Jump to content

Electrical Fuse Block Install Question


RingO_89

Recommended Posts

  • Member Contributer

Okay, time to query the vast knowledge of all VFRD members!!! I need to see if I might have made an error when installing my fuse block or is I am just paranoid.

The bike is a 2004 VFR with ABS.

Here is what I did:

Installed a Centec AP-1 Fuse Block, which is hard wired to the batter via a relay and inline fuse. The relay is also spliced into the pos/neg wires of the license plate light and provides the power to the fuse block. When I first attached the positive cable to the battery, stupid me used a unproted socket and hit the gas tank, which blew the 30 amp in line fuse (replaced fuse).

Installed a Powerlet Steering Head kit for power to my tank bag. This is wired, negative lead to a bolt on the left side of the bike near the radiator, I believe this is one of the main ground points. The positive lead is wired to one of the fuseblock circuits.

Everything is wired up and looks great, will try and get pictures. I double checked all cables to make sure positive was to positive and negative to negative.

Next I turned over the key and to my amazement everything came on, all the lights, even the license plate light, no sparks or flames so far.....

I then turn the key over and this is where I become concerned. When I start the bike, with the seat off, I hear what sounds like a pop right before the bike kicks over. Is this pop sound normal, I cannot recall if it was there before. The bike starts right up and runs fine. The fuseblock is functioning, I have power to my tank bag. Any thoughts, ideas. I am getting ready for a five day ride and do not want issues on the road.....

Thanks,

RingO :pissed:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I start the bike, with the seat off, I hear what sounds like a pop right before the bike kicks over.

Hard to make a diagnosis via the Interdweeb - what kind of "pop" is it? etc etc.

Sounds to me like the starter relay, but whether it's normal or not depends on whether it's a normal "pop" or abnormal "pop"... :joystick:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
Okay, time to query the vast knowledge of all VFRD members!!! I need to see if I might have made an error when installing my fuse block or is I am just paranoid.

The bike is a 2004 VFR with ABS.

Here is what I did:

Installed a Centec AP-1 Fuse Block, which is hard wired to the batter via a relay and inline fuse. The relay is also spliced into the pos/neg wires of the license plate light and provides the power to the fuse block. When I first attached the positive cable to the battery, stupid me used a unproted socket and hit the gas tank, which blew the 30 amp in line fuse (replaced fuse).

I then turn the key over and this is where I become concerned. When I start the bike, with the seat off, I hear what sounds like a pop right before the bike kicks over. Is this pop sound normal, I cannot recall if it was there before. The bike starts right up and runs fine. The fuseblock is functioning, I have power to my tank bag. Any thoughts, ideas. I am getting ready for a five day ride and do not want issues on the road.....

Thanks,

RingO :pissed:

Is it the new relay you installed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, sounds like the starter relay.

To make sure, disconnect the relay that you wired in for the fuse box and then try starting the bike again. Does it make the same popping sound?

So far it sounds like you wired up your new fuse box correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest superfastwannabe

The starter relay is the big mama-jama right behind the battery. A pop or clack sound is normal. I think I can even feel a tap in my groin when I start the bike while seated on it. Everything sounds normal to me.

Just so you get use to it as well, leave the seat off and listen for your new relay when you turn the key. Put the engine kill switch to off so the fuel pump doesn't drowned it out.

Sounds likes a pretty slick install. Cool job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with Darth, whenever troubleshooting something new always go back to anything you recently did...

When I installed my Centech, I ran my accessory ground wires back to the Centech, but I'm no electrical guru so I don't know if that's contributing... doubt it. I've had mine installed and operating several different gadgets for almost 2 years now with no problems...

Enjoy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is a little off subject, but what does the additional relay do normally, the 30A fuse is inline with the battery/starter relay. besides supplying power for accessories, i cant imagine what it does. if you explained it in your post, sorry...i didn't understand.

as everyone else said, starter relay click or else the new relay clack..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is a little off subject, but what does the additional relay do normally, the 30A fuse is inline with the battery/starter relay. besides supplying power for accessories, i cant imagine what it does. if you explained it in your post, sorry...i didn't understand.

Since he has the fuse box wired directly to the battery, so needs a way to cut power to the fuse box when the bike is off. Otherwise, if he accidently left one of his new accessories on (or in my case, your heated grips), you'll kill the battery. By wiring in a relay that closes when the license plate goes hot will prevent that. I've go a similar set up on mine, but my relay is wired in parallel with the bank angle sensor.

Did I answer the question?? :pissed: :salesman:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this is a little off subject, but what does the additional relay do normally, the 30A fuse is inline with the battery/starter relay. besides supplying power for accessories, i cant imagine what it does. if you explained it in your post, sorry...i didn't understand.

Since he has the fuse box wired directly to the battery, so needs a way to cut power to the fuse box when the bike is off. Otherwise, if he accidently left one of his new accessories on (or in my case, your heated grips), you'll kill the battery. By wiring in a relay that closes when the license plate goes hot will prevent that. I've go a similar set up on mine, but my relay is wired in parallel with the bank angle sensor.

Did I answer the question?? :pissed: :salesman:

yep! thanks...assumed as much, but you know about those A$$umptions!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Member Contributer
Yup, sounds like the starter relay.

To make sure, disconnect the relay that you wired in for the fuse box and then try starting the bike again. Does it make the same popping sound?

So far it sounds like you wired up your new fuse box correctly.

Darth, thanks for the advice, I will try this when I get home tonight.

RingO

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy.