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The purchase of a tank protector fell into one of my procrastination loops. One is finally in the mail now but that's after almost 5000 miles of the front of my jacket rubbing and pounding the crap out of the tank, dulling the finish there.

Any advice on the best way and best product(s) to get the finish back to its original depth and luster before I apply the new tank protector there?

Also, while I was cruising the aisles of Auto Zone... does anyone have experience with 3M Paint Defender? Could this be a decent alternative to tank protectors? Or a good way to augment the area around the protector? I was initially thinking of using it for the chin of the bike's fairings and maybe the parts of the panniers I keep leaving boot marks on.

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I have this random orbit buffer that works well.

http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424-Variable-Random-Orbit-Polisher/dp/B00004SUQ8

I also use Meguiar's Professional line:

http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional

For the paint protector, I used TankSlapper. They didn't have the VFR800F when I tried to buy, but when I contacted them, I found they were only a few miles from me. They used my bike to measure the kit they sale on line.

https://thetankslapper.biz/oc/index.php?route=product/product&path=59_68&product_id=601

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Thanks but do you have any tips for the Meguiar's stuff? There's a whole shelf full of different products. Where do I start? For the price of one of each of what's on that shelf I'm halfway to a new tank... ;)

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I am not a professional detailer, so please do your own research. That said, when I painted my previous bike, I used 2000 grit sand paper to smooth the clear coat. This process leaves a smooth but somewhat hazy finish. To really get it to pop, I used the Meguiar's Ultra Cut followed by the Mirror Glaze Finishing Compound. Depending on how bad the tank is scuffed, you might be able to just use the Swirl Remover. In fact, if you aren't comfortable with this process, I would recommend not using something that will cut too fast at all. The nice thing about the Meguiar's professional products is that they indicate right on the front how aggressive they will cut the paint/clear. The swirl remover will eventually get you there, but it will take a lot longer.

Unless you have done this before, DO NOT use a high speed buffer. They spin too fast for the untrained (me) and it is likely to burn right through the paint. Random dual action orbit with a foam pad is slower, but will do the job, and you don't have to fear burning through the paint as easily. Keep in mind, if you just hold even a random orbit in one place on its highest setting, it will eventually eat through the clear into the paint.

This is what I have used on several cars and a DIY paint job that came out very nice. Go slow. There is no need to rush, and if you go too fast with the wrong products or tools, you can ruin the paint.

Also, you can call Mequair's tech line, and they can help you select the product that will work best for you.

Good luck!

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Okay. Buy a clay bar and Speed Shine from Griot's garage. Purchase the orbital buffer and the Machine Polish 1, 2, 3, and 4 kit. My 10 year old orbital quit and Griot's replaced it with a new one last week. I only had to pay for shipping to them.

Spray the Speed Shine and clay the painted surfaces. Start with Machine Polish three. Follow the buffing pattern contained with the instructions. If 3 doesn't take out the scuffs and such, use Machine Polish two. Repeat. If that doesn't remove the scratches, use Machine Polish 1. Finish it up with Machine Polish 4. Wax it. Enjoy the jaws dropping as you show off your paint that looks like you could dive into it.

Too, buy the microfiber towels from Griot's. If you purchase the kind from, like, Autozone, be careful with the thread on the edges of the towel. They can scratch. Too, cut off the labels.

You've got to stay on it, after that. A couple of times a year is good. For $250, you can be very happy.

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prcera.jpg

Cleans, brightens, polishes and protects all finishes, leaving an outstanding high gloss that lasts. Removes road film, light oxidation, unsightly grooves, marks and light scratches.

I like this stuff .

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