Producing A Fix For The Regulator/rectifier Wiring Issue

[Tightwad]

NOW TAKING ALL ORDERS 1998-2007!!!

After reading thread upon thread, and fix upon fix, as well as doing my own R/R sensor wire fix, I have decided to pursue producing an after market wiring harness. I am tossing around a couple ideas, and could use some target audience input.

Currently the OEM harness, especially in 2002-2005 models has inherent problems. The possible solutions are:

#1. A new sub-harness that plugs directly into the existing R/R, and bypasses the OEM portion altogether. This would be a plug and play replacement with everything needed to just bolt in including a new 30 Amp fuse. Price would be approx $35 + shipping (edited to reflect current cost analysis)

#2. A piggyback version of #1. This would fit into the current harness, disabling the sensor wire from the ignition switch, and running new wires to supplement the OEM Ground and Rew/White wires. This would include everything needed to plug and play, and would come with a smaller fuse installed as it is a supplement, not a direct replacement. Price would be approx $45 + $7 shipping (edited to reflect current cost analysis)

#3. A combination of #1 and #2....you could decided whether to use the piggyback portion, or just the new section. This would have 1 extra connector pair, and would allow you to test the differences by disconnected either the OEM or New harness. Price would be approx $60 plus shipping. (Edited to reflect current cost analysis)

A pre 2002 version would be available as well, with similar pricing, but I would need access to a bike for fitting purposes.

First versions are rolling off the assembly line...errr....workbench as we speak. Harnesses available to cover 2000 and newer bikes. Price is $40 + $7 shipping($22 to Canada) and includes(possibly for a limited time only) a switched accessory wire at no additional cost!!

Please PM me for orders, and specify year of bike in PM.

*NEW*

I found an inexpensive fuse panel, which is compact enough to fit next to the rear brake master cylinder. I am offering this as a pre-wired kit along with my harness:

for $35 (plus shipping if ordered alone) I have everything wired for those getting the harness, just plug the connection together, you can also order it with just blank wires, for mounting without the VFRness. The fuse panel must be ordered with the VFRness for direct compatibility.

This includes 12 gauge wire to the battery with ring terminal, 14 gauge wire from accessory terminal on new VFRness to relay, 12 Gauge to ground from relay, input terminals commoned together to share the power lead, and 4 extra flag terminals to crimp your new accessories onto.

As with anything else, I solder all connections where at all possible.

If someone would like to purchase JUST the relay setup, add $7 for shipping, and the trigger lead will be 3' long, to reach any spot on the bike(taillight, etc).

added 9-13-07:

My website is now online, with most available options. I sell wire, connectors, terminals, tubing, and anything else VFR or Electrical related that I can. if you don't see it, just ask!

WWW.WireMyBike.COM

Update - 9-14-07

I have now received 2 calls from VFR owners who's sensor wire is hot all the time! Why this would be I am not sure, but it means the relay/accessory wire will also be hot all the time. This could potentially drain a battery. I would suggest checking the sensor wire voltage with the key off to be sure it is not energized before installing the VFRness. Should you find that it is, I will send a wire to replace the sensor wire, with a tap connection for connecting to a tail light or similar truly switched source(as the sensor wire SHOULD be).

Update - 9-19-07

Issue with non-switched sensor wire has been resolved, a different wire will be used for activating the relay and providing the R/R with the correct voltage reading. All VFRness's shipped from this point on will be the upgraded model. Those who need the upgrade will have it mailed to them.

For those wanting a clean start, I now have a great item to offer:

Further details can be found here: New regulator

Edited October 2, 2007 by Tightwad

[Tightwad]

From what I have seen on this and other boards, many of the problems are the same, but manifest themselves differently. Most seem to stem from wiring that isn't substantial enough, especially as it relys on other circuits as well.

On the 5th gens, maybe older ones as well, the Wiring is too small, so the wires cause resistance, which makes the R/R work harder, which makes the Stator work harder....the R/R working harder caused it to overheat. The stator working harder causes it to overheat as well. This is evident in the melted portions of harnesses and plugs. Changing the R/R fixes the issue for awhile, but then it wears itself out again.

My wiring harness will simply bypass(or suppliment) the OEM system, providing additional wires. In the "Beef up dem wires" thread, this was accomplished by cutting into the OEM harness and adding wires. Since many aren't comfortable with doing that, or don't know where to start, or don't want to jeopardize their warranty/risk hurting something, I am building a replacement harness.

If I can see an older bike, to measure the best route for the new harness(easiest to install, doesn't get in the way) I can build one for them. I have a 6th gen, so I am starting there.

