baraka Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Okay, fess up, who did this? I am in the process of tearing apart the front wiring harness of my '02 VTEC/ABS, because my ignition circuit (with the engine relay and fuel cutoff switch) was working poorly, and I discovered this. If you can explain the thought process behind this, I will buy you a box of Girl Scout Cookies. The entire front end of the wiring harness is grounding through one 14g green and black ground wire coming out of the instrument cluster which has, predictably, given up the ghost and is reading 110 ohms of resistance to the ground. I think the connector is the connector for the regulator/rectifier. But it's clearly no longer on the R/R. The green loops connect to themselves to form independent loops. The Red/White wires are connected to each other to form one long loop, also connected to themselves, forming separate loops, with a little red/white wire tied in to one, and a white/black wire tied in that leads to the connector, but doesn't actually connect to anything.The little red/white wire is connected via an independent 20A fuse by the right side access panel to a black/yellow wire, which leads to one of the headlight relays, but I can't get any power to flow for it. The real question is, is it a loop to nowhere, and can I cut it out? Especially the green. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 The green grounds connected willy nilly are one of my least favourite things about the VFR electrical system. Connect them solidly together by soldering, and also to a new large gauge wire, and route that to the frame somewhere that affords an excellent grounding point. I had to do this to my 5th gen common grounding block, as well as grounding each of the 3 individual earth wires coming out of the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 That is bizarre...factory wiring or did someone do some customization? It appears to be you could just remove it all and connect the grounds together....and have the same situation without the connector. Is it possible someone grafted in the recall without removing the other wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baraka Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Well here is the crazy thing. I snipped it all out except for the small red and white wire, which I snipped where it joined in with the other red/whites. I wired a new, 8 gauge ground wire from the frame to the front wiring harness and commoned it with all the grounds. It's a good thing I saved most of that little red/white wire, because that is the power feed for the high beams. It runs to a small 20A feed, and from there to a black/red or black/yellow wire to the high beam relay. I have no idea how the high beams were powered before I took this whole thing apart, as I cannot find any other wiring that was wired into that loop. I can only chalk it up to witchcraft. The recall is on the books as having been done. But the wiring harness is kind of bizarre, and the vfrness doesn't fit the R/R connector. The three yellow wires are connected using a three pin connector. I looked at the recall wiring schematic, and it has a red/white tied into the main red/white in between the 20A master fuse and the regulator/rectifier. So I found a convenient spot on the wiring harness side of the regulator/rectifier plug and button hooked the red/white power feed to the high beams into one of the large gauge red/white wires and crossed my fingers and called it a day, under the theory that both red/whites attached to the R/R are commoned on the schematic, and I am mimicking the recall wiring harness schematic, and there is a twenty amp fuse on both sides of the connection. Nothing has lit itself on fire yet...My only concern is that I am somehow altering the delicate RR/Stator balance and will begin over/undercharging the battery. I will run some voltmeter tests shortly. The other problem I have is, the connector with three yellow wires looks to be an aftermarket three pin, and won't mate up properly with the VFRNess, so I haven't decided how to proceed there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted September 19, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 19, 2013 I wish you lived in my neighborhood...I am impressed with your skill in running all that stuff to ground (no pun intended), and simplifying it. When I was a young man, I was told that I was intelligent, but this stuff just boggles my mind... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baraka Posted September 19, 2013 Author Share Posted September 19, 2013 Well, I was homeschooled in a family of electrical engineers, so dinner table conversations often involved actual usage of voltmeters...I definitely called up dad a few times during this little project. He spends his spare time fixing household appliances and stubbornly refusing to let anybody else fix his cars. Good resource to have, because this stuff gives me headaches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightwad Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 The VFRness doesn't connect to the Stator, so if you have a VFRness you won't have a stator connection. Your Stator connection appears to be OEM...3 .312 pins in parallel. Your fix should be pretty good, just check that the grounds are done well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.