Guest thekelzer Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 A new bike for me...going through restoring the beast from head to toe. Though she is SPOTLESS and only 7000miles, she's been sitting many, many, many moons. I put in a fresh battery and checked running voltage. 13.5 at idle...12.6 from about 2000rpm on up to 6K (I didn't rev her past that).. HUH? Since when did voltage drop when RPM's go up? Any ideas?? Mahalo from Hawaii, thekelzer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Switchblade Posted April 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2013 WELCOME and it started right up after sitting for a while. Looks good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted April 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2013 beautiful bike! In my experience when voltage drops when rpms go up, first thought would be a bad stator....if it was the opposite I would look at the r/r there are many threads on testing....or here is a link to download a manual http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/files/file/156-vfr-86-service-workshop-manual-in-eng-deu-fra-esp/ Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Well, it started right up after fiddling with it for a few hours. MUCH less hassle than I would have expected after sitting for 3+ years. I downloaded the manual (A life saver, thank you!!) and went though the testing procedures list (very brief tests) and it checked out ok. I'd like to know how to check the AC voltage coming from the stator. I know it's the 3 yellow wires, but what to I connect the other end of the voltage meter to? Ground? or another yellow? or ?? help... I just did a compression check, changed the plugs and sync'd the carbs. Next up is cooling system and electrical. Thanks, Kelly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Call the three wires A,B, and C. check between A and B, then B and C, then A and C. Voltage should be according to spec. Then check for shorting to ground on all three wires ( ie .A to GND, then B to GND, then C to GND) Should be NO conductance to GND on any of the wi. In a perfect world, you should do these tests at operating temp GL, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 6, 2013 Share Posted April 6, 2013 Got good A/C volts! re-testing R/R ....ok the diodes in the R/R test out just fine. So, on paper at least the Stator and R/R TEST ok...but I'm still losing voltage above idle. KK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 2thdr Posted April 6, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 6, 2013 Start pulling connectors apart looking for shorts/corrosion. P.S. Like your helmet too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Would it make sense to anyone that the PO added a ground strap to one of the green wires coming out of the R/R connector? I disconnected it with no change in battery voltage...but what;'s the concept here. He did a VERY nice job splicing into the connector and then attaching the ground wire to the frame. But what's his concept here? Thanks, KK P.S. Like your helmet too... Bike came with 2 of them...brand new! I'm pulling connectors and all is good.... Mahalo, KK "Brand new" meaning unused from 1986 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer gll429 Posted April 7, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted April 7, 2013 PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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