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Help! Burnt Coupler


ColoMotoChick

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I have a 2003 VFR800. I started is up over the winter, and soon noticed a burning smell. After removing the right cowling, I found the burnt area in a 3-wire coupling. It lies against a big black hose. I'd post a pic, but for the life of me can't figure out how. :ph34r:

The bike started and ran fine... just the plastic burning smell. I've no prior issues with the bike at all. I took it into my local shop and today they called with the shocking news... I need a new stator & RR (in addition to the obvious replacement of the coupler set). $850 ($512 just in parts). :laugh: I'm a bit skeptical of the suggested fix. I don’t think I have a bad stator or R&R. Thinking I should just get the coupler repaired and see what happens.

Would appreciate some thoughts from you knowledgeable guys/gals.

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Well, you can bypass the connector and solder the three yellow wires together. Sounds funny, but it doesn't matter which one connects to which. After that, you'll need to test your charging system with a multimeter.

Edit: Unfortunately, it's not unheard of for the stators, regulator/rectifiers, and assorted parts of the wiring harness to malfunction on these bikes. There was a recall that covered the stator, but I think the time window has run out.

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I have a 5th gen and that same connector burned up just like yours and about a million others. I did what Seb mentioned (soldered the wires to each other with no connector) and I have been riding for a year with no problem. It appears that the charging system on mu bike is working fine, but the connector must have built up some resistance due to corrosion. So get your bike back and try this first.

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I have a 2003 VFR800. I started is up over the winter, and soon noticed a burning smell. After removing the right cowling, I found the burnt area in a 3-wire coupling. It lies against a big black hose. I'd post a pic, but for the life of me can't figure out how. :mad:

The bike started and ran fine... just the plastic burning smell. I've no prior issues with the bike at all. I took it into my local shop and today they called with the shocking news... I need a new stator & RR (in addition to the obvious replacement of the coupler set). $850 ($512 just in parts). :ohmy: I'm a bit skeptical of the suggested fix. I don’t think I have a bad stator or R&R. Thinking I should just get the coupler repaired and see what happens.

Would appreciate some thoughts from you knowledgeable guys/gals.

I see you are a new member, so first things first. Welcome to VFRD. You should be forewarned, it can be habit forming here. Unfortunately what the others have said is true. There have been some issues with harnesses and R/R problems on some of the bikes. Search here for a member named Tightwad. He has a homemade harness that several members have had good success with as a replacement. I think many of these problems are caused by using too small or too cheap a wire terminal and as has been mentioned a little corrosion and the junctions start overheating. Hope you get it fixed soon. And be prepared to get bombbarded by the "single" guys!

Ernie

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I have a 5th gen and that same connector burned up just like yours and about a million others. I did what Seb mentioned (soldered the wires to each other with no connector) and I have been riding for a year with no problem. It appears that the charging system on mu bike is working fine, but the connector must have built up some resistance due to corrosion. So get your bike back and try this first.

Thanks! I think I will try the solder solution first. Certainly is cheap and easy. Good 'ole process of elimination.

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Do the solder fix, but check the voltage across the battery terminals with the motor running to make sure you aren`t getting greater than say, 15 volts...if it`s much greater than that your voltage regulator/rectifier has popped and you will need a new one. Best to verify that everything is good after the fix...can`t imagine a dealer telling you that you need a new stator and R/R if you really didn`t........NOT.

Test it after the fix to know for sure, otherwise it will roast your battery and possibly ignition components.

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I had this happen on my 1st Gen it was due to my battery electrolyte being down about half way dry.

P.S. - not sure what the current connectors are like, but for my first gen I found replacement connectors at http://www.vintageconnections.com/ I haven't ordered yet but plan on it for the spring.

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I had this happen on my 1st Gen it was due to my battery electrolyte being down about half way dry.

P.S. - not sure what the current connectors are like, but for my first gen I found replacement connectors at http://www.vintageconnections.com/ I haven't ordered yet but plan on it for the spring.

Next time you need a battery, get an AGM (sealed) battery. I don't have the part # off the top of my head, but there are a few with the right specs that'll fit the VF.

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I had this happen on my 1st Gen it was due to my battery electrolyte being down about half way dry.

P.S. - not sure what the current connectors are like, but for my first gen I found replacement connectors at http://www.vintageconnections.com/ I haven't ordered yet but plan on it for the spring.

Next time you need a battery, get an AGM (sealed) battery. I don't have the part # off the top of my head, but there are a few with the right specs that'll fit the VF.

Yep already in the plans - I got this current one from a mechanic friend for my birthday so couldn't complain. The electrolyte probably leaked out after a low speed get off I had a few weeks before (my own ATGATT story :ohmy: ). Not that I plan on repeating but sealed is the way to go!

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Pretty basic, but I replaced all the RR conectors with the plastic screw type thats sold for household wiring. Its beeen like that for just on a year now, and I haven't had any more trouble with the charging system. (with the origional conectors I was only getting 12.5V. with the mod getting 14.2 with lights on)

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:biggrin: hi there,i found the same burnt out coupler,while i was carrying out routine servicing,i ordered the vfrharnes from tightwad fitted it and tested out the circuits using a multimeter and all seems ok using meter readings obtained in the forums electrical section.hope all works out.rob. :huh:

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:biggrin: hi there,i found the same burnt out coupler,while i was carrying out routine servicing,i ordered the vfrharnes from tightwad fitted it and tested out the circuits using a multimeter and all seems ok using meter readings obtained in the forums electrical section.hope all works out.rob. :huh:

Thanks Rob! That will be plan B... plan A is to try the solder solution first.

That da@n shop I had the bike at actually wanted to charge me $150 to change to coupler. WHAT?!?! I may be a woman, but I'm not stupid. So, I'm off to pick my bike up today and fix it myself. Wish me luck!

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Good luck! And good on ya for sticking it to the man! :huh:

C'mon back if you have any more problems; lots of people here to help fix pretty much anything that goes wrong with these bikes.

Post some pics too! :biggrin:

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And be prepared to get bombbarded by the "single" guys!

Ernie

HEY! What's "single" got to do with it? :goofy:

Besides, everybody knows me and Rivcyko are the official Mods for the ladies..... :blush:

And it's not my fault that she used 'Motochick' as part of her handle. :491:

That's like Sharkbait.... :biggrin:

Welcome aboard, most of us are harmless and just watch the number of visits to your info page climb! :dry:

Greg :huh:

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My 02 VFR did the same. Tests showed that the stator was bad.

Honda does not sell the couplings separately so the dealer would replace RR and stator just to get the couplings unless they are will to improvise or use aftermarket parts.

You should get the Honda shop manual it has electrical tests for the stator. You can not do these tests with the wires soldered together. The twist type wire nuts suggested earlier could be a solution until you have things tested.

Check the resistance between the three stator wires. If there is continuity the stator is bad.

Check AC voltage output of stator

Check DC voltage at battery

Check 30 amp fuse next to battery for melting.

Battery must be in good condition and charge for testing.

Did the dealer do any of these tests?

A year ago Honda started a recall on a wiring harness on this bike. Did you have that done by the dealer?

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