Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 You could always try rewinding your stator yourself. It's not exactly rocket science. Worth a try if you are handy. You know, I never even thought of that. I mean, I'm a dab hand with a soldering iron and I'm very much into electric RC planes where there is a lot of hand-wiring that goes on for brushless motors (i.e. the opposite of a stator). I'll stick with known quantities for now though, but might use my dead one as a patient! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 OK, Stator has been removed: Fried stator? I would say this looks burned up, but the brown bits are the part which is not swimming in oil, whereas the yellow bits would be constantly submerged. Anyone want to suggest whether they think this is the look of a dead stator or not? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 Dammit now I can't get those frakking Stator mount bolts out! I've only managed to remove one and stripped the heads of two of the remaining three! RAAAGH! Stupid Torx heads! :cheerleader: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 HAH! Eat my angle grinder you stupid Torx bolts. One stator removed and disassembled. I hate bolts which won't come out. All I can picture in my mind is some redneck mouth breather torquing those bolts down with an air ratchet, so while I'm griding the heads off I think of that guy. :lobby: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted April 23, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 Hard to tell just by looking at the stator if it is bad or not unless it is obviously burned up. The correct way to electrically troubleshoot the stator is with the stator installed and even with the bike running. This is the bible for testing a charging circuit. Just follow the yellow brick road. If you test the coils with a meter and they ohm out OK and there aren't any shorts to ground the next text is with the bike running and testing between all 3 possible phase-to-phase combinations at both idle and 5k to make sure they are close to the same voltage and more than 50v. The last time I tested my stator I got infinity from all 3 leads to ground, .6 ohms between any two leads, 20v phase-to-phase on all 3 combinations at idle and at 5k I got 64v, 63v, & 65v -all pretty close since I was not 100% sure I was at the exact same point of 5000 RPM's since I was just using the onboard dash tach instead of a digital meter. If you test the stator like this and you get funky readings don't just buy a new one and assume the stator is bad. Cut that damn connector off and try it again. If it still has an issue cut the wires off about 6 inches from where they leave the motor and try one more time. It might be the wires. I'd even try ONE more time to test out the wires by cutting and resoldering them inside the engine in case the wires were borkxed where they came out the hole before I spent money and time pulling the starter. That's how we do things in the electrical field -test stuff with meters before we start yanking and replacing stuff on hunches. I should have posted that link the other day before you started yanking the stator. As for the stripped and stuck bolts. Air tools are awesome (even cheap air tools). Harbor Freight had a really nice air compressor on sale for $99 the other week. A fairly decent 1/2" air impact tool was on sale for $14.99 -they wouldn't last forever for a pro, but for a shadetree mechanic they would be a godsend. For $200 total, one can buy a fairly nice shadetree air tool setup from Harbor Freight. Or at least invest in their $10 hand-impact driver that you hit with a hammer -every motorcyclist who does more than change his own oil should have one of those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted April 23, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 HAH! Eat my angle grinder you stupid Torx bolts. One stator removed and disassembled. I hate bolts which won't come out. All I can picture in my mind is some redneck mouth breather torquing those bolts down with an air ratchet, so while I'm griding the heads off I think of that guy. :lobby: Now you need a set of left-hand drill bits and maybe an easy out to extract the bolt stubs if you can't get on them with an external stud extractor. I've found that the left-hand drill will often get the stud out before it has made a big enough hole for the easy out to fit into -it doesn't hurt at least and make the stud any tighter. Again, Harbor Freight sells left-hand drill sets for like $4.99 (Did I mention that I love Harbor Freight?