Jump to content

huntinggunns

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

I am wiring up a relay so I can install my volt meter and powerlet. I am not using a fuse box like some use, just going from the reIay to the accessories. I know that there should be a fuse between the relay and the volt meter for that circuit and another for the powerlet circuit. From all the schematics that I have looked at it seems that power for the relay is straight from the battery to the relay. Is there no fuse between the battery and the relay?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Assuming you are using a 12VDC automotive relay, you will not need a fuse from the battery to relay inline with the coil. This is because the typical coil resistance is ~90Ohms which would mean at 12V you would be pulling only 133mA. You will however, need a fuse across the switched contacts, where the high currents are being passed. Hopefully this helps!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

this is what you could do..

VFR800   VOLT Meter

but this is what i have done...(i have added a few more accessories but you will get the idea)

VFR800 Aux Fuse Box.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks for the replies. I knew that there was a fuse between the relay and the accessory. Just couldn't remember if there was a fuse between the battery and main power to the relay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Thanks for the replies. I knew that there was a fuse between the relay and the accessory. Just couldn't remember if there was a fuse between the battery and main power to the relay.

good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best practice is to have a fuse before a wire goes anywhere it could short to ground...this includes inside a relay. My fuse panels use a fuse on the 30 pin.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best practice is to have a fuse before a wire goes anywhere it could short to ground...this includes inside a relay. My fuse panels use a fuse on the 30 pin.

This is what I did as well, an inline fuse between the battery and the relay. If you are only running 1 or 2 things off the relay, you don't necessarily have to have each of those fused too since the one going to the relay would catch a short. If you run a number of different things off that lead, it is best to use a fuse box and fuse the individual lines too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Best practice is to have a fuse before a wire goes anywhere it could short to ground...this includes inside a relay. My fuse panels use a fuse on the 30 pin.

This is what I did as well, an inline fuse between the battery and the relay. If you are only running 1 or 2 things off the relay, you don't necessarily have to have each of those fused too since the one going to the relay would catch a short. If you run a number of different things off that lead, it is best to use a fuse box and fuse the individual lines too.

This is especially true if you are running something low powered with something high powered...like a radar detector with heated gear. The fuse needed for the heated gear is relatively high compared to the radar detector and you could easily destroy the radar detector without blowing the fuse. In this case run a fuse panel or at least fuse each accessory.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer

Best practice is to have a fuse before a wire goes anywhere it could short to ground...this includes inside a relay. My fuse panels use a fuse on the 30 pin.

This is what I did as well, an inline fuse between the battery and the relay. If you are only running 1 or 2 things off the relay, you don't necessarily have to have each of those fused too since the one going to the relay would catch a short. If you run a number of different things off that lead, it is best to use a fuse box and fuse the individual lines too.

This is especially true if you are running something low powered with something high powered...like a radar detector with heated gear. The fuse needed for the heated gear is relatively high compared to the radar detector and you could easily destroy the radar detector without blowing the fuse. In this case run a fuse panel or at least fuse each accessory.

Thanks Josh. I had forgot that until I pulled out my eletrical repair for dummies book yesterday. Anyway, I am finally working on my 98 that I ordered all the parts from you for. This is the relayed circuit for the volt meter and powerlet. I got it all finished but will have to install a fuse on the up side of the relay this afternoon between the battery and relay. The RR is installed and hard wired in and the VFRness is installed. I did cut the connectors on the VFRness and hard wired that in as well. Also installed a new battery and performed the orange ground block modification/repair. All thats left now is to install the stator and she should be ready to go. At least with electrical problems. Still need to put on the tires and a take care of a couple of small maintenance items.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.