I appreciate the input!

[Tightwad]

Had to edit costs somewhat, I got more firm pricing on relays and 8 Gauge wire etc. Hopefully no further surprises in store.

#1. $40 + shipping

#2. $45 + Shipping

#3. $60 + Shipping

[Tightwad]

I would be interested for a 5th gen, but would like more details as to what problems it is going to fix and would it be compatible with putting in a blue fuse box for future goodies.

This fix will cover the beefing up of the R/R wires(ground and charge) as well as fixing the 30 Amp fuse problem (distributes load through wires big enough to handle it). It will also fix the Monitor wire issue in the 6th Gen. It should solve problems associate with voltages not remaining steady and batteries being overcharged by the 6th gens(due to monitor wire giving incorrect reading).

There is no reason it won't work with the addition of a fuse box for future use.

[VIPERon]

Regarding the 30 amp fuse mod, I think there's some merit to beefing up the 30 amp fuse itself with a larger more robust 30 amp maxi fuse like the one in the link below. I've trolled thru all the electrical threads and I don't recall anyone mentioning this as contributing to the solution. When I described our problem to some electrical engineers where I work, they were in agreement about beefing up the wires/connectors but also suggested going to the 30 amp maxi fuse rather than the wimpy standard 30 amp.

You can find them at most auto parts stores, but would need a larger fuse holder.

Thoughts?

http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u156810

[Tightwad]

I have ordered the items for the first test batch. I will make 3 kits to start. I have decided to go with option #2, which is a piggy back into the existing harness. Talus suggested this, and I like the idea of two systems working together which in the end gives greater strength. This option solves the "what do I do with the open plug" problem I envisioned as well.

The kit will come with:

2-20Amp fuses, one for the original 30Amp fuse holder, and one for the new fuse holder

1-Wire Harness to augment the existing setup, fully fused and relayed

1-set of directions with pictures to make it so simple my wife will be able to do it

The only tools needed for install will be:

fairing removal tools (allen wrench and small screwdriver for the plastic pins)

8 MM 1/4 drive socket/nutdriver on extension (wrench would work but might be harder)

10 MM Wrench/Socket

basic knowledge of anatomy (male/female difference)

A multi-meter would be helpful for testing the install, if you don't have one I can send one for $15 more that will do the job (I use it as a voltmeter on my bike)

I will have photographs as soon as my connectors, relays, wire, etc arrive. Basically the layout will be this(for those who are interested):

From the Positive terminal of the Battery, an 8 gauge wire(might be 10 gauge) into a fuse.

From the fuse, an 8 gauge wire will run to the R/R area (inside split loom tubing for heat/abrasive protection. The run will most likely be made under the tank, for ease of installation.

From here it junctions into 3 wires, 2 wires piggyback onto the existing Red w/White wires on the R/R plug. One wire goes to the Relay.

The two Green wires will have leads attached at the new connector, and will be joined by the relay ground on a terminal that will bolt onto/under the R/R

The existing sensor wire will be used to trigger the relay. This keeps the sensor wire keyed by the ignition switch.

The new sensor wire will run from the Relay, into the new connector.

If anyone wants to use JUST this wire harness, they simply use a 30 Amp fuse in the new harness, and remove the existing one from the original. I see no reason to want to do this, but the option is built into the design.

More to come, if anyone is a positive on it, speak up for first dibs. As soon as I get a 5th gen to see (and older too if wanted) I will be able to adapt to those years for correct design.

[Tightwad]

The first prototype has been completed!!!!!

Took me about 5 hours to make, mostly because I was taking careful measurements, testing various options, and continually burning myself.

Every connection is Soldered, then taped/heat shrunk. I was forced to use some button-hole connections which aren't as pretty, but those too were soldered. All power wires are 12 Gauge, ground wires are 14 Gauge(will be 12 in the future, only had 14 gauge on hand for the first ones). The entire assembly is encased in split loom tubing (taped over) for heat.

More pictures will be coming, I am off to take my wife out on a date.

