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Pilot Power vs PR2 - not sure it's worth it anymore *updated 10/11/2011*


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Let me start by saying, sorry for making another tire thread.

The reason I'm starting this thread, is to share my mileage experience with PP vs PR2 tires. I have now used up my 3rd combined set of PP front-PR2 rear. After getting much less miles from the first set than I expected, I started writing my mileage at time of tire swap on the inside of the wheel, and/or on the sidewall for reference. Data was skewed on the first set, as I found that the Michelins required more frequent air pressure checks than the Diablos I was running previously. I ended up running those closer to track pressures most of the time, leading to faster tire wear.

The last 2 sets I have checked pressure almost religiously before every ride, or every couple days.

I installed set #2 at 26,500 miles and am now wearing the rear of set #3 almost bald at 32,300mi. That's an average of 2900mi/set. I was getting around 24-2700 with Pirelli Diablo and Pilot Power sport tires. Cost per mile comes out roughly the same - 12 cents per mile for the PP/PR2 combo($242/pr), 12.5 cents per mile for the sport tires($200/pr).

Pretty much all my riding is back roads, I do commute but only a small portion of that is straight highway.

I think the deciding factor that would sway me back to sport tires is the profile difference of the PP & PR2 combo. When the tires are new, it takes me about 50-75 miles to scrub them in to where they work nicely together - the rear feels slow to turn in when brand new - as expected, since the rear has more of a round profile vs the more pointed PP. More annoying though, is the mismatch at the end of the tread life. Easily noticed increase in effort at the bar to change direction.

Anyway, just wanted to throw that out there. As always, everyone's mileage may vary... I will update with some pics of my toasted tires later today. Front is in the wear bars across the entire profile with the exception of the last 1/2" or so o neither side, rear is in the wear bars everywhere, tearing up on the sides, almost bald on the left and close to it on the right... It's kinda cool but it sure is getting expensive. :comp13:

When the Road 2 rear, is within the last 20% of life, it does get to where it will feel like training wheels, and I run high pressures, its probably far worse underinflated..

Not my favorite tire, but you cant beat it for life in my experience nothing Ive run will beat it , that still offers great level of traction, and if on a budget , a good deal.

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When the Road 2 rear, is within the last 20% of life, it does get to where it will feel like training wheels, and I run high pressures, its probably far worse underinflated..

Sorry, what?

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PP's are freak'n awesome: wet and dry. I know, I've been running them for years on much heavier and MUCH more powerful bikes. I had a trip planned to PA for a National rally in July (BMWNA) and mounted a PR3 on the rear and PP front, knowing I would be forced to do slabbin'. Let me tell you, that PR3 rear has nearly 5200 miles on it now (maybe I'll get the rest of our short season out of it), and they have not been easy ones. 175 HP usually leaves my tires short, but all-in-all, the PR3 wet or dry, is an impressive sneaker. I usually get 3k out of my PP rear, and this 3 is as sticky and will get you across the slab when you need to get there, although a bit more expensive. 190/55 I will be changing front and rear at the same time as planned, and will get the PR3 again for sure.

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When the Road 2 rear, is within the last 20% of life, it does get to where it will feel like training wheels, and I run high pressures, its probably far worse underinflated..

Sorry, what?

The road 2 has very stiff sidewalls, and a floaty center. once down to the wear your at, that floaty center is so thin it will colasp inward, which begins to give a vague feel, like on training wheels. But that tire still has more life, atlast till the wear bar is flush, another 500 to 1000 mile IMO, and I run them all the time.

As far as wear, I find colder temps, are harder on tires cause more micro slippage, whetehr you feel it or not, non absorbing suspension can also aide with additional micro slippage,(wearing the tire).Lack of Smoothness of the rider can add wear, if they are just hammering the throttle to destroy the tire, Underinflation ect will add wear, speed of accel and decel and tightness of the road , inlcuding elevational changes, courseness of the roads. Not saying your case, but some things to look at or consider, if looking to improve life, cause your running about the best life industry has to offer.

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PP's are freak'n awesome: wet and dry. I know, I've been running them for years on much heavier and MUCH more powerful bikes. I had a trip planned to PA for a National rally in July (BMWNA) and mounted a PR3 on the rear and PP front, knowing I would be forced to do slabbin'. Let me tell you, that PR3 rear has nearly 5200 miles on it now (maybe I'll get the rest of our short season out of it), and they have not been easy ones. 175 HP usually leaves my tires short, but all-in-all, the PR3 wet or dry, is an impressive sneaker. I usually get 3k out of my PP rear, and this 3 is as sticky and will get you across the slab when you need to get there, although a bit more expensive. 190/55 I will be changing front and rear at the same time as planned, and will get the PR3 again for sure.