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 Hard to tell just by looking at the stator if it is bad or not unless it is obviously burned up. The correct way to electrically troubleshoot the stator is with the stator installed and even with the bike running. I'm curious, is it OK to test it when the stator is not connected to the R/R? Basically it's a spinning magnet then with the electrons not going anywhere. I tested it both ways, the results were the same. This is the bible for testing a charging circuit. Just follow the yellow brick road. Yep, that's what I followed to determine my regulator appears to be OK and the stator looks to be fried. Whatr is annoying about all these diagnostic processes is that they don't explicitly say "you may get good readings for your coil resistance, and have no continuity to ground yet STILL have a broken stator". If you test the coils with a meter and they ohm out OK and there aren't any shorts to ground the next text is with the bike running and testing between all 3 possible phase-to-phase combinations at both idle and 5k to make sure they are close to the same voltage and more than 50v. The last time I tested my stator I got infinity from all 3 leads to ground, .6 ohms between any two leads, 20v phase-to-phase on all 3 combinations at idle and at 5k I got 64v, 63v, & 65v -all pretty close since I was not 100% sure I was at the exact same point of 5000 RPM's since I was just using the onboard dash tach instead of a digital meter. They look like tidy numbers. Mine wasn't even increasing with engine rpm, so lord know what's going on in there. I might test the voltage on my CBR stator since it has race fairings and they should clip off easily. If my multimeter shows a healthy voltage I'll feel better knowing that it's returning good readings. It's been a reliable piece of kit for over 15 years, but I probably need a decent analogue one as well. If you test the stator like this and you get funky readings don't just buy a new one and assume the stator is bad. Cut that damn connector off and try it again. If it still has an issue cut the wires off about 6 inches from where they leave the motor and try one more time. It might be the wires. I'd even try ONE more time to test out the wires by cutting and resoldering them inside the engine in case the wires were borkxed where they came out the hole before I spent money and time pulling the starter. That's how we do things in the electrical field -test stuff with meters before we start yanking and replacing stuff on hunches. I should have posted that link the other day before you started yanking the stator. My problem is I have lots of wonderful ideas and nowhere near enough tools to complete them if anything goes wrong. Which happens more often than I would like. As for the stripped and stuck bolts. Air tools are awesome (even cheap air tools). Harbor Freight had a really nice air compressor on sale for $99 the other week. A fairly decent 1/2" air impact tool was on sale for $14.99 -they wouldn't last forever for a pro, but for a shadetree mechanic they would be a godsend. For $200 total, one can buy a fairly nice shadetree air tool setup from Harbor Freight. Or at least invest in their $10 hand-impact driver that you hit with a hammer -every motorcyclist who does more than change his own oil should have one of those. Yeah I actually have air tools. I don't have anything to let me drive a tiny torx head though that would take the stress of the air tool. All the stuff I have would have shattered. :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Serenity_VFR Posted April 23, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 You could test for resistance with the coil off the bike, but you can't test for voltage for obvious reasons unless you could somehow rig up the stator and the rotor into a jig and spin the rotor at 5k with a fast drill or something. I'd test for resistance with the 3P connector at the end cut off and see if there is a change (that is if you had bad resistance to begin with) and check for ground to the frame of the stator if you had that too. Then I'd keep cutting the wires down and rechecking to eliminate the possibility that the wires were bad. If you are not getting a good phase-to-phase resistance reading it's probably because one of the winding wires was cut/broke on one of the coils, or is broke between them. Same for a ground fault. One always hopes that a component fails in such a way that it is the easiest/cheapest to fix. If it is the yellow wires that are broke/melted/shorted together that would be a simple fix to splice new ones on. If not, it's probably the coil wires and a new stator or rewinding it is your only option. As for bits, I've often used non air-tool approved bits in air tools. They wear out faster, but I've only rarely had one shatter. I don't mind replacing cheap tools every once in a while -about the only thing I am concerned about is damaging a fastener when it is something expensive or odd. I've found that just about everything on a motorcycle engine will need an impact tool to remove as the fasteners are purposely made out of cheese (better to strip a fastener than a case thread! The Japanese OEM's do this on purpose. While I'm not a fan of the torx-head bolt, it's still years ahead of the old