cleaner

3 cans of Base

1 can of Pearl

1 can of Clear

From Colorrite $159.70

From the Local paint store that supplies autobody shops

$63.50.

The local guy and I guessed that the base coat is pretty similar he nailed the color just using his reference chart of the

paint color 158P and the paint code 158E.

Colorite had a % fade factor per year but I don't think that should be passed on to be fair.

As I mentioned mixing the paints may be disaster in the long run. Also I have no idea of the comparitive paint qualities.

The sequence for painting from Colorite's instructions are clean > sand > spray > wait 20 min > spray> repeat

The thing they neglect is that you are spraying to achieve a color not just a specific number of coats.

They recomend:

2 base

2 pearl

2 clear

The colored primer sounds like the way to go. Next time.

I also have forced hot air. I plugged up the duct coming into the basement. My plastic curtin did not go all the way to floor. That was a mistake. I did not close off the top so stuff could get in. Not to mention the plastic was probably full of static. Maybe reducing the curtin size to refrigerator size with one of those 'Lost in Space' robot arms poking into the paint area.

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Unfortunately, a can of spray paint will never do the job of a good quality spray gun, but it is much more convenient. I am told that at least 50 feet of hose is required for a good quality job, and 150 feet of hose is recommended. This supposedly removes all moisture from the line to go with the water vapor separator. Others here can tell you more if you are interested, but it sounds like you are already finished, and the results are good.  ???
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I painted a tank, 2 small side covers and both fenders on an old bike years ago. Spray cans in the basement. Came out decent but not professional looking. Best viewed not too close. The bitch is in the prep work. Sanding, sanding, and more sanding.  :goof:
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For:

1 can of Cleaner

3 cans of Base

1 can of Pearl

1 can of Clear

From Colorrite $159.70

From the Local paint store that supplies autobody shops

$63.50.

The local guy and I guessed that the base coat is pretty similar he nailed the color just using his reference chart of the

paint color 158P and the paint code 158E.

I'm wondering if that code is also good for the 6th gen... Thanks for the writeup...

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Guest ZmZmOn2

I've had good experience with Color Rite.  I redid my first bike in Pearl Shining Yellow which oddly enough went on to be the color of my VFR.  Neat color but a PIA to work with if you have little to no experience in painting things.  The yellow involves 3 steps: base, pearl, clear.

If anyone has experience working with this color and helpful tips I'd love to have them for future reference!

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OSH #610 Dark Red is VERY close to VFR red, and way cheaper than all the color rite stuff for those on a budget. I just did a very similar job for about 10 bucks total. It ain't perfect, but either am I  :O
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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest vfrrocky
<font color='#000000'>OSH #610 Dark Red is VERY close to VFR red, and way cheaper than all the color rite stuff for those on a budget. I just did a very similar job for about 10 bucks total. It ain't perfect, but either am I ?:o</font>

What brand of paint is it that you're referring to, Lucien? Also, where did you purchase it from?

Thanks,

Troy

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Guest MichaelR

Stupid question time... if you have damage to just part of the plastic do you have to sand and repaint the whole piece of just the area that you damaged?

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  • 1 year later...
  • Member Contributer

I think this is a very good question. My bike was laid down and there is paint and light plastic damage. I'd prefer to just fill/sand/paint the damaged areas and not the whole side faring and tail... but as with cars it is probably very difficult to match two paint sections on one panel. Does anyone have experience/pictures with this?

Stupid question time... if you have damage to just part of the plastic do you have to sand and repaint the whole piece of just the area that you damaged?

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  • Member Contributer

Off topic - Boy you brought this one from the deep dark corner of the almost purged threads. Good read though, hadn't see it myself.

On topic - I'd paint the entire panel rather than trying to cover a portion of a panel. trying to blend the paint when it matches perfectly is difficult, much less when they don't match. When you paint a whole fairing, if it doesn't match the other panel, there is a crack there that helps hide the color mismatch.

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