Guest pmdmn Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hiho - New to the forum and a 1996 VFR. Failed to drain the float bowls last Fall and now have clogged pilot jets. I'm trying to remove the carbs to remedy the problem and have scoured the forums. What wisdom I can find suggests using a prybar or prybars (in tandem) on the rear carbs. I've loosened the clamps and applied WD40 to the "isolators." I can't however, locate any very plausible pry or leverage points. Advice is requested and welcome. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer trjerm Posted April 8, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 8, 2012 I'd try on the carb throats just above the clamps, but be careful not to bend the choke bar etc. get them to come up slightly, then respray and push back down. then try to work off, after you get rears free you may have to pry slightly to get fronts to break free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rangemaster Posted April 9, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 9, 2012 This is what I do: Loosen up the upper clamps on the rubber boots that the carbs go into. Spray a bit of WD40 on the carb throats so it'll run down on the rubber boot and let it soak an hour or so. Put a piece of 3/8 to 1/2 wood on the edge of the valve cover and a thin piece of hard plastic under those round metal covers that are in your pic. Those are the needle diaphragm covers and are some pretty thick steel stampings. Use one of the short pry bars you can get from Sears or Harbor Freight (looks like a giant screwdriver with an upturned end) and using the wood resting on the valve cover as the fulcrum, gently pry up under the diaphragm cover, working back and forth between the two carbs. Once you get the back ones out the fronts can be lifted strait up out of the rubbers. Use silicone (plumbers) grease on the boots to get the carbs back on. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
squirrelman Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 Pry points are between tops of carbs and valve covers on my '86 700, but if your carb tops are plastic, not the best plan. Loosen BOTH clamps on the mounting boots. If EITHER end comes off, it's helpful. Work on rear first, then front is easy. Start rocking the assembly a bit before trying to pop it out. BUT WAIT !!! I see you removed the bottom of the airbox, something that helps hold carbs together, not necessary or advisable. Complications usually follow. Disregard the above. *********************** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 Thanks for the replies guys. I'm going to to try to imitate Rangemaster's procedure this weekend. Note: The air cleaner base is still there though it's not conspicuous in the photo. The '86 pictured doesn't have the choke bar in the same location. Access for prying looks straightforward on that model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer jeremy77 Posted April 11, 2012 Member Contributer Share Posted April 11, 2012 Jamie has a great how to right here: http://daughertymotorsports.com/howto/Carbs/carbs.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 13, 2012 Share Posted April 13, 2012 I will now endorse Rangemaster's procedure, it worked very nicely for me. Hoping the rest of the process goes as well. Thanks for all the replies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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