Id like to know if the rear road 3 is getting the same life as the Road 2, have you ran them both?

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PP's are freak'n awesome: wet and dry. I know, I've been running them for years on much heavier and MUCH more powerful bikes. I had a trip planned to PA for a National rally in July (BMWNA) and mounted a PR3 on the rear and PP front, knowing I would be forced to do slabbin'. Let me tell you, that PR3 rear has nearly 5200 miles on it now (maybe I'll get the rest of our short season out of it), and they have not been easy ones. 175 HP usually leaves my tires short, but all-in-all, the PR3 wet or dry, is an impressive sneaker. I usually get 3k out of my PP rear, and this 3 is as sticky and will get you across the slab when you need to get there, although a bit more expensive. 190/55 I will be changing front and rear at the same time as planned, and will get the PR3 again for sure.

Id like to know if the rear road 3 is getting the same life as the Road 2, have you ran them both?

I've never run a PR2 but have a new one still in the wrapper for next year.

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PP's are freak'n awesome: wet and dry. I know, I've been running them for years on much heavier and MUCH more powerful bikes. I had a trip planned to PA for a National rally in July (BMWNA) and mounted a PR3 on the rear and PP front, knowing I would be forced to do slabbin'. Let me tell you, that PR3 rear has nearly 5200 miles on it now (maybe I'll get the rest of our short season out of it), and they have not been easy ones. 175 HP usually leaves my tires short, but all-in-all, the PR3 wet or dry, is an impressive sneaker. I usually get 3k out of my PP rear, and this 3 is as sticky and will get you across the slab when you need to get there, although a bit more expensive. 190/55 I will be changing front and rear at the same time as planned, and will get the PR3 again for sure.

Id like to know if the rear road 3 is getting the same life as the Road 2, have you ran them both?

I've never run a PR2 but have a new one still in the wrapper for next year.

well, I noticed the milege you got out of the Ppower rear, and seeing the milege thus far on the road 3, sounds like the road 3 didnt lose any life with the change from the road 2, so maybe I try one, thx for the info!

course, lets hope they didnt sacrifice traction

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So, what I have found is if you ride more twisties than straight roads then PR2 and 2CT are just pure garbage. (Don't even get me started on the Pilot Pure trash)

Surely I must be misunderstanding you. I haven't tried the Pilot Roads, but the PP and PP 2CT are by far the best tires I have ever used for outright grip, stability and nimble handling. I attribute a large portion of my love of those tires to their pointy profile which results in quick turn-in and a big contact patch when leaned over. So I can't fathom anyone complaining about the PP or 2CT.

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Seems my average that I calculated earlier in this thread is accurate. The last couple sets of PP front/PR2 rear averaged 2900mi.

I put this last set on at 33,333mi. Today I went for a rip after work, about an hour of hard riding, and felt the rear end sliding around a bit towards the end of the ride. Looked at my rear tire when I got home and found this:

dd7f1074.jpg

b654dab8.jpg

Odometer currently reads 36,188mi. This is uncorrected running -1/+1 gearing. So less than 2855mi from this set. :comp13:

Looks like I'll need to find something to get me through the rest of the season, then budget for 2 sets of Powers for 2012. Sigh.

SEb, you see the wear bars and the snipe that extends past the wear bar into the center of the tire, when that small channel goes flush, I replace. So you can go sub wear bar on the road 2, just an fyI, some tires you cant. Its good for several hundred additional miles. You are close though, but you can atleast break 3000 mile easily

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Seems my average that I calculated earlier in this thread is accurate. The last couple sets of PP front/PR2 rear averaged 2900mi. I put this last set on at 33,333mi. Today I went for a rip after work, about an hour of hard riding, and felt the rear end sliding around a bit towards the end of the ride. Looked at my rear tire when I got home and found this: dd7f1074.jpgb654dab8.jpg Odometer currently reads 36,188mi. This is uncorrected running -1/+1 gearing. So less than 2855mi from this set. :comp13: Looks like I'll need to find something to get me through the rest of the season, then budget for 2 sets of Powers for 2012. Sigh.
SEb, you see the wear bars and the snipe that extends past the wear bar into the center of the tire, when that small channel goes flush, I replace. So you can go sub wear bar on the road 2, just an fyI, some tires you cant. Its good for several hundred additional miles. You are close though, but you can atleast break 3000 mile easily

Just because I can, doesn't mean that I will. My tires wear out this quickly because I push them hard when I ride, that's just how I ride. I don't try to stretch them to the wear limits because it limits my fun(although controlled slides are sometimes very amusing) and it increases my risks. I'm much more satisfied with knowing that I have good rubber vs being satisfied that I got every last mile out of a tire. It will go on a shelf to be used in an emergency.