[Tightwad]

The installation was very simple:

Remove Seat

Remove Battery

Remove 8mm bolts from front of tank, so it can be lifted up

Remove Right fairing

2 Allen head bolts holding fairing to frame (they have a shoulder on them, so they are different visually when removed)

4 holding fairing to front fairing

2 holding fairing to black part behind the wheel

2 plastic retainers holding left and right fairings together(under fairings) - push in on center to remove (this was a HUGE revelation)

1 plastic retainer holding fairing inside wheel well - push in on center to remove (this was a HUGE revelation)

Unplug connection from R/R to harness (5 wires in connection)

Remove rear bolt from R/R (8mm head, use 1/4" socket on extension)

Starting with the fuse end of the new Harness

run it inside the frame where the radiator hose goes

next pull it up along the inside of the frame

then along the fuel lines that connect into the tank

From the left side of the bike:

pull harness through to the front end of the battery compartment, here it is looking from left to right, under the tank:

feed harness behind battery compartment, and fuse out by the main fuses

This puts the battery connection next to the main battery connection

Next the right side has to be connected...this is simply a case of plugging in the new connectors, and bolting the ground loop under the R/R bolt.

The relay isn't going anywhere, but it can be zip tied to other wires to make it more secure.

Replace the original 30 amp fuse with the supplied 15 amp fuse

Put the right fairing on, bolt the tank back down, put the seat back on, and you are done.

Edited August 13, 2007 by Tightwad

[Tightwad]

I have finalized the price on the Harness system...I need a good name for it....I was able to lower the cost to $40 + $7 shipping for the US. Canada will be slightly higher shipping, whatever the added cost is.

For $47 you get:

1 wiring harness, ready to plug into your 2002 or newer VFR

1 Fused/relayed output wire, in a waterproof quick-connect, which will handle 15 Amps(based on fuse installed in Harness currently, wire/relay is rated to 30 Amp)....THIS IS NOW FREE!!!

1 set of instructions with pictures

Piece of mind that the sensor wire won't cause you problems, and that your 30amp fuse problems are also over.

Also available:

I also have Digital Volt meters. These can be had for an additional $8....I believe everyone should own one! Nothing fancy, simple Harbor Freight tool, but will save you a trip (I use one as a voltmeter on trips!)

PM me for payment details, products will begin shipping in 1 week.

Edited August 13, 2007 by Tightwad

[Tightwad]

This looks great, but one question.......What does the relay accomplish?

I can uinderstand a heavier wire and better connections so the RR see proper voltage to adjust to, but I'm confused on the relay.

The relay is there for two reasons:

#1. The OEM setup is switched via the ignition switch. I simply replicated that by using the sensor wire to trip the relay.

#2. The relay provides a handy point for adding a switched terminal for other accessories, without having to cut into the harness(and thus introduce more potential problems. This circuit will be fine with low demand devices, or will work well to trigger another relay for something like Heated Grips/Suits or a Video Camera that have higher draws, and should be on a dedicated line to the Battery.

[rbertalotto]

This looks great, but one question.......What does the relay accomplish?

I can uinderstand a heavier wire and better connections so the RR see proper voltage to adjust to, but I'm confused on the relay.

The relay is there for two reasons:

#1. The OEM setup is switched via the ignition switch. I simply replicated that by using the sensor wire to trip the relay.

#2. The relay provides a handy point for adding a switched terminal for other accessories, without having to cut into the harness(and thus introduce more potential problems. This circuit will be fine with low demand devices, or will work well to trigger another relay for something like Heated Grips/Suits or a Video Camera that have higher draws, and should be on a dedicated line to the Battery.

Thanks........

On my bike (which is a 2004 ABS with 14K) I'm not experiencing any problems yet, except for high voltage. My radar detector gives me voltage read out and at times it's over 16.5V.

"The OEM setup is switched via the ignition switch. I simply replicated that by using the sensor wire to trip the relay" Why? Does this wire simply turn the RR on and off? If this black wire was "hot" all the time, would it be impossible to shut the bike off?

I've already installed a swiched aux fuse block, right in the general area of the RR. Can I simply hook up the black wire here? This fuse box turns on and off with the ignition, triggered from my tail light.

This weekend I'm doing the fuse replacement, RR rewire and the Blue connector grounds..........Fun!

[Tightwad]

Well.....I decided to throw another option out for those who are interested.

I found a great 50 amp fuse panel(max for all branches), which just happens to fit under the seat on the 2002+ models...I am sure it would fit about anywhere on other models as well. Here is a picture of it:

And here are two mounting options (with and without relay):

I bought 3 of them, on a whim, but I can get more when I order more harness parts.

As far as cost....for those who are ordering the Harness, there shouldn't be much extra shipping, so just the price of the unit would need added. Without the harness, add $7 for shipping in the USA.

4-fuse panel - $15

8 Flag terminals(wires come out the side for tight fit) - $3.00, for $5(total) I will wire one side ganged together so all share an input

Relay - $6

Wired Relay socket - $4

Relay and socket are only needed if you want a dedicated line to the battery. For those running my harness, the accessory wire will power them(or would power a relay). Max amperage suggested is 10 amps if power is obtained directly my harness, 15 amps is the max per line suggested by the manufacturer.

