Member Contributer V4Ever Posted November 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 12, 2014 I may be going to look at a 5th gen for purchase this weekend. Just wanted to ask if there is anything unique to this gen I should look for. I'm not new to motorcycles, and perform my own maintenance. Does this gen have the regulator/stator issues like the 4th gen? Any problems with bodywork cracking? I want to be an informed buyer when I go to look. If it looks as good as the pics, it should fit well beside the 84 VFKF. Thanks in advance. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted November 12, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 12, 2014 Every one of my first four 5th gens needed steering head bearings, a couple at less than 30,000 mi. The way to check is to put the machine on it's centerstand, have someone lean on the rear end to elevate the front wheel. Then move the forks back and forth lock-to-lock. If there is an inconsistancy in the middle, either a notch/detent or less resistance to movement, new head bearings are called for. The recommended replacement is All Balls tapered roller bearings. The symptoms while moving will be head shake or vibrations hands off while decelerating. Those symptoms are similar to a cupped front tire, which may be visible to a trained eye. Some have said that head shake while decelerating is common on all motorcycles so keep that in mind. Good luck and post up if you score. And welcome to the asylum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer deltaboxii Posted November 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 13, 2014 I have two 5th gens and the bodywork is pretty solid overall. The front turn signals usually take the brunt of the drop. And there is a plastic tab underneath the headlight (black square) that if it is missing, means that most likely at some point the bike fell over. Yes the 5th gen bikes, and even several years of the 6th gen bikes, are prone to electrical issues-mainly regulator / rectifier. The symptoms and fixes are well documented on this site. But what I will specifically mention is that one of the first items that you should buy if the bike does not already have one installed is called a "VFR ness". If you search that you will find all the information that you ever will need to know. If the battery is old or weak, I would also suggest replacing that right away. Weak batteries only exacerbate the electrical problems on 5th gens. Install a voltmeter on the dash when you have a chance as well. It will warn you of trouble before it hits. Stators are usually not a problem, same with the CDI boxes. Usually it is the battery, wiring harness or regulator / rectifier that goes and leaves you stranded. Some guys carry a spare reg/ rectifier just in case if they are on a long trip. Not bad insurance really. I would look at the overall condition of the bike to tell you its history. New tires? Fresh oil changed regularly? Bodywork in pretty good shape? Rotors not all scored up? Chain not dragging on the ground? If yes to all of those then the previous owner was probably the type of person that took care of their motorcycles and the VFR that you are looking at should be fine. The motors themselves are pretty bullet proof and there are plenty of members on this site with over 100k miles on theirs. this is pretty much the advice that I took away from this great group of VFR experts when I was in your shoes a few years back. Good luck and enjoy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
checksix Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 When you go to see the bike, bring along a voltmeter and have the owner pull off the seat so you can access the battery. It should read about 12.5 - 12.9 volts when sitting, key off, and somewhere in the 14 - 15 volt range with the engine running. After your test ride, park the bike but leave the engine running and watch the temperature gauge. It should climb to about 220 degrees and then the fan should turn on and drop the temperature down to about 210 before turning back off. Also bring a flashlight and have a look inside the tank. It should be nice and shiny with no sign of rust. Check the fork seals for leaks. Look for missing bodywork fasteners and missing rubber caps on the brake bleed nipples. It will give you an idea of how meticulous the owner was (or was not). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 13, 2014 I bought a 1999 5th gen this year with 76000km on it. No issues found so far except a thermostat that had failed in the open position which made the bike slow to warm up and run too low on cool days; the t/stat is a bit of a beast to access to change, and seems to be a common failing. Only body damage on mine are some cracks in the front guard. The gearbox on my bike was a bit sloppy and was greatly improved with a FactoryPro shift star kit. There's a few funny stories around about mice building nests in VFR airboxes when they are winter stored (the bikes not the mice) which does nothing for the airflow. 2000-onwards 5th gens have a wax unit to control fast idle and O2 sensors, pre 2000 they have a fast idle lever and no O2 sensors; a few posters have commented on having to replace the wax units. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V4Ever Posted November 13, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks for the pointers. Yes I am familiar with steering bearings. Replaced them a few years ago on the V65 Sabre. Had a definite notch with the wheel straight. Been a lurker on the list for a while so I have seen many references to the vfrness, sounds like cheap insurance. I hadn't thought of checking voltage with a meter, good idea. My HF meter may not be the most accurate, but it will show if there is more volts as engine revs. Bike does show some minor rash on the clutch cover and fairing, I'll have to look close at the rest. I'm getting anxious to go look, and get it home. Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MaxSwell Posted November 13, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 13, 2014 If you need to buy fairings or other OEM parts, the go-to person is Keith at Mason City (IA) Honda. If you call him and identify yourself as a VFRD member, he'll give you a discount. The last I heard was cost plus 10%. (When I told my local dealer about that, he started giving me the same deal.) And don't forget about a SebSpeed Clear Cluch Cover for that rashed one if you buy it. And checking for rodent abodes in the air box is a great piece of advice. One was found in my last 11,000 mile VFR purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V4Ever Posted November 18, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted November 18, 2014 Thanks for all the pointers. The VFR followed me home. Overall, looks pretty good from five feet away. Right side lower fainting an clutch have some rash. Might just live with that for now. Regulator was replaced 14 months ago. Voltage was 12.7 motor off, 14.5 at approximately 2500 rpm. Steering felt heavy during test ride. Tire pressure showed. 34 front, 38 rear. I raised it to 38 & 40. Better, but still seemed like more effort than I am used to. Maybe it just takes getting used to. I was not able to check steering bearings as there is no center stand. How do you lube the chain without one? Tires are Shinko, approx 3000 miles on them. I'll be asking more stir questions later. I know, without pictures it doesn't exist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Terry Posted November 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 18, 2014 Congratulations on your purchase, she looks great. Your voltage readings look good, a bit higher than I see (12.2v motor off, 13.8 running) but that could be down to different meters. I'd be looking for a centrestand ASAP, otherwise you'll need to get a race stand. I'd bet that you'll be able to get a centrestand through a salvage yard without too much drama as they aren't the sort of thing that gets trashed in a crash. You can probably put a block of wood under the sidestand (to get the bike near vertical) and a jack under the right side foot peg and lift the back of the bike for maintenance. It's been a looooong time since I rode on a 16" front wheel so I never find my VFR slow steering, but you can adjust the steering geometry a bit to speed things up by increasing pre-load on the back and slipping the fork tubes up through the triple clamps to lower the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer deltaboxii Posted November 18, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted November 18, 2014 Congrats, looks great next to your '84. Sure looks to be in good shape from the pics. The Shinkos are great for mileage. I can't see what model Shinkos they are to look at the profile. If you are looking for something with quicker turn in and sportier handling, I would suggest when you wear those out, try the Michelin Power 3 or Pirelli Angel GT. Looking for high mileage and still great handling? Get some MIchelin Pilot Road 3 or 4s. Both are a good combination of tire life and grip. and +1 like Terry said for raising the fork tubes up SLIGHTLY to lower the front. I haven't ridden an '84 but I am guessing that the stock 16 inch front wheel turns pretty quickly, and once you get used to the VFR it should be fine. The VFR's stock suspension is pretty decent for most normal riding. If you really want to enjoy it and ride the VFR the way it was meant to be ridden, it's just a CBR 929 shock and fork revalve away from nirvana. Check out Jamie Daughtery's work, he has done a ton of VFR suspension for members here. So far he has done my '01, my '07 and Hawk. I can't say enough good things about him. Awesome work, quick turnaround, and super fair on pricing for VFRD members. Right now I am wishing I was in Florida to enjoy my VFR like you can! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimGregory Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Steering shouldnt feel heavy but maybe it's relative. Tire profiles and sizes make a big difference. Keep them pumped up. To me the front tire looks large possibly. That will slow it down. Nice find! you should enjoy it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30Bones Posted November 22, 2014 Share Posted November 22, 2014 Budget a R/R, harness and possibly a stator rewind. Battery if it tests weak. IMO the bikes rock solid other than that. I'm on my 3rd and all of those parts were replaced in the 30k mark. My 94 was the exception, the RR went out at 8k but it was already 13 years old. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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