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Seems my average that I calculated earlier in this thread is accurate. The last couple sets of PP front/PR2 rear averaged 2900mi. I put this last set on at 33,333mi. Today I went for a rip after work, about an hour of hard riding, and felt the rear end sliding around a bit towards the end of the ride. Looked at my rear tire when I got home and found this: dd7f1074.jpgb654dab8.jpg Odometer currently reads 36,188mi. This is uncorrected running -1/+1 gearing. So less than 2855mi from this set. :comp13: Looks like I'll need to find something to get me through the rest of the season, then budget for 2 sets of Powers for 2012. Sigh.
SEb, you see the wear bars and the snipe that extends past the wear bar into the center of the tire, when that small channel goes flush, I replace. So you can go sub wear bar on the road 2, just an fyI, some tires you cant. Its good for several hundred additional miles. You are close though, but you can atleast break 3000 mile easily

Just because I can, doesn't mean that I will. My tires wear out this quickly because I push them hard when I ride, that's just how I ride. I don't try to stretch them to the wear limits because it limits my fun(although controlled slides are sometimes very amusing) and it increases my risks. I'm much more satisfied with knowing that I have good rubber vs being satisfied that I got every last mile out of a tire. It will go on a shelf to be used in an emergency.

Yeah, whether you would or wouldnt wasnt a concern, I just wanted you to get over 3,000 miles, which you could of easily.

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Because the carpal tunnel in my left wrist isn't as bad as the right one yet... :ph34r:

I thought you were getting that taken care off.!?!?! During the off-season would be the right time...

Maybe if you enjoyed the right-handers more you wouldn't be so merciless on the lefties. End result 3500 miles :laugh:

I'm going the assume that the slippery rear feeling was while leaning over. As shown by your tire photos, the most wear is on the side where the rubber is the same grade as the PP's, so yeah, save 40$ on the PP rear for an oil change. Hey, speaking of oil, what do you....never mind... :tongue:

Brian

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Because the carpal tunnel in my left wrist isn't as bad as the right one yet... :ph34r:

I thought you were getting that taken care off.!?!?! During the off-season would be the right time...

Maybe if you enjoyed the right-handers more you wouldn't be so merciless on the lefties. End result 3500 miles :laugh:

I'm going the assume that the slippery rear feeling was while leaning over. As shown by your tire photos, the most wear is on the side where the rubber is the same grade as the PP's, so yeah, save 40$ on the PP rear for an oil change. Hey, speaking of oil, what do you....never mind... :tongue:

Brian

I got a cortisone shot in my right wrist, docs said it would work & that it would last 6-9 months. It did work, but only for about 2.5 months. :sad:

Currently medicating with lots of Advil and Rx steroid/anti-inflammatory.

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Because the carpal tunnel in my left wrist isn't as bad as the right one yet... :ph34r:

I thought you were getting that taken care off.!?!?! During the off-season would be the right time...

Maybe if you enjoyed the right-handers more you wouldn't be so merciless on the lefties. End result 3500 miles :laugh:

I'm going the assume that the slippery rear feeling was while leaning over. As shown by your tire photos, the most wear is on the side where the rubber is the same grade as the PP's, so yeah, save 40$ on the PP rear for an oil change. Hey, speaking of oil, what do you....never mind... :tongue:

Brian

I got a cortisone shot in my right wrist, docs said it would work & that it would last 6-9 months. It did work, but only for about 2.5 months. :sad:

Currently medicating with lots of Advil and Rx steroid/anti-inflammatory.

Talk about your thread hijack.....anyhow you've got another 50+ years to put on the odometer, get that fixed right and proper! Show me your scars at next year's Catskills run.

Brian

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I know a couple people that had the surgery and it didn't last their lifetime, so I'm going to try everything I can before getting it done. I can always re-mount the tire backwards on the wheel to use up the right side. :goofy:

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I know a couple people that had the surgery and it didn't last their lifetime, so I'm going to try everything I can before getting it done. I can always re-mount the tire backwards on the wheel to use up the right side. :goofy:

IMO , you have to adress what caused the injury, or you'll never fix it! So that important

as an example, I developed a left forearm tendon issue, from excessive VFR rear sweep in the bars, after about 2 years, I couldnt even palm a jar of pickles or roll down a truck window, without excrusating pain and weakness.

Once I fixed the Issue creating, instant improvement and 6 month later fully a non issue.

So thats my point, find the issue that cause it and dont do that anymore as a first step.

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So thats my point, find the issue that cause it and dont do that anymore as a first step.

Agreed, but, easier said than done.

Its like one place I worked at, the job tweaked the joint my trigger finger and probably would continue, I got rid of that job, no more issue , finger healed. That finger is my sole braking finger, Pretty important.

I dont think its hard to fiqure out what caused the issue. Did you ever injure that wrist before?

Trace it down, could also be ergo related

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