For those not running my harness, tapping into the taillight to switch the relay is a fairly easy option.

I do NOT have these yet(other than the 3 I ordered to see them), but if enough people want them(more than 5 or so) I will add them(and the relays and bits) to my next order. I will also post a seperate thread about them, but since I am offering to ship these with the harness(and because they fit in so well) I wanted to put them here. I have ordered them now.

Edited August 17, 2007 by Tightwad

[Tightwad]

Ok, the question has come up a couple times from those who already placed orders, and wanted to add the fuse panel, so I thought I would answer it here(my PM box is almost full):

For $35 additional to the harness(so $75 + shipping) I will include:

a wired relay(connected to the accessory wire on the harness)

fuse panel with inputs ganged together, and wired to the relay

12 gauge wire for connection to battery, with ring terminal

ground wire with ring terminal from relay

All you would need to do is hook the positive wire from your accessories to the flag terminal(included) then the flag terminal to the fuse panel, and install the fuse for it. You would ground your accessory wherever you liked.

I am going to order fuse panels and relays etc based on initial responce. To those who want to add this to their exisiting VFRness order, just let me know. There will be a slight shipping delay (4-5 days) as I will have to wait for these to arrive(other than the 2 extra I have now, which are spoken for already).

[Tightwad]

I have made a pictorial for those who wish to install theirs..you can see it here:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=35526

Here is picture of the finished product, relay is tucked behind the panel and works great!

[Tightwad]

For those who are interested, here are the installation instructions for the VFRness. It also includes an explanation of why the problems exist, and how the VFRness helps.

Thank you for your purchase of the “VFRness”…the ultimate fix for many of the charging system problems inherent to your VFR. This guide consists of 3 parts. The first part is an overview of the common charging system problems. The second is the history and construction of the VFRness. The third part is the installation instructions...made so easy even your significant other could install them.

Common Charging system problems:

The VFR is notorious for having a weak charging system. Honda many times has tried to compensate by making the Stator more powerful, adding cooling fins to the R/R, moving the R/R, and making the R/R self adjusting. Each “fix” brought with it new problems, and sometimes didn’t fix the old. The most common problem is…..HEAT. Heat is a killer for electrical systems, but it is rarely the problem by itself. Overheating is generally an indication that there is a problem SOMEWHERE ELSE. Typically heat occurs when the path the electricity is taking is too small for the current flowing.

Current paths and their impact:

The VFR has a couple weak links when it comes to current paths. One of them is the use of wires of too small a size. The second is switches/crimp connectors that build resistance over time. Both of these problems work together to cause many of the symptoms VFR owners are familiar with. Many riders are aware of the 30 amp fuse problem. That one is easy to see….Red wire w/white stripe leading into the fuse holder starts getting brown and nasty looking, and loses its flexibility. Easy fix you say? Sure, replace the 14-16 gauge wire with 10-12 gauge wire. But did this fix it? NO, it doesn’t. It simply moves it. This 14-16 gauge wire is actually working as an indicator of the real problem….wiring that isn’t big enough or connected well enough (and NOT the 30 amp fuse wire). Don’t get me wrong, when this wire turns brown/black, it needs to be replaced, but it isn’t the problem. Lets look at a hypothetical situation….

Pretend you have a water source that can provide a large flow rate…AND has a booster pump to increase the pressure if needed. As long as you have the valve from this source open a moderate amount, and the hose is free of restrictions, you get a simple in and out process. Now pretend you kink the hose a bit. This reduces the flow of the water(and builds the pressure some). As the pressure builds, the hose flexes a little, but it is designed to handle some stress. But look at the water output? It simply isn’t big enough….the solution…turn up the pressure…right? Ok, so we increase the pressure…water comes out of the hose faster, filling our bucket as we need….but this increased pressure is stressing the hose even more, making the kink a bit tighter. The more water we try to get, and the more we increase the pressure, the worse the kink gets. The hose can handle the pressure, but the booster pump is having to work overtime to get the needed flow rate. In some cases the kinks may be so bad that even at max pressure flow is reduced to lower than what is needed.

This is what is happening with the wiring on your VFR….”kinks” are forming…they don’t affect most systems, just those with the highest pressure demands. In our previous example, if we un-kink the hose, we could reduce the pressure needs on the pump, and the system would flow the needed water without stress. Un-kinking the wires is one thing the VFRness does. Simply un-kinking the 30 amp fuse may not be enough, we need to relieve the stress in other areas as well. This allows the full potential from the charging system to reach it’s goal, the battery.

