bayarearider Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 So I haven't read much about this topic here but I had my 40k mi Vtec called out in need of the rear CC adjuster today at my local service shop. I always ride with foam ear plugs and only noticed a tick when I was idleing thinking it was valve adjust time. Not really looking forward to throwing down $8 Hundy+ in the next 20k mi or so went the time comes and learning that the smaller independent shops around here don't want to deal with Vtec valves leaving it to full price dealership shops. (As for DIYS, I can see myself dropping some metallic something into the engine case. Game over!) Right now I'm looking at $250 parts and labor for the rear adjuster and curious if the front adjuster will soon follow. What's your experience with these CC adjusters Sixth Gen'ers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 24, 2014 Share Posted May 24, 2014 The front is a lot more apt to make noise than the rear, so Id make sure it is the rear. The rear is easier than the front to replace. without a automotive strethocope its hard to tell which cylinder bank the noise is coming from even when its making noise. the rear tensioner is no harder than changing the oil and filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 24, 2014 Author Share Posted May 24, 2014 Think you may be right Spud, all the way from Texas! The appt. isn't for another week so I have time to investigate further. A dealership tactic to replace the easy one first only to inform me later the more costly one needs replacing as well? perhaps. I rigged up GF's hospital issure Stethescope and a screwdriver and got a louder tic from the front bank. If I can have my local tech confirm or play nurse maid and supervise my efforts so be it. Or I'll have the DShip tech scope it before I leave it. Thanks for the tip! Any particular reason the front bank adjuster would go first? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 I had a nice big Historical write up, but it got eaten. The fronts are more noise troublesome for lack of oil flow, the rear can eventually have issue too, but its much less troublesome in general and a much longer noise free life. Ive been through 3 front tensioners and a variety of tests to locate the issue. The conclusion, Basically its the internals of the tensioner that rattle, not that the chain is loose. Keep in mind you can replace a brand new tensioner and shortly afterwards or right off the bat its noisy. So,My latest technique has been increasing the oil port through the gasket from .5mm to 2.75mm to increase oil flow. I didn't try this on my last noisy tensioner, cause it had grey metal spooge running out of it and 70,000 miles on it. But on a new tensioner I'd do the mod, Ive seen no detriment other than increased oil flow and a noise free tensioner thus far. Or you can install a manual tensioner, but a little more trouble with set up and adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 25, 2014 Author Share Posted May 25, 2014 To be clear, you just increased the size/dia. of the stamped passage hole in the gasket only? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Yes the gasket is the smallest hole of the entire oil channel by a large margin, even at 2.75 mm hole(mod), its still less than half the oil channel size. You could go up to 5mm, but I don't know the effects of that, could be too much of a good thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Any tips as to access to the front bank other than removal of side fairings, overflow rad water. I assume I'd be going in from the throttle side and not top? Is the front as easy to change out as the rear other than access? I haven't chkd my Haynes ser book myself yet as I won't be able to get to it before the 1st of June. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer NorthernVFRDave Posted May 26, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 26, 2014 I just did both of mine, the rear was fine.. The top one was the issue.. The rear is very easy to get at, and it also only extens very little, so that might explain why it never seems to be an issue. The top one, seems to be extended almost fully, which most likely explains why it goes first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I think the book requires air box and throttle bodies removed for the front, Many have been able to do it with just the airbox removed. Im the only one I know who's done it without either removed, but that requires technique, dental floss and magnets. So Id recommend removing the airbox, the right side panel , pivot and raise the tank up, and disconnect some wring in the area for room. Its way down there in a deep dark hole. and is fairly troublesome. You go in from the top on the right side of the frame under the tank. Btw the gasket is coated metal, you don't need a new one, unless you really want one. Or unless you mess up the enlargement hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 The top one, seems to be extended almost fully, which most likely explains why it goes first. Generally the turn out from full compressed is 1.25 to 1.50 turns on the front. which is no where near full extension. However, people install brand new fronts and shortly afterwards they have noise again, the rear is less issue cause it stays flooded with oil. Hopefully your front tensioner avoids the common reoccurrence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 There's a thread around here somewhere in which Bailey explains how to swap out the front one with minimum fuss. You don't have to drain coolant nor remove throttle bodies. Just lift gas tank and remove air box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Well I'd certainly like to hear from Bailey or link patched on this subject cuz I was installing some new H grips today and flushed the air airfilter and not seeing any clear route to the front bank adjuster other than... Yes the manuel recommends removal of the throttle bodies and I'd like to avoid that. Unfortunely, the search feature here with keywords um, sux. I was just getting into a nice 3 day a week routine of commuting on the bike taking the longer ways home so feeling a bit caged until I resolve this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer HiDesertMLB Posted May 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 27, 2014 ... or link patched on this subject ... I believe this is the link for CCT replacement w/o TB removal: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/76-cam-chain-tensioner-without-throttle-body-removal/ BR did mention on page #3 of the thread he did remove CCT tensioner w/o taking out coolant hoses, but it was harder. IMO, Tightwad did a great write up on replacement, and when I wind up replacing mine, I'll be following these instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted May 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 27, 2014 Caution!! Be careful when removing or installing that you don't knock the metal cap off and into the hidden depths of the engine!! Here's another HOW TO W/PICS (No need to drain coolant or remove TB's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Ah, now we're getting somewhere! Thanks HiDesertMLB and dutchinterceptor for posting those links. Between them I should be able to work up the nut to jump into this once the parts arrive. Onward to Boston for a quick trip... "Metal Cap"? You mean that knob on the inside end of the rod just floats there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer dutchinterceptor Posted May 27, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted May 27, 2014 Ah, now we're getting somewhere! Thanks HiDesertMLB and dutchinterceptor for posting those links. Between them I should be able to work up the nut to jump into this once the parts arrive. Onward to Boston for a quick trip... "Metal Cap"? You mean that knob on the inside end of the rod just floats there? It's just held in place by tension against the rubber bushing thingy. They shouldn't come off easily but it has happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 So easy does it on the extraction, check. Sounds like locking the rod in place with that key thingy ( to be made) will help with that part of the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spud786 Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 New tensioner will come with a key . you don't necessarily have to use the key on removal, but will definitely need on install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted June 8, 2014 Author Share Posted June 8, 2014 The CCT swap write up by Tightwad was excellent! But I don't see a torque setting for the 8mm bolts and end cap bolt in the write or Hanes manual. Anyone? Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bayarearider Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Torque settings determined to be snug+. (no documentation listing different) (pics) Old and new tensioner. I didn't want to risk bending the new stamped metal seal so left the oil lubing passage (pin hole) alone. I did however prime the tensioner innards with motor oil (using a syringe) prior to installing the end cap. Buttoned it up, Started it up (No error lights!) Back to quiet running gear. Lessons learned. (Purchase the parts online if you can) (Don't ever assume the rear tensioner will rattle before the front) The front can be oil starved. Use the stealorships as a last resort. (They wanted to replace the rear first) Great opportunity to spray clean/wipe gunk and oil build up in the airbox, throttle bodies etc... Thanks for the replies and tips guys!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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