enzed_viffer Posted February 15, 2009 Share Posted February 15, 2009 Yesterday I adjusted the shock length on my Elka by loosening the locknut and turning the bottom nut around. When I did this, I noticed that the bottom adjuster (rebound damping, IIRC) turned with it. Did this adjust the damping, or is supposed to rotate like this? (FWIW, I adjusted the length back to where it was, as after adjustment the bottom shock mount hit the top of the catalytic converter, so if it DID adjust the damping, it should now be back where it started). This raises another question: I've recorded any adjustments in the booklet that came with the shock, but only in terms of how many clicks in/out, harder/softer. I'm guessing ti would be worthwhile winding all the adjusters in and counting the number of clicks, so that I always have a known reference position to return to, yes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 If they work like most aftermarket shocks then no, the entire body rotates including the valve adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer JamieDaugherty Posted February 16, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2009 Not having messed with an Elka shock that much I can't really tell you for sure. I'm with Baily though, it's probably just the whole assembly rotating. You have the right idea, turn your adjustment back in and count the number of clicks. I bet you'll find that your setting hasn't changed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enzed_viffer Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 Yeah, now that I think about it, it was just the whole lower body rotating. Kind of a bummer about the lack of room due to the catcon though; this also means there's a lot o heat from the rear headers and engine that gets transferred to the shock. I'd like to swap the catcon for just a 2-1 simple connector, but it's apparently illegal here to do so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR Capt.Bob Posted February 16, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2009 There should be directions that came with the shock. If you followed them you should be alright. I was under the impression that you had to disconnect the lower shock from the linkage assembly to extend the shock. Take a ball peen hammer to that stinking cat and make a recess for the shock. Hammer and drift if it's hard to reach. Just make sure you don't puncture it. Bottom of drift pin must be blunt. A large c-clamp may be a safer way to press and indent into the exhaust. :beer: wear your saftey glasses. :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baileyrock Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 I was under the impression that you had to disconnect the lower shock from the linkage assembly to extend the shock. That would be a really stupid set-up if you had to do that. :beer: I thinks it's a misconception that that's what needs to be done, but the shock body can spin freely around the piston shaft making any parts removal unnecessary. Just loosen the lock nut and turn the height adjuster(entire shock body) to desired height and lock the nut back down, nothing should change except ride height! :fing02: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer VFR Capt.Bob Posted February 16, 2009 Member Contributer Share Posted February 16, 2009 I was under the impression that you had to disconnect the lower shock from the linkage assembly to extend the shock. That would be a really stupid set-up if you had to do that. :dry: I thinks it's a misconception that that's what needs to be done, but the shock body can spin freely around the piston shaft making any parts removal unnecessary. Just loosen the lock nut and turn the height adjuster(entire shock body) to desired height and lock the nut back down, nothing should change except ride height! :cool: I think you are 100% right. It's raining here in So. Calif. so I will be going out to the garage an raising the rear ride height of my 98. Front forks are in the stock position. Glad I read this thread as I have something to do today beside watch the kids while wife goes skiiing. :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 I was under the impression that you had to disconnect the lower shock from the linkage assembly to extend the shock. That would be a really stupid set-up if you had to do that. :cool: I thinks it's a misconception that that's what needs to be done, but the shock body can spin freely around the piston shaft making any parts removal unnecessary. Just loosen the lock nut and turn the height adjuster(entire shock body) to desired height and lock the nut back down, nothing should change except ride height! :huh: Same here. Just loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster. FYI, bike feels great with about an extra 1/2" of rear ride height, and I've had no issues with front end stability. It makes one a little more choosy about parking the bike though, as there's a little more lean when it's on the sidestand. Aside from initial setting, I backed off high-speed compression a few clicks and added preload. Rear end traction is phenomenal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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