The second weak link, which is restricted to the variable R/R units used from 2000 and on is the sensor wire. This wires one and only job is to read the battery voltage, and report it to the R/R. The R/R uses this input to decided how much juice to produce. Back to a water example…

We have a big plastic tank we are trying to keep topped up. The tank has various drains in it that may or may not be open, so we have a float-level indicator that lets us know when the tank is low…this triggers the booster pump to up the pressure and provide more water. But what if the float gets stuck or fills with water and reports a lower level that we have? Well, the booster pump ups the flow, and the tank gets filled…then overfilled…this is bad for the tank as it is only rated or designed to take so much pressure…and the booster can push well above this limit. Meanwhile the float keeps indicating the tank isn’t even full.

The sensor wire on the VFR gets “stuck”. It reads battery voltage alright..but through the ignition switch, which has a kink in it. Where it should be reading 13.5-14.5 volts, it only sees 11.5-12 volts. As a good worker it reports this number to the R/R(booster), and the R/R ups the power to try and fill the tank(battery)….but the battery is full already. Overcharging the battery shortens the life tremendously. But when it goes bad, what is the answer? Replace the battery. The new battery seems to have solved the problems, but in reality it is just a cover for the real problem, which is bad wiring from the sensor wire to the battery. The R/R overcharging also pushes more power through the small wire on the 30 amp fuse, further making that symptom evident. On 2000+ models the VFRness fixes the sensor wire so it can report the correct voltage. This also appears to have been fix in the 2006+ model wiring harness.

History and Construction of the VFRness:

My background is heavily in autorepair, with hobbies in small electronics. I enjoy inventing, soldering, and being a geek. The VFRness came to life not because I had a problem(which I did and didn’t realize) but because I was seeing others have problems. I could see from the many questions asked in the topics dedicated to helping people resolve their Charging System problems that there were many who didn’t feel comfortable taking on these repairs themselves. In some cases they would do the bare minimum our of necessity, in others they had Honda replace their whole harness to fix the problem. Worst of all, some were replacing the symptomatic parts more than once, and never solving the real problem.

As I started looking at solutions, I figured I should look at the charging system on my bike, just to see. I connected my volt meter to the battery, and knew I had a problem….15.8 volts at 5K rpm…this was almost 1.5 volts too high…and then it spiked to 16.1 when I turned the high beams on!!! I checked out my 30 amp fuse wire….sure enough it was starting to turn colors and get stiff. I changed the wire, knowing this was a symptom not a cure, then a hunted for the real problem. When I connected my meter to the sensor wire, I got 11.8 volts…meanwhile the bike was running at 15.8 volts. I checked the wiring diagram to be sure there wasn’t something designed to make the reading low on purpose….nothing. As a test I jumpered a wire from the positive terminal to the sensor wire…bingo, volts dropped to 14.35 and I had the answer.

As I was about to leave on a trip, I simply made that connection more permanent so it would last. I also relayed the connection so it wouldn’t be on when the bike wasn’t. As I rode the 650 miles to Albuquerque, NM, I thought about a solution. When I returned I had the key…I would find the connector Honda uses, and make an intermediate harness that would not replace the existing wires, but simply augment them. Most importantly, it would do it with no cutting, soldering, crimping or special tools needed. I didn’t need this wire myself, I am comfortable wiring button hook connections etc. but I knew I needed a design that would work for anyone.

The first VFRness probably took me 6 hours to make. Careful measuring, wire path design, and working with the OEM setup were all part of this. I also needed BIG wire…because the VFRness would never skimp. I used 8 gauge where 12 would do, 12 where 14 would do, and 14 where 18 would do. I crimped AND soldered every connection, and used battery terminal rings that were over-rated by about 10 times. I realized the one thing the original sensor wire COULD do correctly was trigger a relay, so I used it for that.

The final result was a harness nearly 4.5 feet long, designed to run from the R/R on the right-front of the bike, under the tank along the fuel lines, behind the battery to the fuse area, and back to the positive terminal for connection. The ground connection is designed to bolt to the R/R(short wires are better than long). Each VFRness is handmade and takes about 2 hours to construct.