allen-head bolts they used to use. And as you probably guessed, I've got a couple of complete sets of driver tips from Harbor Freight -even the "security" tips. My most prized tip is a special electrician's high-voltage triple-prong security socket that they only give to those of us who are certified on doing medium to high voltage work (to an electrician, anything below 1000v is "low voltage") But when you get over 10,000v things start to get interesting and all the gear is buttoned up with special bolts so that dumb electricians don't get funny ideas and start taking stuff apart hot) Sorry if my hands are not as grizzled as yours, and are instead soft and pink. The construction industry has been a little "slow" lately so my hands have become girly soft and pink from the lack of use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 Sorry if my hands are not as grizzled as yours, and are instead soft and pink. The construction industry has been a little "slow" lately so my hands have become girly soft and pink from the lack of use. Are you kidding me? Mate I work in IT security, so my hands are SOFT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 23, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 23, 2010 Anyway back to regular programming - I found out something today which can make replacement stators not work correctly, specifically on original 2002 models. The outside diameter of my stator is about 107.5mm. The outside diameter of the replacement stators from Tightwad and others is 115mm. Those 115mm stators are designed for the 2003 models and newer, or a 2002 model which has had the combination stator/rotor recall. We never had the stator recall here in Australia but they don't sell the old stator anymore, that's for sure. The new rotor/stator kit is quoted as part number 31100-MCW-315 and is $569, and is the only option if you want to buy new from Honda. :biggrin: So ultimately the 2002 (pre-upgrade) and 2003+ stators are different sizes and require different Rotors. There is the unfortunate tale on the OzVFR forums of a bloke whose 2003 stator died and the dealer replaced it with an original 2002 (not upgraded) stator. He was wondering why his stator completely maxed out at 50v AC at 5,000rpm - the gap between the stator and rotor was too great, causing a much smaller effect on the windings in the stator and hence less output. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 24, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 24, 2010 Folks I picked up a replacement 2nd-hand stator from the wreckers. It's definitely the right diameter, except that my original stator says "1 DY", and the new one says "2 DX". Does anyone have a clue WTF that means? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 OK, Stator has been removed: Fried stator? I would say this looks burned up, but the brown bits are the part which is not swimming in oil, whereas the yellow bits would be constantly submerged. Anyone want to suggest whether they think this is the look of a dead stator or not? Dammit now I can't get those frakking Stator mount bolts out! I've only managed to remove one and stripped the heads of two of the remaining three! RAAAGH! Stupid Torx heads! :rolleyes: HAH! Eat my angle grinder you stupid Torx bolts. One stator removed and disassembled. I hate bolts which won't come out. All I can picture in my mind is some redneck mouth breather torquing those bolts down with an air ratchet, so while I'm griding the heads off I think of that guy. :wheel: Oh man... can you say "Domino Disaster Effect"?? That's like being kicked in the balls when you're down... bloody stator, someone should blow stators up!! On a sidenote, I don't think the stator is submerged in oil... why would it be?? It's an electrmagnetic generator thingy... I don't think oil is the medium a stator needs to be surrounded by. Actually I think the fact that oil gets in there is part of the problem... there's a breather hole in the casing that allows oil vapour to get in there and I reckon that makes the stators go KFC... plus yours is a 2002 VTEC... 2002 and 2003 models (at least) were/are famous for the stator recall... a bandwagon Honda Spain did not climb aboard... stators on these two year models are dropping like flies over here in Spain at the owners' cost. Apparently the isolating material is not up to the job. Rewinding the stators over here has had a 50% success rate, possibly due moreso to the skill level of the technician than anything else. Get a replacement one from anywhere else but the same year model VTECs... using a 2nd hand one from the same year model would be equivalent to doing a tumour transplant (removing one tumour and grafting in another one). Tightwad sent me one for 1/6 the price a new OEM one would have cost me. I'm sure that stator is toast. It should be the creamy colour like the lower half. Such radically different readings from one pair of phases to the other (3 