Installation of the VFRness on 2002+ models:

Overview:

Installing the VFRness is as easy as it could be. You will need the following tools:

Allen wrench for body panels

Small 8mm socket on extension(or a nutdriver) for the tank and the R/R bolt(just one)

10 mm socket or wrench for the battery

Small piece of wood or similar to prop the tank up (or a loving someone to hold it)

The following items must be removed:

8 Allen head bolts and 3 panel clips to remove the body panel (there are 3 different bolts, keep them separate)

2 more clips on the battery cover

2 bolts on the battery(always start and end with the ground wire)

2 bolts at the front of the tank

Prepping the bike:

1. Remove the seat and set aside

2. Remove the battery cover by pulling on the 2 black plastic nubs and set aside

3. Remove the ground cable bolt(right side) from the battery using the 10mm socket. Watch to be sure the nut in the battery terminal doesn’t fall somewhere. Flex the negative cable aside, so it is out of the way.

4. Remove the positive cable bolt(watch the nut again)

5. Remove the rubber strap from the top of the battery and set aside

6. Remove the battery from the tray and set aside

7. Replace the 30 amp fuse in the main holder with the 15 amp version in the little bag supplied with your VFRness.

8. Remove the two 8mm bolts from the top of the tank, near the handlebars. Set these somewhere safe.

9. Remove the two trim clips under the fairing, and the 1 trim clip in the black panel behind the front wheel near the top of the panel. These are best removed by using a small screwdriver or key to push in the center about ¼”, then pull the trim clips out. Set these aside with the tank bolts.

10. Remove the 2 Allen head bolts from the top of the right fairing panel, remove the 4 from the side of the panel, and the 2 from the front (in the black part behind the front wheel). Note which length and style of bolt came from which hole. Two of them have a shoulder on them. Two others are slightly shorter(from the black part behind the wheel). The other 4 are the same, and connect the fairing to the top/from fairing.

11. Carefully pull the panel back and out from the bike. There is tab on the front fairing that catches the panel…slight pressure will disengage it.

12. Locate the R/R. It has fins, and is bolted above the radiator on the right side (under the panel we just removed). Remove the 8mm bolt at the back of the R/R…we will be putting a wire under here.

13. Follow the wires from the R/R to the plastic connector. This is usually located inside a clear rubber boot.

14. Push the rubber boot away from the connector, and disconnect the connector by push down on the locking tab while pulling them apart.

15. Lift the tank(it hinges at the back, neat huh?), and prop it with a small board, pole, etc.

Installing the VFRness:

1. Lay out the VFRness. Note the end with the connectors that look like the R/R connector. Check to be sure they match the connections on the bike. There is a male and a female connector, they only fit one way.

2. Starting with the fuse end of the VFRness, feed it along the top of the radiator hose to the inside of the frame of the bike. Reach down from the top, and pull the harness up along the frame until it is level with the top of the frame.

3. Following the thick fuel lines, route the harness towards the left side, and a little bit towards the back of the bike.

4. From the left side of the bike, continue pulling the harness until most of the length is out the left side.

5. The fuse end must end up with the other fuses, so routing it under the black subframe behind the battery is the best way.

6. Carefully thread the fuse end along bottom of the subframe until the fuse can come out the subframe near the other fuses.

7. Be sure the VFRness is rotated such that the positive connection, 10 inches from the fuse, comes out near the positive cable. It should reach out about 4.5 inches, enough to bolt to the battery but not have excess in the way.

8. Reinstall the battery in its tray, and test that the positive cables both reach the battery terminal. Go ahead and bolt it down now, main cable on the bottom, VFRness cable on top.

9. Reinstall the rubber strap, but do NOT install the negative cable at this time.

10. Once all lengths have been confirmed, and it fits, use the supplied zip ties to hold the VFRness to the fuel lines….this keeps it from moving around and chafing.

11. Lower the tank, and reinstall the bolts.

12. On the right side of the bike, connect the R/R connectors to the VFRness connectors.

13. Reinstall the R/R bolt, with the ground loop under it and tighten.

14. Carefully tuck the Relay and wires against the frame. There isn’t a particular place they need to be, just close enough that they won’t interfere with the body panel.

15. Reinstall the negative cable(but not the battery cover yet)

Testing:

1. First test the battery voltage with the bike off. It should be 12.5-13.2. If it is lower, charge your battery before testing.

2. Disconnect the accessory plug, and test the voltage at the female terminal. It should match battery voltage.

3. Start the bike, and retest the voltage, you should have around 13.5-14.5 at idle.

4. Increase the RPM to 5,000 RPM, and test at 5,000 RPM. You should have 14.3-14.5 volts.

5. Retest the voltage at the female accessory terminal. It should match charging voltage now.

6. Try different RPMs and various lights on/off….make sure the voltage doesn’t vary widely from 1500-5,000 RPM

Reinstall the battery cover, seat and Right fairing. The secret to installing the plastic clips is to take the center portion out, reinstall the body, then insert the center portion once again.

Assuming you made it this far, congratulation on the installation of your VFRness. You can now rest easier knowing that you have removed the kinks and false readings that have caused so many owners incredible grief and problems. If charging system problems remain please contact me for help.

Joshua Tilton

aka Tightwad

tilton@gmail.com

[Tightwad]

I did more testing tonight on my own bike(small sample size, but the wife won't let me buy more for this...)

With a 15 amp fuse in each, I have no problems. I tried combinations of high beam and various RPMs. Upon removal of the 15 amp fuse in the OEM fuse holder, the other blew as soon as I started it. With a 30 amp in just my harness it was also ok. Rosscob, the only person to have installed one that I am aware of, has the fuse blowing problem.

I can't at this time say it is a problem, but I would suggest watching for it. Worst case you run a 30 amp in just my harness, and you remove the fuse from the OEM harness. Everything then functions as before, with my much improved fuse holder handling the whole load easily.

By no means do you want to use JUST the OEM wire after installing my harness on any 2000+ models. This will cause certain overcharging as the R/R reads the battery as completely drained, and does it's best to fill it.....at 16+ volts. Always fuse my harness!

Production is now continuing. I have changed to a purple wire on newer harnesses for the trigger wire to the R/R. This should keep any confusion away when it comes to crimping/soldering. I have made some changes to the Additional Fuse Panel as well, the only crimped connection there is on the flag terminals, which can't be both soldered and covered. They are however heat-shrunk to help avoid an issues.

I am also coming along on a website. This is slow as I am not good at that, but soon I will offer all my choices there. I may also speak with others who have items they produce for the VFR about putting them on a common page....this would make it easier for everyone to find I think.

[Tightwad]

I have never shipped anything to Spain before, so I will look into the costs of doing so.

As far as differences, here is what I have found:

1990?-1997 had a 6 wire plug, 3 yellow, 1 red, 1 green, 1 blank. This is different from the 6 wire plug of future Honda use. The bottom center portion is blanked out in the shape of a T, and helps center the plug(I imagine). Problems here are Temp and Insufficient wire size. Some didn't even have cooling fins! All are too small to spread the temp load. R/R is located on the RH Rear, under the tail.

1998-1999 had two plugs, a 4-wire and 3 wire. 4 Wire was 2 Red, 2 Green. 3 Wire is the yellow Stator wires. Biggest problems here are temp related, plus some with insufficient wire size. Also too small to spread the temp load. R/R is located LH Rear, under the tail.

2000-2001 has 6 wire and 3 wire plugs. 6 wire plug has 2 Red, 2 Green, 1 Black/white. 3 Wire is Stator Yellow. This is the same R/R as 2002+ models, but under the tail as with 1990-1999. Still heat associated problems, although not as bad. The Sensor wire is also an issue, and causes overcharging because it senses a voltage drop in the ignition switch. R/R still located RH Rear, under the tail.

2002-2007 has 6 wire and 3 wire plugs. 6 wire plug is the same as the 2000-2001 model, but the 3 wire plug is updated (not upgraded, still crap). R/R is located under the front right fairing. Cooling is no longer a problem, but the Sensor wire still is, as is general wire size not being suffecient. This is usually evident in the 30 amp fuse wire burning up and batteries dying prematurely.

[Tightwad]

The 2000-2001 models below are initial trial fits. Split Loom tubing is sent seperate for a more custom fit, along with 8 zip ties(instead of 4). All models include 2 20 amp fuses.

2000-2001 Model w/Fuse Panel option:

2000-2001 Model w/o Fuse Panel Option:

2002-2007 Model w/o Fuse Panel Option:

*note that the single wire connection is no longer included, as it was causing confusion and isn't very helpful

2002-2007 Model w/Fuse Panel Option:

10 sets will be shipping tomorrow, after which 6 sets remain until I begin taking orders again. Upon verification that the 2000-2001 models will work I will be selling 1998-1999 models. There will be no relayed accessory wire on 1999 and older models, but I will sell a kit for making your own relayed setup, including a Fuse Panel if desired.

[Tightwad]

I am looking into the amp/fuse question. so far one of the Electronic technicians that i work with seems to think that you could put two 30 amp fuses in and not have issues. Theoretically a 31amp spark would kill 1 fuse then kill the remaining fuse. The major issue is latency and how long the over amped condition is allowed to remain before both fuses blow to protect the system. I will try to test this on something tangible and less expensive than my bike. I think that a car amplifier should do the trick. Most car amplifiers have multiple fuses on their chassis but this is because there are multiple internal channels and discreet amplifiers inside of the housing. These chassis fuses make this an easy test without risking the amp. give me a couple of days and i will post back. now for some ear plugs...