pairs in all) is a sure sign... I've replaced several on mine and mates' bikes (even seen a roasted stator on a 1998 5th gen, rare occurence). Those torx bolts are tough nuts to crack... I'm sure they use loctite on them babies. Don't put gasket goo on the entire gasket, just the mid-lateral sections indicated in the workshop manual... have an extra set of hands for someone to hold the rubber gromet and cables in place 'cause they like to dislodge just as you're lining the cover up... and as the rotor is magnetic it can rip the cover out of your hands all of a sudden... another tip is to have the gasket goo hold the gasket in place on the engine mating surface, not on the cover, that way it's one less fiddley thing to deal with. Don't overdo the amount of goo. Special emphasis with the goo on the rubber grommet where the cables exit. Did you pull the cables through the engine's V having tied a string or light-gauge wire to the connector end?? This helps reroute the cables back through to the other side... be careful not to dislodge any connectors or tubes when rerouting them back through... Honda policy when solving a dead stator over here is to replace stator, R/R and battery to eliminate any possible collaterally damaged parts and make a fresh start (1200€ :blush: )... but the wiring issues don't help and they don't have the harness recall over here either :fing02: Anyway... good luck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Anyway back to regular programming - I found out something today which can make replacement stators not work correctly, specifically on original 2002 models. The outside diameter of my stator is about 107.5mm. The outside diameter of the replacement stators from Tightwad and others is 115mm. Those 115mm stators are designed for the 2003 models and newer, or a 2002 model which has had the combination stator/rotor recall. We never had the stator recall here in Australia (as far as I know, anyway). So ultimately the 2002 and 2003+ stators are different sizes and require different Rotors. There is the unfortunate tale on the OzVFR forums of a bloke whose 2003 stator died and the dealer replaced it with an original 2002 stator. He was wondering why his stator completely maxed out at 50v AC at 5,000rpm - the gap between the stator and rotor was too great, causing a much smaller effect on the windings in the stator and hence less output. FULL ON!! I wasn't aware of this. Please disregard certain suggestions of mine made in ignorance of this info... so... if you can only use a 2002 one and the 2002 ones had faulty insulation material... WTF?? Guess you gotta go aftermarket or as you have done, find a 2nd-hand one which has the equivalent specs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Folks I picked up a replacement 2nd-hand stator from the wreckers. It's definitely the right diameter, except that my original stator says "1 DY", and the new one says "2 DX". Does anyone have a clue WTF that means? One's male and the other female?? :wheel: :blush: :rolleyes: :fing02: (just a chromosome joke :bliss: ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 Anyway back to regular programming - I found out something today which can make replacement stators not work correctly, specifically on original 2002 models. The outside diameter of my stator is about 107.5mm. The outside diameter of the replacement stators from Tightwad and others is 115mm. Those 115mm stators are designed for the 2003 models and newer, or a 2002 model which has had the combination stator/rotor recall. We never had the stator recall here in Australia (as far as I know, anyway). So ultimately the 2002 and 2003+ stators are different sizes and require different Rotors. There is the unfortunate tale on the OzVFR forums of a bloke whose 2003 stator died and the dealer replaced it with an original 2002 stator. He was wondering why his stator completely maxed out at 50v AC at 5,000rpm - the gap between the stator and rotor was too great, causing a much smaller effect on the windings in the stator and hence less output. FULL ON!! I wasn't aware of this. Please disregard certain suggestions of mine made in ignorance of this info... so... if you can only use a 2002 one and the 2002 ones had faulty insulation material... WTF?? Guess you gotta go aftermarket or as you have done, find a 2nd-hand one which has the equivalent specs... Only just in on this topic and yep quite a few years back I can recall people having trouble with that - in fact the member who was tearing his hair out over it until he discovered the difference was another Aussie... I can't recall whether that one went down over VFRD or the old 'big list'. I think it was here though. BTW Ausp - am currently watching the clip for 'Most People I Know' on the Ultimate ANZACS Anthems program on MusicMax, hope you're having the appropriate celebrations over there :cheerleader: Oh dear they've kind of taken the shine off the Billy Thorpe track with the next track 'Love is in the air'... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 25, 2010 Share Posted April 25, 2010 BTW Ausp - am currently watching the clip for 'Most People I Know' on the Ultimate ANZACS Anthems program on MusicMax, hope you're having the appropriate celebrations over there :cheerleader: Oh dear they've kind of taken the shine off the Billy Thorpe track with the next track 'Love is in the air'... Emmm... no excuse other than the fact that I haven't been in touch with Australian current affairs for the last, oh, decade or so!! My sister (Brisbane, in fact all my family live in Brisbane now), did mention her taking on her 6-year-old son's enquiry into why one should remember people who went to war, to which she replied "so we don't have any more wars"... which I thought was a fitting response for a 6-year-old mind to digest. Actually more concerned on a local level at the moment. The Spanish VFR Club is in full mourning over the loss of one of our most respected and appreciated members, Uveefeerre (Eusebio Villatoro), who lost his life together with 3 other military servicemen in the helicopter crash in Haiti, while providing much needed logistical and medical aid to the victims there. His was as close to altruism as one could get as this servicial attitude spilled over into evey other aspect of his personal life as well. On the forum he was constantly helping everyone out with mechanical and other advice and never asked for anything in return. I'm proud to be able to say he was a good friend of mine and am saddened terribly by his sudden parting. R.I.P. He leaves behind his Ethiopian wife Abeba and his MC Family "ClubVFRSpain.es". They had no children. We will be organizing a national MC Meet in his honour and presenting a plaque to his wife. This is the type of excercise I much prefer the military forces be used for. The World Wars may have been necessary and unavoidable, but there are and have been many since then that I seriously consider of dubious necessity. Although I suppose that war will always exist. Thanks for reminding me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 27, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 27, 2010 *Ahem* It's ALIVE!!!! Gee, it only cost me in excess of $500 to fix the Facking thing, but it's Facking Charging, and a healthy 14 volts on the money, no less! This damned problem required: New main fuse B holder (x2) (maybe $20) A bunch of wire (couple of bucks I suppose) A bunch of spade connectors and wire joiners (maybe $30) A proper crimping tool ($59 - I just got ANGRY with the cheap crappy one I had) A 2nd-hand stator from a low-mileage '02 ($150) An aftermarket regulator ($250) A shitload of swearing (priceless) Unfortunately, I just couldn't wait the time it would take to get a cheap 2nd-hand R1 regulator from Fleabay so I had to fork out for a brand new aftermarket regulator ($240 AUD). The best bike electrical shop in the state (City Auto Electrical Services) re-badge a regulator marked as an SH579B-11 (used on a HEAP of bikes by the look of what Google tells me) and sell it to all the bike dealers. It does not have a monitor wire, but I don't give a shit because the monitor wire that goes off to the front wiring harness and all over the place was going to be bypassed and run directly to the battery anyway. My connectors and wires are now all cool to the touch with the exception of my staor AC wires, which are warm to the touch. However, that whole thing is currently joined up to the regulator using what I had available tonight - some similar 5 amp wire and some bullet connectors. I know, I know, it's not good enough as a permanent job but I just wanted the facking bike to RUN, damn it. I'll put in some better wiring and connectors when I'm not completely emotionally shattered by the whole debacle. You know what? It's time for a f*cking beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted April 27, 2010 Share Posted April 27, 2010 Hey... bonza!! At least now you don't have to edit your signature... :lobby: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted April 28, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted April 28, 2010 On a sidenote, I don't think the stator is submerged in oil... why would it be?? It's an electrmagnetic generator thingy... I don't think oil is the medium a stator needs to be surrounded by. Actually I think the fact that oil gets in there is part of the problem... Nah they are indeed submerged in the oil. The stator and rotor are "open" to engine oil in the sump/crankcase. There's not a huge amount of oil in there, but enough to stop the disolouration of the epoxy coating, that's for sure. The only part not coated in epoxy is the outside of the stator which faces the rotor magnets. I would have to assume this means that the epoxy coating is to protect the windings only. I haven't seen a picture yet of a used VFR stator that wasn't