2-20 amp fuses is my current recommendation. This should in no way overload the circuit. If this doesn't work, 30 amps in just my harness will also work.

I am interested in the results of your test, so please share.

[Tightwad]

I have updated the first post to clean it up a bit. I have also ordered the plugs to make 50 more 2000+ models.

I have worked with Ricks Motorsport Electrics for a fix for the 1990-1997 models. He has offered a great R/R that I can wire for a direct fit for these bikes! It has a larger size(I think) than stock, so it may require a relocation to work best.

As of this time, estimated cost is $120. This includes:

Brand new R/R

Wiring to battery and ground all soldered

Wiring/Connection for R/R to stator plug

1 year Warranty through me, back to Ricks.

This same R/R would theoretically work for any year, although personally I prefer the 2000+ models with the sensor wire (when they work correctly)

[Tightwad]

This message is going out to all 2003 VFRness purchasers:

I have been made aware of a wiring difference in the 2003 model bikes, but may extend farther. Apparently, in this year at least, the sensor wire is NOT a switched wire.

Q: How do I know know if mine is?

A: Test the accessory wire of your VFRness for power with the key off. If it has power, your sensor wire is live all the time.

Q: What does this mean?

A: This means your bike could have a power drain all the time from the relay and anything connected to it. This is counter-productive to what the VFRness was designed to do.

Q: Can it be fixed?

A: Yes, it is fixable. I am currently looking at different options. The best option is to replace the sensor input wire with a true switched source. Options for finding a switched source are being weighed currently. The tail-lights are a common source, and are easy to access, but aren't close to the VFRness. I prefer something closer if I can find it.

Q: When you find a fix, what will it cost to fix it?

A: It won't cost YOU anything. I promised a fix for the VFR problem, and if at all possible that is what I will deliver. I will be sending out a replacement wire, with instructions for installation as well. The only delay is in finding the best placement for the wire.

I would love to have other model years check theirs...so far no 2002 user has reported a live sensor wire.

[Tightwad]

According to the PDF manual, 2002-2007 are all switched. According to a 2003 manual, the wire is connected to the Red wires from the R/R. This was also seen in the harness Ken took apart, and I seem to recall some discussion then about why it didn't show in the wiring diagram.

What I am trying to determine is:

What years are wired live?

Is it ABS specific?

How can we know without testing everyones bike which way theirs is wired?

Why did BYU lose to Tulsa? (this one is not VFR related, but still important to me)

[Tightwad]

I had the opportunity tonight to have a 2002 non-ABS version in my Garage. We found that the sensor wire is non-switched...as it seems to be for all non-ABS. Maybe this is the deciding factor?

On the plus side, I also found a nice close switched wire....the ignition switch wires run right past the R/R plug. This means the tail-light won't be needed, just 6" of wire with a T-tap on it.

As a bit of a poll from my customer base....which would you prefer:

#1. Sensor wire from Harness to Relay has a disconnect spade terminal. Extra wire is included with a matching spade...if your sensor wire isn't switched then you disconnect the spade terminal, and tap into the ignition wire with the spare wire.

#2. Spare wire with Relay end, you remove the sensor wire terminal from the relay(using small screwdriver) and replace it with the terminal for the extra wire, and tap into the ignition switch wire with the T-tap.

#3. Leave the sensor wire out of it altogether, and just get that source for the relay from the ignition wire, using the aforementioned T-tap.

[Tightwad]

I should have the 1998-1999 model ironed out this weekend....The bike is coming up from Houston for the work!!!

For the 2003, the place to check is the black/white wire in the R/R harness. Test it for voltage with the key off. If you find no voltage, then it is switched.

I am considering changing all kits to eliminate that wire, and use the switched source from the ignition instead. This will keep it simpler on my end, and reduce the possibility of someone getting a harness that won't work correctly.

I will have a replacement R/R option by this weekend as well, fully wired to plug directly to the bike. It is a 40 amp R/R, so it will work with any VFR model from at least 1990 up.

I want to give a big thanks to those who have allowed me to play with their bikes thus far, it has been a pleasure to meet you, and also your bikes.

[mechdziner714]

I just noticed last weekend that my tripometer & clock reset themselves. I may need this sooner than later. I'm gonna put a multimeter on to get some #'s, do I check the voltage at the battery terminals @ idle and at 5K. I'm a bit slow when it comes to lectric stuff.