toasty brown on the top, and I've been looking for a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 When I popped the cover off 1 or 2 years ago to swap my fried stator out for a new one, there was just a dribble of oil in there... "submerged" for me evokes images of submarines... :cool: like I said, there's a breather hole which allows a (very) small amount of oil in there but I don't know if it's a good idea or not... maybe it is... I'm no expert... Still busy being a pert. :goofy: Either way... you should know that cosmic empathy does exist... my stator just fried (again) last thursday... If I ever meet a Honda rep, he's gonna get one big kick in the ass... that's 2 stators my VTEC has fried... and I've improved the wiring to the bike... Now I don't think it's the stator... it's the wiring, there's still something I haven't addressed to avoid this... Honda should be ashamed really... I want the Stator and Harness recalls and can't access them because they don't have them over here in Spain. :fing02: :squid: :beer: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer kaldek Posted May 1, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 1, 2010 Either way... you should know that cosmic empathy does exist... my stator just fried (again) last thursday... If I ever meet a Honda rep, he's gonna get one big kick in the ass... that's 2 stators my VTEC has fried... and I've improved the wiring to the bike... Now I don't think it's the stator... it's the wiring, there's still something I haven't addressed to avoid this... Honda should be ashamed really... I want the Stator and Harness recalls and can't access them because they don't have them over here in Spain. Damn, early model VTEC units are dropping like flies at the moment! Did you say your replacement stator was from Honda? It might be worth considering the Ricks electrics stator. It could well be that the Honda parts are still a bit shite. Here's the evidence: 2002 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D01 (no longer available, can only be replaced with combined stator/rotor combo part) 2003 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D02 BUT ONLY UP TO ENGINE SN 2503808 Latest 2003 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D03 2003 to 2009 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D03 I think those part codes say a lot. Your bike is probably still running a shit part, just like mine is. I replaced my stator with another stator from an '02 at a wreckers. Sure enough, it's a bit weak at idle rpms. At some point in another 12 months, I can see myself having to get a completely new stator/rotor combo which beefs it up to '06 quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auspanglish Posted May 1, 2010 Share Posted May 1, 2010 Either way... you should know that cosmic empathy does exist... my stator just fried (again) last thursday... If I ever meet a Honda rep, he's gonna get one big kick in the ass... that's 2 stators my VTEC has fried... and I've improved the wiring to the bike... Now I don't think it's the stator... it's the wiring, there's still something I haven't addressed to avoid this... Honda should be ashamed really... I want the Stator and Harness recalls and can't access them because they don't have them over here in Spain. Damn, early model VTEC units are dropping like flies at the moment! Did you say your replacement stator was from Honda? It might be worth considering the Ricks electrics stator. It could well be that the Honda parts are still a bit shite. Here's the evidence: 2002 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D01 (no longer available, can only be replaced with combined stator/rotor combo part) 2003 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D02 BUT ONLY UP TO ENGINE SN 2503808 Latest 2003 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D03 2003 to 2009 model stator part code: 31120-MCW-D03 I think those part codes say a lot. Your bike is probably still running a shit part, just like mine is. I replaced my stator with another stator from an '02 at a wreckers. Sure enough, it's a bit weak at idle rpms. At some point in another 12 months, I can see myself having to get a completely new stator/rotor combo which beefs it up to '06 quality. No, it was a Rick's unit. I've opted for an OEM one, I was hoping they'd improved the part... can't fork out for a new rotor AND stator right now... I was going to go for another RIck's one, 'cause the price is hard to beat, but... oh well... hopefully a few more improvements to the harness will keep me in good stead... Thanks for the info, the last part no is clearly the desireable unit... but as I understand I'll need the newer rotor for that.. Feeling somewhat resigned to stator swaps becoming a regular part of maintenance on this bike... but Honda will be hearing from me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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